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couple HF tag along questions


meach

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So I've read through several threads on the HF trailer which I have purchased but still have a couple questions. (I've read through most of the tips on mods to make.)(I even got a free multimeter with purchase :))

 

It seems some people remove the leaf springs. Pro/con? If I leave them I can see putting carpet or something to reduce rattle.

 

Will probably install some LED on rear of carrier to increase visibility, anyone found a good buy that works well on this trailer and suggestions of splicing into existing wiring. I might also replace tail lights with LED.

 

I used a different HF trailer for many years that I had built a box on for hauling stuff around behind a van, great trailer for the $.

 

thanks for any info.

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I changed out the stock lights for the HF LED set just to make it quick and simple. They are a huge improvement for the money over what came with the trailer. More money...... more improvement. I'm sure there are more powerfull lights that will work.

 

A couple of guys have added recessed lights into the top of the body for higher light visability.

 

Moving the fender mount license plate to the rear center of the bottom part of the box with some intense white LED's on it will will highlight your rear side also. I'm headed for that idea myself. Not to mention if your state issues the full sized plate the fender mount leaves it in a very low position.

 

I left the overload spring in mine. Sure, the trailer is rated at 600lbs and probably won't ever need them as my max load is expected to be around 200 -225lb range. Rides fine at that load.

 

I got rid of the rattle by just sleeving the rear shackle bolts with a section of heater hose. Got rid of the banging.

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:sign yeah that::sign yeah that:

On my HF trailer the first thing I did was to add the HF LED tail lights, I never even installed the incandescent ones that came with the trailer. I am adding in a center high mounted brake light / running light. Wiring is not hard to make it act as a true brake light from the flat 4 wiring.

 

I intend to add a bunch more LEDs to the trailer after I get done putting more LEDs on the bike.

 

I did remove the extra spring since I will never get anywhere near the 8--+ lbs that the trailer is designed to carry. It was ok with the double spring but is noticeably smoother with the single spring.

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I changed out the stock lights for the HF LED set just to make it quick and simple. They are a huge improvement for the money over what came with the trailer. More money...... more improvement. I'm sure there are more powerfull lights that will work.

 

A couple of guys have added recessed lights into the top of the body for higher light visability.

 

Moving the fender mount license plate to the rear center of the bottom part of the box with some intense white LED's on it will will highlight your rear side also. I'm headed for that idea myself. Not to mention if your state issues the full sized plate the fender mount leaves it in a very low position.

 

I left the overload spring in mine. Sure, the trailer is rated at 600lbs and probably won't ever need them as my max load is expected to be around 200 -225lb range. Rides fine at that load.

 

I got rid of the rattle by just sleeving the rear shackle bolts with a section of heater hose. Got rid of the banging.

 

This is pretty much the same for me. Here is the HF light LED kit.

http://www.harborfreight.com/led-trailer-light-kit-95974.html

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I've read where some folks have changed out the wheel bearings to high speed quality. Those smaller tires are going to be turning up a storm compared to the bike's tires. Also you can replace the tires with Carlisle high speed trailer tires. I had them on the Motorvation and was surprised to find they were actually taller....

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Thanks for input guys, yea I'll prob. switch to that LED kit. Haven't installed any of the lights anyway, was waiting to decide a couple things.

 

Flyinfool -

I'll have to look at the springs again as I think I have only one spring not two. If I remove the spring then axle will just mount to frame which would mean redoing fenders. Hmmm I'll have to look it over again.

 

Already repacked the bearings, did that while axle was off. Reminded me of repacking bearings on old bomb trailers back in the Air Force days. May eventually replace with higher grade. Not going to be hauling much except for camping gear and what ever RC planes will fit in it.

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It seems some people remove the leaf springs. Pro/con? If I leave them I can see putting carpet or something to reduce rattle.

 

.

 

You weren't talking about removing the spring suspension altogether were you? Just going rigid?

 

 

Don't think you'd like that:no-no-no:

 

Some just remove the single short overload leaf for a smoother ride.

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I've read where some folks have changed out the wheel bearings to high speed quality. Those smaller tires are going to be turning up a storm compared to the bike's tires. Also you can replace the tires with Carlisle high speed trailer tires. I had them on the Motorvation and was surprised to find they were actually taller....

 

JMHO, I changed the OEM bearings at around 10,000 miles on them. They looked brand new. I finally changed the "cheap" tires last week. They have something like 17-18,000 miles on them. Never weighed the trailer but it is not too heavy for me to pick it up from the rear. I have not lengthened the tongue, but I have never had any instability from it untill I approach the rev limiter in 4th gear :whistling:

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Thanks for input guys, yea I'll prob. switch to that LED kit. Haven't installed any of the lights anyway, was waiting to decide a couple things.

 

Flyinfool -

I'll have to look at the springs again as I think I have only one spring not two. If I remove the spring then axle will just mount to frame which would mean redoing fenders. Hmmm I'll have to look it over again.

 

Already repacked the bearings, did that while axle was off. Reminded me of repacking bearings on old bomb trailers back in the Air Force days. May eventually replace with higher grade. Not going to be hauling much except for camping gear and what ever RC planes will fit in it.

 

OK now you really got my attention.......

 

The springs should be 2 leafs on each side, One full leaf with the mounting eye at each end and a half leaf, it is the half leaf that we get rid of.

 

If you plan to carry RC gear, you want as soft of a ride as possible. Make sure that you flight box can not attack the aircraft. A heavy flight box is drawn like a magnet to a nice fragile wing. You need a bunch of anchor points to tie everything down good. Dont ask how I know this.

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OK now you really got my attention.......

 

The springs should be 2 leafs on each side, One full leaf with the mounting eye at each end and a half leaf, it is the half leaf that we get rid of. ...

 

ahh it makes sense now, went out and looked and I see the 1/2 spring, didn't look at the springs in detail when I was putting together. Couldn't imagine removing the springs all together but ya never know.

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You will also want to run around 20 psi in the tires, this also helps to soften the ride. It is hard enough on your airplanes just having to put up with landing, you don't want to subject them to 5,000 crash landings on the way to the flying site.......

 

SO now, What kind of aircraft are you carrying????

There are a few members here that have both the MC and RC addictions.:mo money:

 

I am looking at building a BIG box onto my HF trailer to carry my bigger planes. I will need 96" long x 40" wide x 30" high to hold my jet. It is a big box but will have very little weight in it (less than 100 lbs cargo) to go flying. I may build it with a V nose for less wind resistance. the jet has a kind of pointy nose to...... I am hoping to then get several aircraft plus gear in there to be able to take the bike to area fun flies within a 200 mile radius.

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So I've read through several threads on the HF trailer which I have purchased but still have a couple questions. (I've read through most of the tips on mods to make.)(I even got a free multimeter with purchase :))

 

It seems some people remove the leaf springs. Pro/con? If I leave them I can see putting carpet or something to reduce rattle.

 

Will probably install some LED on rear of carrier to increase visibility, anyone found a good buy that works well on this trailer and suggestions of splicing into existing wiring. I might also replace tail lights with LED.

 

I used a different HF trailer for many years that I had built a box on for hauling stuff around behind a van, great trailer for the $.

 

thanks for any info.

 

Which trailer did you buy? If it's the Tag-a-Long then the springs and tongue need no modification. LED lights are an improvement.

 

If it's the flat utility trailer then some of the suggestions are worth noting, some of these guys have a lot of experience with them.

 

On my TagAlong I repacked the wheel bearings, replaced the grease zerks, added some lighting, changed some hardware to stainless steel, carpeted the inside, changed the OEM lock to one of better quality. Picture is with left turn signal activated.

 

WOW, I SEE SNAGGLETOOTH ALREADY POSTED THIS PIC.

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You will also want to run around 20 psi in the tires, this also helps to soften the ride. It is hard enough on your airplanes just having to put up with landing, you don't want to subject them to 5,000 crash landings on the way to the flying site.......

 

SO now, What kind of aircraft are you carrying????

There are a few members here that have both the MC and RC addictions.:mo money:

 

I am looking at building a BIG box onto my HF trailer to carry my bigger planes. I will need 96" long x 40" wide x 30" high to hold my jet. It is a big box but will have very little weight in it (less than 100 lbs cargo) to go flying. I may build it with a V nose for less wind resistance. the jet has a kind of pointy nose to...... I am hoping to then get several aircraft plus gear in there to be able to take the bike to area fun flies within a 200 mile radius.

 

Thought about making my own box also but went with the tag-along for now, might later build a custom box I can swap out with cargo carrier.

 

Almost all my planes are fairly small scratch built foamies anyway made mostly from Dollar Tree foam and hotglue, cheap electronics from HK, the largest one is a 60" cub like plane. Its on its last legs (they currently ride in the back of my truck to field. I fly at a city park (where they allow us rather than going to a true RC field much farther away). The park is surrounded by trees so limited to smaller planes for easier flying, I'm somewhat of a rookie. Flew RC glliders 40 yr ago, got back into RC a year or so ago using all electric motors. HAD a Radian I bought a year ago but it flew off into the sunset a couple months ago due to radio interference never to be seen again.:confused24: I actually tied a 42" scratch built flying wing to my RSV trunk one day and it did fair, wing tips kept catching the wind and fluttering.

 

Built a foam F-22 but have decided jets aren't for me for now, have to fly them too fast for my reaction time.

 

HAD a 30" twin motor cargo plane I built was gonna try and ride in tag-along but I was fooling around recently and stalled too close to the ground and it nosed in, too smashed up to bother fixing will just trash it. Might build another one with some mods, it was fun to fly, even had a bomb bay for dropping stuff.

 

Have gotten sidetracked with the HF trailer & MC lately, been way to windy lately to fly anyway, but great weather for bike rides.

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Which trailer did you buy? If it's the Tag-a-Long then the springs and tongue need no modification. LED lights are an improvement.

 

If it's the flat utility trailer then some of the suggestions are worth noting, some of these guys have a lot of experience with them.

 

On my TagAlong I repacked the wheel bearings, replaced the grease zerks, added some lighting, changed some hardware to stainless steel, carpeted the inside, changed the OEM lock to one of better quality. Picture is with left turn signal activated.

 

WOW, I SEE SNAGGLETOOTH ALREADY POSTED THIS PIC.

 

Its the tag-along, may just leave spring alone for now, can always remove later, do want to put some hose around the rear bolt at least.

 

I might just leave the stock tail lights as well and add some LED brake/turn lights up high similar to yours.

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So I have my hitch mounted, looking for a 1 1/4 stinger, any suggestions? Thus far most places have one that is solid steel and ball sits 9 " out. Any suggestions on where to find one? This one would work just seems overkill and ball seems to sit somewhat far out (fyi I'm using carbon ones hitch)

 

Is there an ideal length for the ball to be from the fender?

 

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200247974_200247974

Edited by meach
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So I have my hitch mounted, looking for a 1 1/4 stinger, any suggestions? Thus far most places have one that is solid steel and ball sits 9 " out. Any suggestions on where to find one? This one would work just seems overkill and ball seems to sit somewhat far out (fyi I'm using carbon ones hitch)

 

Is there an ideal length for the ball to be from the fender?

 

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200247974_200247974

 

All of the commercial stingers are going to be rated and built for at least a 200 lb tongue weight and a 2,000 lb trailer weight. This normally means that it will be solid and heavy.

 

For the bike, the shorter the better. It is not to close until it hits something.

 

I made my own stinger out of 1 - 1/4 square tubing with a 1/8 wall and I welded some reinforcements at the ball end, It is more than strong enough for a bike, I would not use it on a cage with a class I trailer.

 

I do not remember which one off hand but one of the places that make hitches also sells a light weight stinger for use on a bike.

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All of the commercial stingers are going to be rated and built for at least a 200 lb tongue weight and a 2,000 lb trailer weight. This normally means that it will be solid and heavy.

 

For the bike, the shorter the better. It is not to close until it hits something.

 

I made my own stinger out of 1 - 1/4 square tubing with a 1/8 wall and I welded some reinforcements at the ball end, It is more than strong enough for a bike, I would not use it on a cage with a class I trailer.

 

I do not remember which one off hand but one of the places that make hitches also sells a light weight stinger for use on a bike.

 

this stinger is rated 300 & 3000, carbon one have offered to make me one out of tubing. I could make one myself If I could find a good source for the stock but would prob have to buy a bunch just for the few inches I need, now the question is how long to make it?:confused24:

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check kmart,. wally world, farm & fleet for a starter set like 19.00 stinger and ball

 

Have checked every place I can think of just about and they all seem to have the same solid one which is also too long, probably gonna just have a custom one made out of lighter material but gonna check out a couple more places just in case.

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