mosfet voltage regulator or oem type

[sendaro_99]

Well the saga continues. I ordered one of the regulators from bike bandit that was supposed to be a mosfet type regulator from Ricks motorsports. Thought that would be better and was ready to hard wire it in. What I received was a standard plug in regulator. My connector plug melted when the regulotor I just replaced shorted out and even though I ordered the Sumitomo .250 lock type of connector to replace the melted one I'm not so sure I should not call bike bandit back and go for the mosfet regulator. Sure could use some input from the pros on this.

[LilBeaver]

Your statement is somewhat ambiguous as to what you ordered, what you think you ordered and what you were expecting to receive [or maybe I am just not understanding properly].

 

From what I can tell, you seem to think that the 'MOSFET' R/R would come with a different harness end or something; is that what you were thinking?

 

What sets the MOSFET [Metal-Oxide semiconducting field effect transistor] apart from a 'traditional' Rectifier/regulator [which on the 2nd gens, I have not opened one up to see if it is, in fact, MOSFET, thyristor or whatever else they may be since it is new enough I would be a little surprised if it was not built with MOSFEt components anyway] has to do with the network physical electronic devices that actually provides the switching capabilities required for the R/R unit to actually function the way it is supposed to.

I will spare the details, but, in this application a MOSFET component can operate more efficiently than a thyristor -- specifically function with producing less heat. One of the leading causes of failure in semiconducting devices (or electronics, for that matter) relates to heat.

 

So regardless of the internal components, the exterior of your regulator/rectifier unit will probably look nearly identical as it still needs to fit in the stock location, it still needs to plug into your stock electrical system and it still needs to have plenty of airflow to keep cool enough to not kill itself. I would be awfully surprised if you were able to order a bolt-on regulator/rectifier unit that did NOT have the stock connector on it.

 

I would say go with a good quality replacement -- from your original statement it is a bit unclear as to whether you ordered a R/R from bike bandit OR from Rick's Motorsports. Either OEM or the MOSFET that

 

The previous on you had that fried it self -- was that a replacement? Where did that come from? Was it ACTUALLY for the correct bike?

Personally, I would be on the horn with that company (so long as it was properly spec'ed for the RSV) as there no reason it should have caught fire under normal operations. Short of having a lot of corrosion on the pins which would cause excess heat from the increased resistivity in the connectors, if the original R/R didn't go up in smoke [but still failed] it is hard for me to believe that a quality replacement would start fire before frying some internal component. -- Again, this is all assuming that it was the PROPER replacement for the RSV. If it was spec'ed for a different bike, with a lower power rating, then I would not be surprised at all if it shot flames at some point...

 

Anyway, I hope this answered your question -- I have been told, in the past, that I ramble a lot but I do hope that my rambling is informative and helpful.

[Cougar]

My MOSFET just plugged into the same spot as the OEM did,, Took the same plug in.

3 mins to install I have side by side photos if you need to see them.

NO HARD WIRING !!

[sendaro_99]

First thanks for all the feedback, let me try again. Ordered a replacement regulator from eBay that was new and supposed to fit. Changed it out, like you said plug and play. the connector appeared to be clean but I sprayed it with contact cleaner and snapped it together. Was a real bear to get it all the way to where it snapped but finally got it. I had applied dielectric grease liberally (was not hi temp, did not know there was a high temp), checked and was getting 14.5v across battery. Rode about 80 miles no problem. started out again and got about 20 miles and while at a red light the regulator went poof, smoke and flames. Ordered a replacement from bike bandit that was from Ricks motorsports. the specifications stated this regulator was a mosfet style that came with wires protruding from the regulator that had to be hard wired. no connectors were supposed to be supplied. What arrived was what is identical to the oem style that has the male pins built into it and requires the stock connector to install it. the part number for what I ordered was 2733155 what I got was part no 10-413 yamaha regulator. Was just wondering if it's worth the hassle and wait to exchange the one I got for the one that hard wires in and is a mosfet? Hope that clears it up some and that's again the information on the regulator was great!

[reddevilmedic]

this is where I got mine...after killing 2 stators...finally went with Hot Shot and this Shindigen. http://roadstercycle.com/.

[jilldwr]

Thanks for that, Reddevilmedic, That "Convert your Vmax Carbs to Fuel Injection Throttle Bodies" bit at the end looks VERY tempting...

[10spd]

I thought I was the only one tempted to do that.

[paysaw]

I hear of talk of using a 2003 Yamaha FJR1300 regulator on Mk1 bikes as a replacement.Any thoughts on this?I was told it runs cold and can be mounted anywhere.