bkuhr Posted June 2, 2014 Share #51 Posted June 2, 2014 yes, upgrade to list of parts in post #5 http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=40604 If cant get pins, I read someone had cut some pins down Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamagrl Posted June 2, 2014 Author Share #52 Posted June 2, 2014 I am at least the third owner. The PO brought down from PA. Small world! Heather Kens cycle repair!!!! I have been going there for 25yrs, was just there yesterday to get my Madura inspected. Pretty wild?? Craig Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkuhr Posted June 2, 2014 Share #53 Posted June 2, 2014 http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1999/V-MAX%201200%20-%20VMX12L/SHIFT%20CAM%20FORK/parts.html parts 6,7,13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamagrl Posted June 2, 2014 Author Share #54 Posted June 2, 2014 Pins are not avail there either. More info needed on cutting them down. What is the length? I can figure out how to cut/grind them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted June 2, 2014 Share #55 Posted June 2, 2014 (edited) Picture of upgrade shift segment attached. You do not need the plate at top left, old one is fine. Picture of parts break down attached & link to page. http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/2003/ROYAL+STAR+MIDNIGHT+VENTURE+%28Onyx%29+-+XVZ1300TFSR/SHIFT+CAM+FORK/parts.html The shift segment pins will be hardened steel, not easy to cut at all. All needed pins are about $10. Shift segment is $33.32 Gary Edited June 2, 2014 by dingy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamagrl Posted June 2, 2014 Author Share #56 Posted June 2, 2014 Thanks Gary Sent from my moto X Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted June 2, 2014 Share #57 Posted June 2, 2014 http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Yamaha/Motorcycle/1999/V-MAX%201200%20-%20VMX12L/SHIFT%20CAM%20FORK/parts.html parts 6,7,13 Also #4 & #8, old screw is hard to remove cleanly. Use heat on it to break loctite. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamagrl Posted June 2, 2014 Author Share #58 Posted June 2, 2014 I've never used heat to get something loose. Will heat gun work or it it best to use propane torch. Sent from my moto X Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted June 2, 2014 Share #59 Posted June 2, 2014 I've never used heat to get something loose. Will heat gun work or it it best to use propane torch. Sent from my moto X Torch. Not red hot though. Google Red Loctite specifications Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamagrl Posted June 2, 2014 Author Share #60 Posted June 2, 2014 (edited) Speaking of red locktite, the guy in the vmax engine video (Damon, I think) said he uses red on everything inside the engine where the manual calls for loctite. What is your take on that one? Sent from my moto X Edited June 8, 2014 by yamagrl clarify Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted June 3, 2014 Share #61 Posted June 3, 2014 Good Job so far, my sincere congrats !! Please, only use Loctite where called for. The Manual is not wrong on everything. I'd also consider calling up Dano and have him replace the Starter Clutch with the upgraded Clutch Assembly while you have the Engine apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamagrl Posted June 3, 2014 Author Share #62 Posted June 3, 2014 Thank you Squeeze. Please tell me more about the starter clutch up grade Sent from my moto X Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted June 3, 2014 Share #63 Posted June 3, 2014 Have a Talk with Dano he can fill you in much better than i can. Basically, you send him your Flywheel and he'll mount a much better Starter Clutch Assembly and supply a new 76-th Wheel. The new Clutch works with 18 elliptical coupling Pieces where the 1Gen Starter Clutch brings in 3 Rollers for Duty. One may say, it's not necessary to replace a working Starter Clutch. That might be true, but you never know when Things start to go south and it could happen next Week. It's not a fun job and while you're have the motor apart, it's a good Idea to do this and never think about the Starter Clutch again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dano Posted June 3, 2014 Share #64 Posted June 3, 2014 Basically you just send me that removed rotor from the left side of your crank (that PITA you had to get off after you removed the left side cover,,,,), keep the 72th gear for future throwing usage(if needed on someone/thing!) leaving the existing starter clutch on the backside of it because I need that little washer that's inbetween the clutch and the rotor. Oh yeah along with a check or paypal for $325 and you'll receive back a complete-never to wear out-1700cc bored-out VMax proven (for how many years now Squeeze?!) starter clutch mounted on your rotor. You put it in a medium-size USPS flat-rate Priority Mail box, it'll cost $13 only that way to ship it to me and I pay the same to ship it back to ya. You don't need the extra $15 for the gasket kit I offer with it because you're gonna need the complete gasket kit for your motor..... If you sent it today, I'd have it back to ya before you're ready to put that motor back in the bike! Dingy and Flyinfool will tell you how good a deal it is to do whilst it's apart, like Squeeze said..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted June 3, 2014 Share #65 Posted June 3, 2014 I'm a happy camper with my Dano starter clutch. Tweety was starting to have issues. Higher compression in motor was accelerating failure. Picture of reworked rotor I got back from Dan attached. Also picture of stock starter clutch assy., removed from rotor. Rather puny in comparison. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hell yea Posted June 4, 2014 Share #66 Posted June 4, 2014 good to see you having a go I did mine without removing the faring but if i ever have to take out the engine agane i will defiantly remove the faring will save a lot of cussing lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamagrl Posted June 7, 2014 Author Share #67 Posted June 7, 2014 There is only very, very slight wear on the 5th to 2nd gear dogs. Simply dressing them up a little, just enough to alleviate a slight rounding of the "driving" edge of the dogs and keeping all three dogs even will quite likely be adequate for the gear portion of this repair. However, the original 2nd and 5th gears are not undercut. I noticed that the dogs on the other gears are. It is obvious that the undercut will physically draw the gears together, whereas the square dogs are only held in place by the shifting fork. I have heard that from 86 or so on, that the 5th/2nd gear upgrade is undercut. Is this true? If so, I am assuming that is also true for the Vmax, as well. The original 5th driven gear on the First Gen is 29T, the gear ratio is .906. The Vmax 5th driven gear is 26T. So if I keep the 32T pinion gear I'm aware 5th/2nd are mated) and use the 26T Vmax driven gear, the gear ratio would then be 26/32 otherwise .812. If the original gear ratio is .906 and the proposed gear ratio is .812 that renders a 10.4% higher 5th gear. Sorta like an overdrive. I do a good bit of city driving, a lot of highway driving and it's not very hilly here. I also do a good bit of interstate 80ish mph mostly. I'm wondering if the higher gear will be better for me overall or will performance and fuel consumption head south? If you're wondering about my driving habits...well, suffice it to say, I'm not afraid to ride it. What do you guys think? How about a few expert opinions, please. Thanks for all of the help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hell yea Posted June 7, 2014 Share #68 Posted June 7, 2014 sum of the differences just replace it all with a 86 our later trany then every things fixt never have any mour trubbel notice 2 and 5 are wider on the 86 and later trans so no possibility of jumping out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamagrl Posted June 7, 2014 Author Share #69 Posted June 7, 2014 Thanks Hell Yea, Great pic of the main/input shaft and gears. It shows an excellent comparison. I did notice on mine that the 2nd gear pinion has no dogs and that the teeth engage the 5th pinion. Every other tooth is about 2-3 mm narrower. I'm guessing this is to soften the engagement as 2nd/3rd moves over to engage 5th. It looks like a good idea to me. Is there a similar picture/comparison of the output/driven shaft and gears. That would be great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hell yea Posted June 7, 2014 Share #70 Posted June 7, 2014 both shafts from 86 model there the ones i fitted to mine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hell yea Posted June 7, 2014 Share #71 Posted June 7, 2014 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hell yea Posted June 7, 2014 Share #72 Posted June 7, 2014 by far the best fix cheapest and no need to back cut our anything else just fit and forget no more tyranny probs :cool10: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamagrl Posted June 7, 2014 Author Share #73 Posted June 7, 2014 That's what I'm thinking too Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hell yea Posted June 7, 2014 Share #74 Posted June 7, 2014 it is the wear in the thrust washers that cors 2nd gear to jump out.... on the later model tranny they are herder and dont suffer from wear also they made the dogs on second a bit longer so theres no posibility of it jumping out which is why i sugest the compleat replasment of the old trany it obsoleat and not werth reparing the grovs should not be there they are onley adout 2/3 mm deep but its enough whitch is why they made the dogs longer on the later tranys Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hell yea Posted June 7, 2014 Share #75 Posted June 7, 2014 the oley thing you need to do is swop your drive pinyon gear and shims over to the new tranny you will need a pres for that i got the lokall bike shop to do it for me cost me a bit lol but was cheaper than buying a press Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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