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Fuel Pump replacement $28 Ebay


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My RSV fuel pump appeared to be failing on my 2009 RSV. This was already a pump that was replaced under warranty a few years ago.

 

I ordered the replacement points set that are noted on this forum.

I paid about $30 from Amazon, also available on Ebay. ( http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.TRS0&_nkw=K%26L+Supply+Universal+Fuel+Pump+Point+Switch+Kit&_sacat=0 )

==sorry, that link may now be bad==

I put them in, but it got worse, would not pump, no rat-tat-tat.

I took the old set and filed off a burr, but same thing.

So, that said some other component in the pump was bad.

 

My friend, Reggie Brewer (also on this form and a fellow STAR rider) had his pump fail and found one on Ebay that looks like the real deal (not Mr Gasket).

AND,, it is about $28 delivered!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/331369030356?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3D331369030356%26_rdc%3D1

And,,,, I see the price is now $21.99 DELIVERED. I will order another for spare.

Here is same pump and vendor on Amazon (who I prefer) http://www.amazon.com/Fuel-YAMAHA-XVZ13-XVZ1300-ROYAL/dp/B00SHUYZBU/ref=pd_sim_sbs_263_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0GE2633P1CMQS74E4SJR&dpID=41-wlYyv2HL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR154%2C160_

 

He said it installed no problems and he has run it a few miles just fine.

I asked if he has to shut off the petcock to prevent gas leak. He said NO, not so far (two weeks).

 

So, I ordered one from same Ebay source. Got it in about 4 days (USPS).

 

I put it in this afternoon. Took some pictures.

I got to admit, YOU MUST PUT HOSES ON THE RIGHT NIPPLES. Else it will just rat-tat-tat-tat-tat=+++++++++++ tat.

 

So, once hooked up correctly, it took a few tries to fill the carbs, then Varoom.

I added pictures. Note the nipple on the black cap. This is not on the stock pump. As I first had the pump on wrong, this should end up pointing towards the ground, and would drain moisture,,, I guess.

Or you could cap it.

The way to get the right hose on the IN port is to get the one that comes UP from the fuel filter (left hose), not the one that goes up. That one goes to the carbs not the tank. Duhhh.

 

 

I ran a dozen miles. Will ride it this week/weekend and see how it goes before a trip.

But, it runs fine and I see no gas leak while leaving the petcock on.

 

I will report back if I have any issues.

 

But, this is a VERY similar pump for 1/10 th of the cost of the OEM pump.

 

Below is the link for the pump. Also will edit and put the link for the points. (but it is easier to swap the pump than the points!)

 

Thanks my friend Reggie for coming across this.

 

(EDITED 10/16/15 = found contacts link went bad, added Amazon link for pump (which I used to buy my spare) MG.

Pump8.JPG

Pump1.JPG

Pump2.JPG

Pump3.JPG

Pump5.JPG

Pump6.JPG

Pump7.JPG

Edited by Mike G in SC
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If you wait till you see a problem it will be too late. Fuel passing through will not be visible as it overflows into the engine internally. It is not something that happens often and is quite rare. A small fleck of scale causes one of the four carbs' needle/float to be held open. If your fuel pump has the internal check valve the gravity flow of fuel from the tank through an open petcock will stop at that pump check valve. If your pump doesn't have the check valve and the petcock is open the fuel will flow through the pump and eventually into the cylinder.

If that happens, when you hit the starter button the engine cranks, the piston comes up, can't compress the liquid fuel, and now you have junk engine. It happens so quick that there is nothing you can do. All of this happens with no external evidence of a problem.

i had this happen but I was so fortunate the cylinder with the fuel happened to have piston already high enough in its stroke the fuel took up all of the space between the top of the piston and cylinder head so it couldn't move. The engine only appeared to be locked up when I pushed the starter button.

A fuel pump with a check valve or turning off the fuel every time you shut off the bike is a WHOLE LOT cheaper than an engine

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I have also sent a request to the vendor on same.

 

Can it be tested by pulling the gas line off the carbs and seeing if drains?

 

Opinion: Is this a cheap Chinese knockoff? At under $30, YES it is. But will see if it serves me.

 

EDIT:

I got a quick turnaround on my question to the seller.

 

Dear ultimatecomponents,

 

The Yamaha OEM (Mitsubishi) fuel pump has a check valve to prevent continued flow when the engine is shut off. Does this pump also have a check valve? (I have installed one today and bought a spare)

- mikeg-in-sc

 

 

Answer: Dear mikeg-in-sc,

 

Thank you for your question. Yes our pump has a check valve.

- ultimatecomponents

 

I also contacted them again to tell them they need to advertise the check valve on their spec page. They replied with thanks and said they will consider adding same. I would be happy to see that as a commitment of verification. I assume what they say is true but would prefer they state this in print.

Edited by Mike G in SC
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Got same answer....so guess it does have the check valve...

 

 

Should have asked them what the side bib was for while you were at it..... :-)

I ordered one of them a year or so ago..OK maybe 2... and when it arrived the fuel bibs were too big to get hose on without

really stretching the ends. So I didn't go any further. It's still in the stash somewhere... Maybe the newer style has the proper sized bibs??

Back to the side bib. Maybe it's to power the pump by vacuum instead of electrically?? I don't think it's a moisture drain.. Just a WAS here..

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Should have asked them what the side bib was for while you were at it..... :-)

I ordered one of them a year or so ago..OK maybe 2... and when it arrived the fuel bibs were too big to get hose on without

really stretching the ends. So I didn't go any further. It's still in the stash somewhere... Maybe the newer style has the proper sized bibs??

Back to the side bib. Maybe it's to power the pump by vacuum instead of electrically?? I don't think it's a moisture drain.. Just a WAS here..

 

 

 

Just did. Good idea! We shall see...

david

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Condor,

The hose fittings are exactly like the OEM. No problem putting the hoses on the new one and moving the clamps in position.

In fact they fit so good, you can switch them if you want.

Rode briefly today again, just fine. But for $22, I will pack the spare in my tool saddle bag,, with my air pump, jumpers and tire repair kit and flux capacitor.

 

The plastic nipple on the cap can also be used as a whistle if the pump breaks down and leaves you stranded.

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Latest:

 

"The side bib on the bottom is used to exhaust the heat from pump inside, which will make pump more stable than old version.But you needn't care it.If you have any other questions,Pls feel free to advise."

 

So it appears to be a benign bib. A cooling vent.

 

Should make a good spare pump to carry on road trip...

 

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Okay, So this pump exactly fits where the old one was, requires no modifications or additional parts. Has same electrical connection.

The vendor claims it has a check valve to prevent flow when no power. And has a heat vent for the contact side. Has the word IN printed on one bib (for me to still get wrong)

And is working in my bike and a friends. And is on Ebay or Amazon for $22 delivered. (Truly cheap enough to carry as a spare.)

 

Other than that, I will let you know if I have a problem with it. And thanks to my friend Reggie who found it.

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