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Ignitech ignition box is in and C.O.P. conversion done


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MAP sensor 5v - the compelled decision. It is impossible to get rid of pulsations up to the end. It is partially justified for v75 and v80.

The excellent decision-TPS, but for its realization it is necessary to work as hands.

With an original sensor of anything it isn't necessary to do. Everything works.

It was necessary to optimize ignition.

Dingy, it is time for you to throw out from a set of MAP sensor and to add TPS. Or at all not to include sensors in a set, and to add COP ;););)

 

Look at pictures in post #15, this smooths pulses out very well.

 

Gary

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Gary- My Ignitech is doing extremely well. It is as always, the quest for better. I may not get any better than the MAP sensor. And I will make a vacuum tank and try it. And I will try the original sensor. I have 2 of them in good shape. If one fails and fries my Ignitech then you get another sale. I understand the risks.

 

And my MAP sensor is anyplace from 0 to 100% at an idle. That bottom left bar dances all over the place. Putting all 4 cylinders to it helped a bit. I see 0-60-30-80-100-10-20-100. Just looks too sensitive.

Edited by lonestarmedic
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And I like my new advance curve. I think I can tweak just a bit more. I want to play in the 3000-5000 area. Right now I am a solid strong pull. In 5th gear the bike is a steady pull from 2000 on up. At 4000 it comes alive. And at 5000-7000 it is fantastic. I am positive the COP conversion has added a bit.

 

So, Gary your Ignitech box is a 100% winner. It is going to save a lot of bikes from the boneyard. And enhance the capabilities of just as many.

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And I am not sure that a TPS is the answer. The vacuum is a dynamic measurement. The TPS is linear to the throttle. Heck, I may try a TPS in addition.

 

The question at hand is whether you want the advance to be tailored to the throttle position (TPS) or the load (IE: map).

 

There are times when a linear curve to the throttle is not ideal and vice versa for the MAP.

 

The stock TCI uses MAP, as it compensates for the load and is kind of a "poor mans" knock retard, without actually using a knock sensor.

 

With TPS only, you can get into a knock situation in some conditions that could be "lugging" the engine. Neither is good, but lugging combined with knock is very bad.

 

Ideally, you would have a "look up table" that compares RPM, % TPS and BARO (ie: MAP) to determine the ignition advance. So far, all I can see in my V88 is an either/or type deal for TPS or MAP.

 

A knock sensor would also be beneficial as it would pull timing when knock is detected. That, of course, would require more programming and hardware inputs.

 

Alas, it seems the Ignitech is a little bit too "primitive" in it's tables and hardware for any of that good stuff.

 

More digging into the guts of the programming and hardware specs is required, but I'm not overly hopeful that it can be made more than what it already is....:(

 

I've also got lots of personal projects on the go and digging into the ignitech is super low priority for me right now.

 

I "tune" cars/diesel trucks on the side in my spare time and there's no shortage of kids wanting more power. I'm just very careful who I give it to and how much I give them.....:)

Edited by Great White
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Although the ignitech might be primative bu today's modern vehicles it does a great job for why it is designed. Replacent of old ignition and allowing tuning to a great extent.

 

I agree a combination would be great. But, I think on a touring bike where loads vary a MAP would be best. If I was working for horsepower on a bike I would think TPS. My last diesel I tuned was a tractor with stacked turbos. Only went 300 feet at a time.

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I thought the ignitech advanced with rpm (sense off pickup coils) & the vacuum input acts to retard it a tad temporarily if you get on the throttle hard which drops intake vacume until the engine "catches up" & you get some volume going through the intake.. my stock 83 xj has hall effect pickups and a electronic ignition.. no vacume sense. And the dynamic ignition in my old Honda also don't have vacume input. And why we're at this, cars have map, tps, & a mass airflow sensor.. so why/how could a tps be better than a vacume sensor??

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And then so Gary did you design your tps because of problems running with your map? Which one do you like better (& why). & does the ignitech have provisions to run map & tps inputs?? Oh and is the four into one vacume lines with canister really beneficial with the ignitech and map as compared to the stock tci with pressure sensor?

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And gary, is my ignitech programed for auto dwell or need I do it like lonestarmedic? & is my advance curve same as the which lonestar feels he improved? My tci is dead now but when it was working I think my idle was better then I see now with your ignitech. And i dont recall it taking so long to warm up (for intake popping to stop. What should I do?

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Gentlemen the Ignitech as Gary delivers it is very good. My base idle is rock steady at about 1075. It gave me no problems. I am one of those who always tinker to fully understand what I have. And with the adjustability of the Ignetech I can tailor it to my riding style. The module is set to long dwell for the standard Venture coils. Because of my coil on plug conversion I had to change it. And the short setting gave me problems. The auto setting worked. As far as the advance curve goes, I did not make major changes. A few degrees here and there. And idle may be a bit raspier just due to the settings. Base advance on a Venture is 5 degrees. The box is set at 10. Maybe to help with starting the bike. Mine does warm up a bit different also. Less choke to start, but needs a small amount for just a bit longer. With this module, the advance curve is a bit more performance oriented. I think it is probably more like the original designers envisioned. It was then detuned a bit for EPA, customer satisfaction, and other factors.

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Here are 2 short videos showing TP bar graph when running, 1st with canister buffer and 2nd without buffer. I have intentionally set TPS voltage high, so it would be in mid range of graph. All 4 carb ports are tied together.

 

http://vid1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/Ignitech%20with%20buffer_zpsytahkxym.mp4

 

http://vid1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/Ignitech%20without%20buffer_zps5hbfrehv.mp4

 

Gary

Edited by dingy
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And gary, is my ignitech programed for auto dwell or need I do it like lonestarmedic? & is my advance curve same as the which lonestar feels he improved? My tci is dead now but when it was working I think my idle was better then I see now with your ignitech. And i dont recall it taking so long to warm up (for intake popping to stop. What should I do?

 

The auto setting could help. You would need a USB-COM cable to reset it. Link below to cable I use.

 

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/search.asp?keywords=CB-FTDI

 

The popping is likely idle jets plugged, Sea foam a couple of times may help.

 

Gary

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I just found a new item on Ignitech site that might be interesting. It is called a MAP Switch.

 

I sent my contact at Ignitech an email asking about it and if it would work on TCIP4 TCI.

 

http://www.ignitech.cz/en/vyrobky/accessories/map_switch/map_switch.htm

 

Gary

 

Interesting. Seems like the "switchable tunes" we do in OBDII. This would seem to indicate that the Ignitech can hold more than one set of tables at a time. I even looks like it uses the same scheme of grounding a pin to switch curves. seems to be what the black wire would indicate. If that's what it's doing, any 3 pos switch would work.

 

Switching tunes has more of an effect in OBDII vehicles because the switch means different, fuel, ignition, shift tables, etc. I personally prefer to tune for the best all around performance when setting up OBDII vehicles, but there can be some benefit from manipulating only the ignition curves in a vehicle like a bike that only gives you the ability to tune the Ignition.

 

After this winter, my engine will be more VMax than venture, so that's the curve I'm going to start with and tune from there.

 

Gawd, I hate saying "tune" but it's what most guys undersand these days. Say "re-calibrate" and you get that dog tilted head thing as a response.....:rolleyes:

Edited by Great White
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Great white what intake and exhaust on the hot rod vmax venture?

It will be the oem Venture stuff this year.

 

Next year may change. Might get custom exhaust, 1300 carbs and vboost. Only so much money in the pot for this year.

 

It's also getting VMax heads, cams, vmax final drive, a 2002 RSV transmission and a v88 ignitech. Changing luggage boxes to 86 boxes, 86 wiring harness going in to get Venture cruise, CLASS and the later style instrument cluster. Also getting modern brakes and doing away with the linked brakes scheme. There'll be some painting required to match up all the components. Thinking about building a power windscreen too. There's some other little bits of brik-a-brak on the list to be done also. Lots of tuning and recalibrating to be done when it rolls out next spring.

 

I've also got lots of work to do to my fj1200. Most involved will be adapting a venture cruise unit to it and a 17" radial tire conversion. But it also has to come down to the frame and be rebuilt. Nothing really serious, its just a bit beat up and tired. Mostly cosmetic work and fixing the sins of previous owners. Not getting into the engine (FJ engines are solid as a tank) but carbs need complete rebuild, right down to yanking the emulsion tubes. Bike has 144,000 on it.

 

That's enough to do for one winter downtime period.....;)

Edited by Great White
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