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valve shim tool


pietermoore

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anyone have the J tool for changing out shims on the xvz? my xvz is torn down and I'm tired of trying to make a homemade one work:rotf:. borrow or buy would be fine. Also, I will have a supply of the more popular shim sizes when I'm done if anyone needs some.

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I just got a reply from Bike Bandit to my question about shim prices. Their site says $15.95 but a piece count of zero. You betcha- $15.95 PER SHIM!!! Their excuse? Its OEM and not available as an aftermarket item! I'm still waiting a reply from Chaparral Motorsports. Their listing says $11.30 and a piece count of 16! I asked if I can mix sizes in that 16 count.

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I just got a reply from Bike Bandit to my question about shim prices. Their site says $15.95 but a piece count of zero. You betcha- $15.95 PER SHIM!!! Their excuse? Its OEM and not available as an aftermarket item! I'm still waiting a reply from Chaparral Motorsports. Their listing says $11.30 and a piece count of 16! I asked if I can mix sizes in that 16 count.

 

The 16 count means there are 16 of these in the motor. The shims are somewhat unique in that you would not need 16 of the same, but that is the way many parts suppliers software works.

 

Picture is from partzilla.com site. Above 1st red block is notation 'Price is for one part'

 

Gary

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When I had my FJ1200 motor in the Legends car I was getting shims from I think Mr Cycle. Seems to me at that time a couple years ago it was around $5-6 ea. Luckely I have a bag full of shims different sizes now. But I have a real over abundance of big shims, like 300 range. I need to see if I can sell the FJ valve tool. I gave like $40+ for it.

Jeff: you heard anything about the one Bob was working on last year? Last I had heard he had to knock off on the free work (the valve tool) as he had paying jobs.

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New FJ tools go for around $55 on e-bay. By the way here is a link to some valve shims. Unless you use them to pund on you cant hardly hurt them so used is an option in my book. Some have a selection some individual. Maybe someone will chime in but I dont think you need very many above 280.

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I do not think it the shims that are wearing. It is other components in the valve system that are wearing and you have to change the shims to get all of the clearances back to where they should be. On my high mileage parts motor all of the shims still look brand new.

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I have a kit with shim tool and assorted shims. You can borrow it if you exchange the shims with ones you take out. Any used in the range of 2.55-2.70 will need to be replaced with similar size as those are the ones most commonly needed and in short supply in the kit.

 

Also Earl skydoc sells the needed cover gaskets and will lend you a tool and a shim kit if you buy gaskets from him.

 

Member MiCarl sells shims and the tool. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=210

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The way it was explained to me on the FJ motor and I have to assume its basicly the same on all the shim adjusted motors. As the engine runs the cam trys to push the valve out of the head, the spring trys to pull it back thru the head. Thus the clearences get less. So if you have say a 300 shim in it as the valve get pulled up your clearence gets smaller and you need to go to say a .275 shim or whatever the chart says.

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The way it was explained to me on the FJ motor and I have to assume its basicly the same on all the shim adjusted motors. As the engine runs the cam trys to push the valve out of the head, the spring trys to pull it back thru the head. Thus the clearences get less. So if you have say a 300 shim in it as the valve get pulled up your clearence gets smaller and you need to go to say a .275 shim or whatever the chart says.

 

The reason the clearance gets less is that as the valve slams back into the head, it wears the face of the head slightly.

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