Jump to content
IGNORED

I need to change out my bad Stator


Recommended Posts

I have looked at both the Buckeye HO stator & regulator/rectifier and the offering from Ricks Motorsport Electrics. Buckeye comes in at just under $500 for both and Ricks Motorsports is $159 for the stator plus about $150 for a Shindengen FH020AA The Super Mosfet Kit from This seller . SO, my question is , is the offering from Buckeye worth the extra $200 ? From what I can tell, the only difference is the R/R from Buckeye is a hard wire unit where the Shindengen is a plug type unit. AND do I/ should I use the super mosfet kit that runs power from the battery direct?

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

There was a group buy of the Shindengen Mosfet R/R done by Dingy quite a while ago. Unfortunately I can't remember which model it was. I bought two of them and put one on the 90 VR and one on the Virago. They have both worked without any problems for years. I have also installed 2 HO stators from Rick's, one on the 90 four years ago and one on the 89 about three months ago. They also have never had any problems.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

​Well, I got the stator out today and it was visibly toasted. It did not come out without a fight though, 1 stator screw head stripped out even though I used my impact driver to remove them, so I need to buy new screws these are what I need,is there anything specialabout them that I couldn't just pick some up at a hardware store on bolt supply house ? Sure don't want to wait on some to be shipped to me if I can help it. We have a week of nice weather coming up and I would like to ride not wait for screws.

Link to post
Share on other sites

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161002/1c1b21c0fe4a83e45702093843aa768f.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161002/f15b97221812088c0bdc781f7a75fbb5.jpg

 

Now I just gotta figure out how to get that screw out! Had to cut the head off to remove the stator [emoji22]

 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Link to post
Share on other sites

The screws are loctited in, so a little heat works wonders!! I ended up substituting regular hex head bolts when I put my H.O. stator in, just pick out bolts that have a decent hardness/strength to them, and a dab of some of Jeanie's nail polish on them as well...

 

P.S. Did you use metric JIS screwdriver tips on them?? SAE tips on metric screws will strip the heads every time...

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Now I just gotta figure out how to get that screw out! Had to cut the head off to remove the stator [emoji22]

 

In my opinion the OEM screws are substandard and should be replaced with a harder version. Hex would be better than Phillips. As Bob said, a little heat on the aluminum, not on the bolt and then some WD-40 or Liquid Wrench and a vise grip. Don't force it. If the screw doesn't move the first time, wrap a freezer pack around the bolt while heating the case a second time.
Link to post
Share on other sites
The screws are loctited in, so a little heat works wonders!! I ended up substituting regular hex head bolts when I put my H.O. stator in, just pick out bolts that have a decent hardness/strength to them, and a dab of some of Jeanie's nail polish on them as well...

 

P.S. Did you use metric JIS screwdriver tips on them?? SAE tips on metric screws will strip the heads every time...

JIS in my 35 year old impact driver , ya right. There's no clearance problems using hex head bolts?

 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Link to post
Share on other sites
In my opinion the OEM screws are substandard and should be replaced with a harder version. Hex would be better than Phillips. As Bob said, a little heat on the aluminum, not on the bolt and then some WD-40 or Liquid Wrench and a vise grip. Don't force it. If the screw doesn't move the first time, wrap a freezer pack around the bolt while heating the case a second time.

 

I have some bolts with a 10.9 hardness rating, do you think that would be good or are they going to be too hard and brittle?

Link to post
Share on other sites
Ummmm, should be OK, I think I used some with a Rockwell of 8 but it's been too long. No, to my knowledge no clearance issues, been in the bike since early 2011...

10.2 is equal to a grade 8 . Got it almost back together and I'll find out tomorrow if i have any clearance issues. All in all not too hard a job, just lots to remove to do it.

 

Again, thanks for the stator, I'll do my best to treat it well.

[emoji106]

 

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

Link to post
Share on other sites

The original screws are held in with Loctite. Blue Loctite releases at 275°F and red Loctite releases at 400°F. I believe the factory used red loctite on these screws. In this case it does not matter if you heat the screw and or the cover as long as the threads get to 400°F the screw will come out easy. Do not overheat and melt the cover.

 

When you get your new screws, I could not find screws the correct length so I had to get longer and cut them down. In this case the screw length is important because there is not a lot of room for grip. If the screw is just a bit to long it will bottom out in the hole and feel like it is tight but the stator will still move in operation. If the screws are to short they will not engage enough threads and could strip out under load.

 

I would / did use Loctite to put the new screws in. That is how they were designed to be held in.

Link to post
Share on other sites
The original screws are held in with Loctite. Blue Loctite releases at 275°F and red Loctite releases at 400°F. I believe the factory used red loctite on these screws. In this case it does not matter if you heat the screw and or the cover as long as the threads get to 400°F the screw will come out easy. Do not overheat and melt the cover.

 

When you get your new screws, I could not find screws the correct length so I had to get longer and cut them down. In this case the screw length is important because there is not a lot of room for grip. If the screw is just a bit to long it will bottom out in the hole and feel like it is tight but the stator will still move in operation. If the screws are to short they will not engage enough threads and could strip out under load.

 

I would / did use Loctite to put the new screws in. That is how they were designed to be held in.

@Flyinfool

 

I just happen to have the perfect length screws in my metric collection. I used Red loctite when I installed them, stator is securely installed and there is no interference by the hex head bolts.

,

I do have one strange thing going on now though, with my key off the audio controller is off but the backlit buttons on the controller are lit up. I find no other strange things going on with the bike. :confused24:

 

On 1st run after the new stator I have 13.7 at the battery while running at idle and 14.3 with it reved up.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Ummm, I'm thinking no because when Jay unplugs and replugs the connector on the main harness the problem goes away until he turns on the key which "resets" the backlight to on again. The accessory contacts usually are not the issue, it's the main contacts that supply electricity to the rest of the bike for starting and running. One of the main symptoms of when the ignition switch fails is the bike is completely dead EXCEPT for the radio which still has power and works properly...

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 4 years later...

Ok this thread seams to be close to my question.  I am thinking of replacing my R/R and stator.  I am going to guess the Shindengen Mosfet FH012AA is what guys have found to work best and a High Output Stator from Rick's Electornics.

Fist question is I have done the typical search for the R/R and seen one for $22.99 and one for $129.95 (it is listed as FH020AA and says it Genuine).  So the obvious question is are we looking at two identical parts or not.

The second question is the stator cost.  Again on Ebay you can find one listed for $50.85 or $56.24 with the gasket.  The one on Parts Giant sells for $147.95.  Neither suggests High Output and Earl tells me they stopped making the High Outputs units due to heat build up.

Has anyone tried these lower cost items and if so how did they work out.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...