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The caps may be 'staked' like this:

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=97196 If so, try to remove or mitigate the protrusions that help to hold the cap in the carb body. Then using a punch, drive the float valve seat out. The valve seat should push the cap out as the seat is driven out. The net filter will be squashed, but the new float valve assembly should include a new one.

Here's how to drive the valve seat out:

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=97197https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=97198

 

 

HOw hard do you have to hit the punch to get that float seat out? I've given it a few good taps taps, but it's not budging. On my way to my local shop to pick some brains.

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HOw hard do you have to hit the punch to get that float seat out? I've given it a few good taps taps, but it's not budging. On my way to my local shop to pick some brains.

 

The float valve seat and the "cap" are a friction fit with an O-ring on each. And of course the "stakes" securing the cap. So they (the float valve seat, the net filter and the cap WILL come out with sufficient force). The net filter and the float valve seat will be ruined when using a punch, but you are replacing the seat and filter anyway, right?

 

Some have pressed the float seat and cap out (still squashing the filter) with a vise.

float valve removing pressing out.jpg

 

You ARE trying to remove the float seat from the inside out, correct?

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The float valve seat and the "cap" are a friction fit with an O-ring on each. And of course the "stakes" securing the cap. So they (the float valve seat, the net filter and the cap WILL come out with sufficient force). The net filter and the float valve seat will be ruined when using a punch, but you are replacing the seat and filter anyway, right?

 

Some have pressed the float seat and cap out (still squashing the filter) with a vise.

https://www.venturerider.org/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=119155

 

I like that idea.

 

You ARE trying to remove the float seat from the inside out, correct?

 

Heh. Yeah, from the inside out.

 

I was just at my local shop, and they asked the 'old' tech who started in the 80s (OLD?!?!?) He said he's never had to remove one of those, and recommended some 800grit to clean out the upper throat (NOT touching the bevel seat) I'll try that.

Before I put them back on, I'll rig up a test. to see if the float needle actually seats. It's only one carb giving me grief, and I've ordered the cap and O-ring anyway. It's raining again so I'm not missing any riding anyway

 

Thanks again.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Forgot to update the thread. I resolved the sticking float on that carb, without removing the very tightly pressed in float valve seat. I thought I'd put her all back together and see if it worked. I made up an external rig to see if the float bowls filled and the float shut off the valve. It worked. Nothing running out the float overflow.

Reinstalled the carbs, fought with the throttle cable, drained the tank as much as possible, refilled with fresh premium zero ethanol (thanks to pure-gas.org), and pressed the magic button. Started up right away, and ran ok with some hesitation. almost feeling like there's a cylinder not effectively firing.

 

I warmed her up and did an oil/filter change and I think I overfilled using 4 full quarts, but the owner's manual and shop manual both said 3.8L(4qts).

Now she smokes like an old 50s femme fatale and fouled the plugs after just 5 or 10 minutes running up on the centerstand.

 

It was not smoking before I cleaned the carbs and replaced the float needle on the one carb.

 

Ideas?

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  • 9 months later...

Revisiting this. It's been a strange few months hasn't it? I was declared 'essential' and have been super busy working non-stop, almost never have time to work on my bike.  I finally started working on it, and cleared out the old oil. What a maroon. I drained the oil from the filter and not the drain plug. I can't believe I was that stupid.
That got all the old oil out, and bonus: I discovered the previous owner never had a plate washer between the spring and the filter O-ring. Of course, that chewed up the O-ring pretty well. 
New filter, with plate washer, new oil, proper amount, etc and....
the same carb is puking gas again. 
Unless someone has a better idea, I'll be pulling the carbs and cleaning them out again. I'll try some carb cleaner first. 

 

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8 hours ago, Get Off My Lawn said:

 bonus: I discovered the previous owner never had a plate washer between the spring and the filter O-ring. Of course, that chewed up the O-ring pretty well. 
New filter, with plate washer, new oil, proper amount, etc and....

 

GREAT -----THANKS A LOT----- now you got me thinking if I remembered to re-install the washer or not on the oil change I just completed. :confused07:

Sometimes when you've done things so often, you just go through the motions. Odds are if I pull it back apart I will find I did and if I leave it until next oil change I will find I left it out :bang head:

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Resolved the carb4 float bowl puke problem. I flushed/drained the float bowls a couple times, but that didn't resolve it. I pulled the carbs, sprayed and blew out the main and pilot. Then the fun of putting the bank and throttle cables back.  Fired up right away and although it's running a bit rich, she's alive. 

Worth replacing the (new but fouled) plugs? 

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20 hours ago, Get Off My Lawn said:

Resolved the carb4 float bowl puke problem. I flushed/drained the float bowls a couple times, but that didn't resolve it. I pulled the carbs, sprayed and blew out the main and pilot. Then the fun of putting the bank and throttle cables back.  Fired up right away and although it's running a bit rich, she's alive. 

Worth replacing the (new but fouled) plugs? 

Replace the plugs, you'll like it just fine!

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