Angelo Posted April 1, 2015 Share #1 Posted April 1, 2015 I want to make my bike more visible and not just a little bit. I was thinking LED or HID but I keep reading that on high beam they are not any better than stock or at least not that much better. I want to replace the lights and keep the same look as it has now, in other words, don't want to mount off crash bars as replacements but am thinking about adding additional lights to them. I think those are factory, so whatever light could possibly work inside those housings or be a close replacement for them and then a replacement for the stock headlight. Also, if there are bright but clean install lights to mount lower I'd like to hear (better yet see) what you guys have used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djh3 Posted April 1, 2015 Share #2 Posted April 1, 2015 As for headlight, I have installed an HID. think I gave around $35 or so for it a few years back. For the most part plug and play, although I had to wire in a relay, but not that tough. The passing/fog/driving lights present a bit more of a problem. About all the wattage you can pull is 35w. So bigger bulbs are out of the question. If you go to a halogen type with the smaller H3 type bulbs you have to watch they are 35 w and not 55w. The wiring for these lights is kind of weak, oh and your going to want to make sure they are wired thru a relay instead of the way most get wired from dealer. I bought a used pair of this type light housing, then later installed some CREE LED bulbs (70w equivalent) that I think work very well. Other option is probably the very expensive truck light LED jobs. Some have put the Northern tools LED work lights in, but I wonder how much light they actually put out. Only rated @ 150 lumines Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Du-Rron Posted April 1, 2015 Share #3 Posted April 1, 2015 Modify the headlight bucket and install a JW Speaker lamp. Same maker as Harley uses. here is an article on how to do it. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?498-Headlamp-Replacement Lamp specs shown below. jwspeaker.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djadam Posted April 1, 2015 Share #4 Posted April 1, 2015 Hello, I have a new to me 06 RSV. I bought the passing lamps to put on the bike. The lamps can't be 55w? Is that too much for the bike to handle? If so I think I will buy some Cree L.E.D lamps too. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelo Posted April 1, 2015 Author Share #5 Posted April 1, 2015 As for headlight, I have installed an HID. think I gave around $35 or so for it a few years back. For the most part plug and play, although I had to wire in a relay, but not that tough. The passing/fog/driving lights present a bit more of a problem. About all the wattage you can pull is 35w. So bigger bulbs are out of the question. If you go to a halogen type with the smaller H3 type bulbs you have to watch they are 35 w and not 55w. The wiring for these lights is kind of weak, oh and your going to want to make sure they are wired thru a relay instead of the way most get wired from dealer. I bought a used pair of this type light housing, then later installed some CREE LED bulbs (70w equivalent) that I think work very well. Other option is probably the very expensive truck light LED jobs. Some have put the Northern tools LED work lights in, but I wonder how much light they actually put out. Only rated @ 150 lumines What's the reason for the relay? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted April 1, 2015 Share #6 Posted April 1, 2015 The relay is so that you can have a switch to have the HID off while starting the engine. The HID controllers have a low voltage cutoff built in. If the battery voltage should dip below the cut off it will turn off the HID to protect itself. Once tripped it does not reset when the voltage comes back up once the bike is running. In order get the light to turn back on you have to turn off the engine and restart. Of course this restart can once again drop the voltage momentarily and turn off the HID.... Having a switch that is controlling the HID power wire will allow you to have the HID off while starting. Having the switch operate a relay means that you do not have to have a switch and wiring that can handle 20 amps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oconeedan Posted April 1, 2015 Share #7 Posted April 1, 2015 If you want to keep it simple, the Sylvania Silverstar Ultra bulb is noticeably brighter than a stock headlight bulb, simply swap it. Dan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djh3 Posted April 2, 2015 Share #8 Posted April 2, 2015 Before the HID I had a Wagner BP 1210 Awsome standard type bulb. 80/100w vs the 65/80 or whatever the OEM is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelo Posted April 2, 2015 Author Share #9 Posted April 2, 2015 If you want to keep it simple, the Sylvania Silverstar Ultra bulb is noticeably brighter than a stock headlight bulb, simply swap it. Dan I assume the wattage is low enough for these bikes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oconeedan Posted April 2, 2015 Share #10 Posted April 2, 2015 I assume the wattage is low enough for these bikes. Yes, same as stock bulb. I think 65w on high beam. Nice white light (not blue, not yellow), that is most useful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
syscrusher Posted April 3, 2015 Share #11 Posted April 3, 2015 The relay is so that you can have a switch to have the HID off while starting the engine. The HID controllers have a low voltage cutoff built in. If the battery voltage should dip below the cut off it will turn off the HID to protect itself. Once tripped it does not reset when the voltage comes back up once the bike is running. In order get the light to turn back on you have to turn off the engine and restart. Of course this restart can once again drop the voltage momentarily and turn off the HID.... Having a switch that is controlling the HID power wire will allow you to have the HID off while starting. Having the switch operate a relay means that you do not have to have a switch and wiring that can handle 20 amps. With the HID and ballast setup I have I could just flip to the high beam and then back to restart the HID. I find that it really is a matter of breakover voltage which the ballast will supply on activating the HID. If the HID is already hot it will re-engage with just the 12v supply. My H4 headlight HID has a dimmer 55W halogen for high and the brighter HID is actually the low beam. I highly recommend one like that. IMHO it's too complicated to use for the ditch lights, however. Buy some high output LEDs (800+ lumen) for those and enjoy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VentureFar Posted August 16, 2015 Share #12 Posted August 16, 2015 Just replaced my stock bulb on 07RSV with the PIAA anti vibration super white. Just to start with for any lurkers it took about 10 minutes. - 8 of the ten was fumbling. Turn the bars to the left stick your uncoordinated left hand in and pull off the power connector. Then pull the rubber boot straight off then push the metal retaining clip UP and out of its slot and bulb drops out.reverse the process to install but do not touch the glass of the bulb. The retaining clip slips into a slit and there is just enough spring tension to make it too hard for my left index finger. I remembered I had a foot long bent nose needle nose pliers and popped that sucker back in on the first try. What took the longest was getting the power connector three prongs back in position with one hand. I finally used a long screw driver as a poker/ helper from underneath to help with alignment. Voila. Done. Some time ago I noticed the left right adjustment knob had fallen off so I ordered a new in from Bikerbandit.com i did notice what others have mentioned that the center of the high beam is lower than the center of the low beam. But using a cardboard target I see that the top of the low beam is cut off. Put on the high beam and although the center is a bit lower, the overall beam shoots both above and below its center. VentureFar... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyS-NJ Posted December 4, 2015 Share #13 Posted December 4, 2015 What is the HID and ballest set up that you have? I'm looking to upgrade my OEM headlight on my '84 vxz12D With the HID and ballast setup I have I could just flip to the high beam and then back to restart the HID. I find that it really is a matter of breakover voltage which the ballast will supply on activating the HID. If the HID is already hot it will re-engage with just the 12v supply. My H4 headlight HID has a dimmer 55W halogen for high and the brighter HID is actually the low beam. I highly recommend one like that. IMHO it's too complicated to use for the ditch lights, however. Buy some high output LEDs (800+ lumen) for those and enjoy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyS-NJ Posted December 4, 2015 Share #14 Posted December 4, 2015 Does anyone know if an 80/100 bulb would be too hot for the enclosure on my '84 xvz12 or if it's too much load on the original wiring or system in total?? Before the HID I had a Wagner BP 1210 Awsome standard type bulb. 80/100w vs the 65/80 or whatever the OEM is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djh3 Posted December 4, 2015 Share #15 Posted December 4, 2015 Gary, the load on the small looking wires is what concerned me. They look pretty puny on the RSV 2nd Gen. maybe 16ga. I really liked my 80/100 bulb but the wiring had me concerned so I went HID. Now looking back I think a fellow could wire one of those up and mybe use a relay and be OK. I dont think the "heat" per say would be an issue unless its an all plastic housing/reflector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyS-NJ Posted December 4, 2015 Share #16 Posted December 4, 2015 Yes on a rekay but fhe alternator still needs to supply the power else the battery doesnt charge.. on my '78 honda i think with a 80/100 headlight (nothing melted but the bulb didnt last) & the pair of hids running (70 more watts) i could see my battery not charging with a voltmeter i installed so o would periodically swith the main headlight off to allow the battery to charge. The reflector is glass and will take the heat. The mating 3 prong plug if plastic might not and all the wiring around the enclosure that normally oem lives around a 55w bulb may well get too hot (the wires in the headlight bucket on my '78 survived but that's different than the enclosed venture fairing.. ( maybe better maybe worse).. who is running a hot bulb in their old venture??!!?? I don't mind replacing it especially seeing as I have the aux spots. And maybe that's just temporary for this winter until I get a nice led or hid installed. I just want more light right now.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
syscrusher Posted December 5, 2015 Share #17 Posted December 5, 2015 What is the HID and ballest set up that you have? I'm looking to upgrade my OEM headlight on my '84 vxz12D It's something like this basically, but if I were buying I'd search for a smaller ballast. http://www.amazon.com/Kensun-HID-Xenon-Replacement-Bulbs/dp/B00F3I9HJY/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1449306050&sr=1-6&keywords=h4+hid%2Fhalogen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyS-NJ Posted December 5, 2015 Share #18 Posted December 5, 2015 Thanks syscrusher. Another vote for the hi/low hid installed in place of the halogen bulb. Idk people are doing these painful retrofits to install projector housings into their headlight assys.. crap, last night I bought ebay used xvz12 headlight figuring I'd have to mount a projector in it to aim the projector... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djh3 Posted December 6, 2015 Share #19 Posted December 6, 2015 Try to find something with "slim ballast". Usually a little better quality outfit. Easier to hid also, although on the RSV not a big deal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyS-NJ Posted December 14, 2015 Share #20 Posted December 14, 2015 I'm back. I posted on candle power forums and they felt none of the drop in HID or LEDs were good/legal except the new/expensive Phillips H4 LED ( http://www.xenondepot.com/Philips-12953BWX2-H4-LED-Bulb-Review-s/62.htm). I think for now I will be going with a Philips X-treme Vision halogen bulb and upgrade the headlight harness to one feeding the bulb direct from the battery through a relay. Does anyone know if the convention in these halogen bulbs (and our MK1's) is to keep the low beam on when the high beam is turned on? I'd like that if it doesn't kill anything.. Oh but my pal has an 1986 or 87 headlight for me which must be much better as they have only one defractor on the outside (instead of my 1984 which has the defractor on the headlight and a clear plastic on the outside fairing surface. CPF people said a clear cover can rob 15% of the available light.). perhaps I'll get crazy and do some of my own comparison tests of drop in HID and LEDs. And then test those against a pair of HID projectors (I have a pair of 68mm pods).. Looks like my pair of 68mm pods could be mounted in a MK1 headlight frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sho_greg Posted February 25, 2016 Share #21 Posted February 25, 2016 Not sure how much visibility my lighting change did- but it did make the bike look newer... Did a Adjure Ice headlight and Adjure Ice driving lights.. Adds that sleek look, newer bike look. I will say at night it is probably a much better light.... Just in comparison to the old car lights... Let me see if I have a picture and I will try to post. http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a397/sho_greg/cbb98938-a0d9-4e1f-89cf-89f2a6fdd21b.png http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a397/sho_greg/3e79eb93-1ca9-4126-bb84-06b33e76af45.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIZ Posted February 29, 2016 Share #22 Posted February 29, 2016 I just finished installing Day-Makers on my bike last week. Wow what a difference! The appearance of the bike is much improved and visibility is awesome. The last picture was stock headlight with diamond cut driving lights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyS-NJ Posted March 4, 2016 Share #23 Posted March 4, 2016 That's three daymakers? But you actually mean the jw speaker led headlights? That's lots of money! I was thinking g about the truck light 4x6 led for my '84 then cheaper out and bought a sealed beam which is supposed to be better than oem. Haven't tried it yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WIZ Posted March 5, 2016 Share #24 Posted March 5, 2016 They are all three day- maker lights ordered off of amazon. The total for all three lights was around $155.00, the difference it made is well worth the money since i drive a lot at night. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyS-NJ Posted March 5, 2016 Share #25 Posted March 5, 2016 Jw speaker makes lights for Harley that they call daymaker (sold by harley) and they make/sell same lights without the daymaker/harley label. Their lights are very expensive. Foe that price off Amazon no doubt you got Chinese knockoffs but I didn't think they were that inexpensive.. but if they work, they work.. great deal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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