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2nd gen clutch vs. 1st gen interchange ???


Peder_y2k
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Was just gifted a brand new 2nd gen clutch assembley, and was wondering if it is interchageable with my 1st gen. We thought since the two engines are similar/identical that the clutch would be also.

 

-Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

 

You would think so, wouldn't you? But the primary gear driven assy (clutch basket) seems not to be the same. Nor the clutch boss. SOME parts are interchangeable, but apparently not the clutch as an assembly.

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Thanks

For what it's worth, the two part numbers are:

1st gen ('88) 26H-16150-00-00

2nd gen ('08) 26H-16150-10-00

 

What should we make of the one digit difference?

 

-Pete, in Tacoma WA USA

 

You are probably right, the Second Gen may fit without modification. Usually, in the Yamaha parts system, the -10 v. -00 is a minor color, appearance, or 'improvement' that does not prevent interchangeability. What that -10 signifies is beyond my knowledge.

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Check out this link. It shows which bikes the 26h-16150-00-00 fits. both 1st Gens and also Vmax. http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/yamaha/YP-26H-16150-00-00.html

 

This one is for the 26h16150-10-00 It shows both Vmax and 2nd Gens http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/yamaha/YP-26H-16150-10-00.html

 

There is a lot of overlap. Looks like it'll werk!

 

If all else fails...get a bigger hammer!

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Oh! and by the way...

 

For those of you who do not speak Romulan or even Klingon..(Where's Vulture Boy when you need him!)

 

26H indicates the first vehicle it was used on

-16150 (component identification, eg. Primary driven gear)

-10 (the 1 indicates a variation to the part and the 0 indicates how many variations have been made to that part)

-00 indicates color or finish if applicable.

 

Honda seems to have another very logical numbering system. They however start their numbers with component and then on to applicable vehicles.

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I bought a complete 1stGen MKI clutch basket a couple of years ago, boxed it up, and forgot about it. Just ran across it a couple of days ago. The reason I picked it up was to see if it would replace the clutch in a MKII instead of running out and buying a new Barnett conversion pressure plate for big bucks, but like I said.. never got around to it.. Now I wonder if it would be compatible with a 2Gen. If it fits it would be a lot cheaper than shelling out the money for a Barnett in order to get away from the spring disc??

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  • 5 years later...

Yes it’s an old thread. But are they interchangeable? My 2000 whines terrible at some speeds. The loud stereo, hd pipes, ear plugs and higher speed are cute answers. Will my 1990 clutch/basket swap?Anyone done it? If not, have many done the oil pressure drip mod? Does it work? Last resort, is 20/50 too heavy?

I need to quieten it down or sell this close to perfect beautiful bike.

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Yes it’s an old thread. But are they interchangeable? My 2000 whines terrible at some speeds. The loud stereo, hd pipes, ear plugs and higher speed are cute answers. Will my 1990 clutch/basket swap?Anyone done it? If not, have many done the oil pressure drip mod? Does it work? Last resort, is 20/50 too heavy?

I need to quieten it down or sell this close to perfect beautiful bike.

 

I can answer the oil question: Yes, the 2-50 would be to heavy for up north riding. Here in Arizona...I prefer 20-50wt in both Ventures. But I've got the heat...

Different formulations of oil will make a difference in the loudness of the whine as well. And it seems to be different for each bike....just like the whine is different.

I found synthetic made mine worse, where as cheap WalMart branded 20-50 dino worked best for me.

Edited by videoarizona
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I think same way I just tried 15/40 and I’ll try 20/50 soon as I can.

After that I’ll try swapping baskets with a 1990 I have.

Hoping someone can save me some work if they know it won’t fit.

Great bike, gf likes it too. I’ll change them both if I can’t fix the whine.😂😂😂

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I can answer the oil question: Yes, the 2-50 would be to heavy for up north riding. Here in Arizona...I prefer 20-50wt in both Ventures. But I've got the heat...

Different formulations of oil will make a difference in the loudness of the whine as well. And it seems to be different for each bike....just like the whine is different.

I found synthetic made mine worse, where as cheap WalMart branded 20-50 dino worked best for me.

 

Interesting to hear that 20-50 would be too thick to run "up North". I would guess that the majority of us Northerners live within a couple of hundred miles of the 49th, and our usable riding season is somewhat shorter than our Southern neighbors. Since most of us don't ride year-round, it suggests that our riding is done in temperatures above freezing. I've tried various brands and viscosities, Synth and Dino, and overall...cost versus performance...Yamalube 20-50 works the best for what I do. Synthetics increased The Whine, as did a 10-40 wt. I change the oil & filter before 2500 miles and, according to the owners & service manuals, 20-50 wt falls comfortably inside the temperature range I ride in. When the opportunity to travel in Continuous Heat comes back, oil adjustments will be made.

 

Cheers.

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Well... 20-50 will work anywhere. I even used it one summer in New Hampshire. But I always warmed up the bike before I took off.

 

It is a touch thick in Spring and Fall in 40 degree weather... Which I rode in.

 

But yes you can use it.

 

Of course this viscosity issue is almost a moot point anymore.

GM has me running 0-20 wt! And I'm in 110 degree heat for 3 months out of a year.

Wasn't long ago that would have been a huge no no.

 

Sigh.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Wth? Changed to 20/50 dino (from 15/40 dino) and it got worse. 400 mile ride and it’s painful at 60 to 65 mph.

lol going to try a 90 Royale basket next. No one seems to know if it will fit. I hate using ear plugs.

Nomad in the garage patiently waiting.

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