Geobob Posted June 1, 2019 Share #26 Posted June 1, 2019 I pulled the RLU unit and crossed all the wires as suggested in the photos and now when I turn on the high beam the white light on the dash comes on. Anyone have an idea what would cause this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted June 1, 2019 Share #27 Posted June 1, 2019 Back when all those writeups were done it was not known that there was a error in the printed wiring diagrams. this results in the blue hi beam and the white headlight action being reversed. If you still have it apart the easiest fix is to just switch the bulb sockets between the blue and white locations on the back of the dash. I will have to look up which wires to switch at the RLU connector to make the switch. I think that info is in one of the how to threads. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
videoarizona Posted June 2, 2019 Share #28 Posted June 2, 2019 There is a complete thread on the jumpering of the RLU somewhere here. I'm on road and didn't find it but know it's there. Tons of pics as well... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonm. Posted June 8, 2019 Share #29 Posted June 8, 2019 (edited) The title says (RSU) that was a typo I should have put (RLU) Other posts covered this but a picture says 1000 words. To bypass the RLU on the my 1988 Venture Royale I unplugged the wires and soldered them together as shown in the picture. This will give you a functioning low/high beam and will also push power to the High Beam indicator when you have High beams on. The extra wire left on the plug would goto the Headlight Out indicator on the dash and is no longer needed. As the best indicator of a burn out headlight it lack of illumination on the road. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=101742 Tie Together the Green/White + Blue/Black + Blue/White Tie Together Yellow/Green + Blue/Red Tie Together Black + LightGreen This will allow the High Beam light to work and let the light dimmer on the handle bar change from between Hi and Low Beam The Yellow wire if for the White Head Lamp Out Indicator and is no longer useful. Got my LED from superbrights. I rewired RLU wires because the load resistor causes a slight pulse at idle and requires 2000 rpm to get full brightness. SAD TO SAY -- bypass of RLU not working for my '87 Royale. FYI- there is no green/white...it's green/red shown stated later post. Did exactly as described. My warning indicator still pop up for headlamp. I have 30+ years working on electronics stuff... I guess- will put it back to stock and use load resistor. Edited June 8, 2019 by jasonm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted June 9, 2019 Share #30 Posted June 9, 2019 The RLU has nothing to do with the headlight warning on the dash. To fix that you have to jumper the 2 headlight reed switches on the back of the dash display. There are 4 total reed switches on the back of the display, if you are doing a full LED conversion you will want to jumper all four of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowpuc Posted June 9, 2019 Share #31 Posted June 9, 2019 The RLU has nothing to do with the headlight warning on the dash. To fix that you have to jumper the 2 headlight reed switches on the back of the dash display. There are 4 total reed switches on the back of the display, if you are doing a full LED conversion you will want to jumper all four of them. Schooled again by the lop eared Wisconsin White Washer inventor varmint!! Didnt have a clue about how/what/where/when reed switchin involved but NOW I at least got a clue (took a peek at this: https://www.explainthatstuff.com/howreedswitcheswork.html = VERY interesting read IMHO!!) = THANKS FOR THE INSPIRATION @Flyinfool !!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonm. Posted June 10, 2019 Share #32 Posted June 10, 2019 (edited) The RLU has nothing to do with the headlight warning on the dash. To fix that you have to jumper the 2 headlight reed switches on the back of the dash display. There are 4 total reed switches on the back of the display, if you are doing a full LED conversion you will want to jumper all four of them. Because I wired my 4 LED driving lights to the head light harness 2- 10w to low(20 watts) beam power wire ,& 2-10w to high(20 watts)... ..I never got headlamp out. Just the warning "headlamp issue red led indicator" + LCD symbol. You say jumper the reed switches. " Eliminate by shorting so they never open ? Reed switches where ever they exist ...wish I knew. I have spare instrument panel. Hope the reed switch is easy to find there? Edited June 10, 2019 by jasonm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted June 10, 2019 Share #33 Posted June 10, 2019 OK @cowpuc, back to school again. WARNING - Educational material to follow.......... What a reed switch is. It is a coil of wire wound around a glass tube (the reed switch) that has a wire sticking out of each end. The way it works is that the power to the light bulb flows thru the coil of wire. When power flows thru the wire it creates a magnetic field, think electromagnet. Inside of the glass tube are two thin iron strips that are not touching. When they get magnetized by the electromagnet the magnetic force make them attracted to each other and they pull together making a contact. It is this contact that the CMU uses to tell if a bulb is out. If a bulb is out the power will no longer be flowing thru the coil so the magnetic field goes away and the two iron strips are no longer attracted to each other so they separate. So jumping is literally connecting a wire from one end of the reed switch to the other so that the computer always thinks that power is flowing thru the bulbs regardless of whether it is or not. The reed switches are "tuned" to open and close at a specific amp draw. that way with the 2 bulb tail light if one bulb goes out, the amps will be half as much so the switch will still open, even though there is still some power going thru. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
videoarizona Posted June 10, 2019 Share #34 Posted June 10, 2019 Reed switches marked and 2 are jumpered below are the high and low beam for headlight This board is located on the backside of the dash panel. You need to take the headlight/windshield stuff off. Then spread the two side panels. You can then get in there and take off the dash. There are two ways....one takes 4 screws to take out the panel and the frame...or just take out the panel with 2 screws. Put in on bench. Turn it over and look for the black "box" looking thing in the center. Take off the screws and pull it up. Board is there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonm. Posted July 2, 2019 Share #35 Posted July 2, 2019 https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=116634 Reed switches marked and 2 are jumpered below are the high and low beam for headlight https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=116635 https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=116636 This board is located on the backside of the dash panel. You need to take the headlight/windshield stuff off. Then spread the two side panels. You can then get in there and take off the dash. There are two ways....one takes 4 screws to take out the panel and the frame...or just take out the panel with 2 screws. Put in on bench. Turn it over and look for the black "box" looking thing in the center. Take off the screws and pull it up. Board is there. https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=116637 I have done the wire jumpers. Works great . The pics etc were helpful. But why did you remove the instruments the "hard way" ? Yamaha made this bike easy to service. I got my instruments out in less than 10 minutes. (1) remove windshield, (2) remove headlight, then LOOK there are 2 bolts, 1 left and 1 right of the wiring cluster and instruments. Any size hands can do this. Just need a 1/4" drive 10" extension and 10mm socket and a good light. To reinstall put a nut inside the socket to push the bolt out to catch the threads and possibly use a magnet touching socket to steady things. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
videoarizona Posted July 2, 2019 Share #36 Posted July 2, 2019 I have done the wire jumpers. Works great . The pics etc were helpful. But why did you remove the instruments the "hard way" ? Yamaha made this bike easy to service. I got my instruments out in less than 10 minutes. (1) remove windshield, (2) remove headlight, then LOOK there are 2 bolts, 1 left and 1 right of the wiring cluster and instruments. Any size hands can do this. Just need a 1/4" drive 10" extension and 10mm socket and a good light. To reinstall put a nut inside the socket to push the bolt out to catch the threads and possibly use a magnet touching socket to steady things. Cheers I didn't know how to do it...so spread the uppers to get my fat hands in there. Then saw the 2 bolts and chuckled. Yep...easy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now