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checking float level on '96-'01 royal star 28mm carbs


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i made a short video when i was setting and checking the float levels on a set of 28mm carbs and wrote of how i did it for some of the guys on delphi forum and thought i would post it here too.there's a way i do it and it has worked out good on the last several sets im have fixed for others and redid mine while i had them off, all you have to do is when you have the carbs torn down, put all the float and needle assembly together, turn them upside-down so the float is up, jiggle the carbs so the floatsts bounce around a little so they are seated in place and not binding. while you still holding them upside-down, hold them right in front of you and look to see if both floats are level with each other, several i have done has been uneven, if they are uneven, take two small pairs of needle-nose pliers, hold the arm near the middle where the needle valve is and use the other pair to bend easlily the arm on the far float to equal level, make sure to hold needle valve off the seat so it not down and possillely mess it up or take it out and bend it and put back in. after you are sure they are pretty level across the 2 floats then make sure the needle valve is set down on seat and measure from the edge of bow to the top of the floats and it should be between 8 to 9 mm,(i try to get mine nearer to 9mm). i usually check it on both sides of the set of floats just to be sure i've got them level as i can. checking them out the way the book says to do it is way too hard fro me to do. one of the guys near me wants to take his down and check them out on his 98 so i may try to do a video of it as there will be 2 of us.i'll let y'all know when we do it. try this link, let me know if it works.

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  • 8 months later...

glad it helped out, hoping i can do a little better job and show more of the little things you need to look at while they are down. 1 thing, there a stub out between the 2 jet and you need to make sure it open. and i use the 2 smallest tip cleaners on the set for cleaning the oxy-acc torch tip, you can get it at most auto parts and wal-mart stores. i have a cople of extra sets of 28mms, that i rebuilt for anybody needing them.

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  • 5 months later...

This conversation I had with Don, who helped me out.

 

Hi Don,

 

you're vid works again, thanks for that.

 

This makes sense, measuring without holding the floaters up.

The floaters were so far down(in fact up) that it confused me so that I didn't understand the instructions.

 

Did it yesterday, getting at reassembling in a moment.

 

I'm putting our conversations on the board. I have access again.

 

grtz Bunnie

Hi,

on 33.36 pic you need to measure from the flat surface on the bottom right to the tallest part of the float. measure all 4 floats and see if they are all the same first before doing any adjustments. also look from the front side and see if both sides of the float is close to the same, sometimes they'll be off, one side higher than the other. I posted a video on the 28mm cards, i'll see if I can forward it to you, don. if you need to you can call me at ..........

https://www.dropbox.com/s/rjvc95y4et97qe0/2014-03-24%2018.32.55.jpg

In the above picture the carb is upside down. The floaters are held up, which means in fact on the lowest position. The needle valve is open. The floaters are blocked by a plastic blockage on the floater against the needle holder and not by the tang. See the picture below.

So what use is it to bend the tang. I probably see it wrong, but I don't know how.

Your youtube vid is not appearing btw

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/ndm0onzskc67rwa/2014-03-24%2018.33.36.jpg

 

Hi,

 

I don't understand the measurement of the float height. Which distance should be measured?

 

I'll sent pictures in a moment

Edited by dnBunnie
link to pictures were invalid !?
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The video played. At the time of watching it it has 724 views so far and I was the first like. Lol

I also couldn't find the measurements anywhere when I needed them. So just basically measured all the floats abd they were all egual so I just buttoned them up again.

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i set mine around 9mm, mine was set from factory just below 8mm. after setting them a bit lower they seem to run better and trhe gas milage came up abit. just remember you are measuring the float when it's at the top level and shutting off the gas. another thing i did on the last 2 set i did, was i took about a 1/8" drill bit and lightly spun it by hand down in the seat hole, so the tappered rubber end would seat down and seal off better.

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i set mine around 9mm' date=' mine was set from factory just below 8mm. after setting them a bit lower they seem to run better and trhe gas milage came up abit. just remember you are measuring the float when it's at the top level and shutting off the gas. another thing i did on the last 2 set i did, was i took about a 1/8" drill bit and lightly spun it by hand down in the seat hole, so the tappered rubber end would seat down and seal off better.[/quote']

 

What gas mileage are you seeing now and how much of an improvement did you see?

At times I have to blip the throttle to clear it as it loads up on me

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i usually get 42mpg if i ride steady, but if i twist the throttle much it go to mid 30s. i get about 2 or 3 mpg afterward, not a lot but it seems to run a lot smoother. but i have opened up the airbox and went to 115(99 oem) mains and 22.5 idle jets. bike has a much better get up and go over oem setup.

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Probably due to the fact that my floaters differ from the ones in the vid. the settings don't give improvement.

In fact lowering the floaters so that they won't float higher then the 8 to 9mill, ensures that in my case there is much less fuel in the chamber.

The settings as I found them were so far off these 8-9 that I was confused about what was meant. When I saw the vid. I knew and did the adjustment.

That resulted in bad running, not picking up the throttle and not getting high resoluitions from the engine: there simply was not enough fuel.

Ressetting the tangs to the original position, plain straight and not bend, resolved it again and the bike is running nowmal again.

Compare my pics above with the video.

Strange thing in this is that my manual do show the same floaters as I have and also recommend the settings to be 8-9 mil.

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  • 10 months later...

Good video but my floats look different. My manual I bought is electronic and shows the adjustment method with a clear tube. The one I am working on is a 1999 Royal Star and that is all the owner told me and I have just the carb's. When I look up parts for it the microfiche for the 1999 Yamaha ROYAL STAR BOULEVARD (XVZ13AL) is the one it looks like except the carb heaters are not shown in this pic.

schemer

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  • 6 years later...
On 10/4/2013 at 5:25 PM, tazmocycle said:

glad it helped out, hoping i can do a little better job and show more of the little things you need to look at while they are down. 1 thing, there a stub out between the 2 jet and you need to make sure it open. and i use the 2 smallest tip cleaners on the set for cleaning the oxy-acc torch tip, you can get it at most auto parts and wal-mart stores. i have a cople of extra sets of 28mms, that i rebuilt for anybody needing them.

Do you have photos? Ive posted on here trying to resolve fuel coming out of the main jet/needle jet whatever you want to call it. Do you have photos of these 28mm carbs and what ports to be cleaned that could cause this overly rich condition at idle? Floats are at 8.5 mm like shown in your video and i have blown air into the fuel passages with needle valves seated with the weight of the float only not compressing the shock spring on top of needle valve itself and seems to seal great with no air coming through i am stumped. Looked at float height, tested floats and two different fuel pumps and still have same problem of fuel coming out of the main jet/needle jet orifice. 

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