How do I bleed the clutch line?

[Nemo]

The clutch doesn't release completely and the trike tends to creep ahead. Probably a simple procedure to most of you, but I just need a little help here. I changed the fluid. I now need to bleed the system. Thanks. Owen.

[cabreco]

The clutch doesn't release completely and the trike tends to creep ahead. Probably a simple procedure to most of you, but I just need a little help here. I changed the fluid. I now need to bleed the system. Thanks. Owen.

 

 

When I replaced my slave cylinder, I bled my clutch on my 84 by

1. opening the bleeder (NOT TOUCHING THE CLUTCH HANDLE) and let gravity slowly draw the air bubbles out. (BECAUSE MY SLAVE WAS TOTALLY EMPTY)

THEN

2.When the fluid coming out of the bleeder had no bubbles, I closed the bleeder pumped the clutch then while holding the handle down I cracked the bleeder let some air/fluid out THEN closed the bleeder (HOLDING THE CLUTCH IN UNTIL THE BLEEDER WAS CLOSED)

Repeat as needed. It's best as a 2 person job.

 

Since your clutch is in you can do step 2 only.

[skydoc_17]

Hey Owen,

Changing the clutch fluid is a very good thing, but because the fluid doesn't "circulate" in the braking system, it is very important to "bleed" the new fluid down to the Clutch Slave. On the lower left side of your motorcycle, you will see a black rubber boot. Lift off this boot, and you will see the bleeder valve for the clutch slave. I like to use a little PB Blaster, (or WD40) on the bleeder valve to loosen it up a bit, you don't want to wring that puppy off. Use an 8MM boxed end wrench, and crack the bleeder about 1/4 turn counter clock wise. Squeeze the clutch lever and hold it, then re tighten the bleeder valve. Squeeze the lever a few times, and repeat the procedure. Crack the bleeder, squeeze the clutch lever, and re tighten the bleeder. Needless to say, keep the clutch reservoir filled with fluid, and be sure to put the top of the reservoir back on, and COVER ANY Painted surfaces BEFORE you start to squirt brake fluid all over the place! I like to attach a clear plastic section of tubing on the bleeder to control the squirting of the fluid. I submerge the other end of the tubing in a bottle of brake fluid to keep the clutch slave from "sucking air" but it is not a must.

Earl

[Guest scarylarry]

Have you change the fluid and now have air in the system? That is the way I'm reading this..

[Nemo]

Air in the line, yes that's what I think may be the problem. Now, I'll bleed it in the morning and hope that fixes it. And I also removed the old fluid from the reservoir and refilled it.

[Guest scarylarry]

Take the reservoir cover off with the bars turn far to the right, be sure everything under reservoir is cover, I just use a drop cloth..

 

Work the clutch lever back and forth real slow, you will see the air come up thru the bottom as the piston is worked, you could get a large burp and that might spit fluid out, that is the reason for covering it up...

 

This is the fastest way for me, but be sure the bar are turn to the right and is cover underneath..

 

You will feel the clutch get firm...

[Pegasus1300]

All of the above is good for bleeding out your clutch but no one has mentioned that you DO NOT fill the resevoir all the way.The engine heat makes the fluid expand and since it has no where to go it pushes on the clutch and causes it to slip.You only need to fill it to about 1/4 of the sight glass.

[Yamamike]

Air in the line, yes that's what I think may be the problem. Now, I'll bleed it in the morning and hope that fixes it. And I also removed the old fluid from the reservoir and refilled it.

 

If it has not been done before, you should run quite a bit of fresh fluid through there to make sure you flush out ALL the old fluid.

[Nemo]

Thanks! You guys are the Greatest! Shifts like new again. That was scarry when it would try to creep forward at a stop, and even stalled the motor twice. I'm happy again, now.

[Trader]

keep an eye on the level.

 

If you have to keep adding fluid regularly, you could have a leaking clutch slave cyl.

 

You may not notice it because it could drip on top of your collector and just burn off.

 

That's what mine was doing and I had to top up every 2 weeks or so.

 

 

 

At least that is what I'm assuming because there was never a drop under the bike!!!!

[JohnT]

So yesterday I am having a terrible time getting her to shift. Has been creeping in that direction for a bit. Did I notice the fluid level dropping in the mater cylinder over time? That would be a no.

I'm 40 miles from home so I stop in a Stewarts Shop and get a bottle of brake fluid. Thank to the P.O. having the Yamaha tool kit intact, plus a few additions like a quality 3/8 drive ratchet and other odds and ends I am able to get the screws out of the master cylinder. It did require a bit of "setting" the fillips into one screw with tapping of the handle with said 3/8 drive Hammer. Er ratchet.

So I get her home and this morning find this thread. After trying to follow all the information here I still had no luck and walked away. On my return I forgot I had left the cover off the master cylinder and the bleeder open to gravity bleed. I hit the lever and fluid comes out the bleeder and bubbles in the res. (insert favorite curse words here) I fill the res and start over again. Instant popping from the bleeder. The first timer things felt like they were going right. This is long winded enough already so, the clutch lever now is actually working. I assume I have a leaking slave cuz I never have seen a drip and I am obviously losing fluid over time.

Thanks for the thread, saved me a bunch of money and aggravation.

Oh, yeah, one more thing. For those who may not know. (and actually I remembered reading it here somewhere once the oil started draining) If you decide to remove the cover to get a better look at the slave, one of the allen bolts, low and middle one, will drain your clutch basket of oil. I threaded it back in with minimal loss.

[Idrys]

Having the  same issue.  Great thread, will attempt this tomorrow.  I am mentally exhausted today having changed the engine oil and filter.  Exhausted because me and spanners are not a marriage made in heaven and I was sure I would mess it up somehow, but it would appear (no drops under the bike) that I was successful.  BTW i did not remove the lower plastic around the filter housing because the allen bolts were rounded out and still managed OK.

 

thanks again

 

Paul

[larrydr]

Engine oil changes , flush cooling system, flush clutch lines , flush brake lines are things that make for a better running bike and a happier rider

Edited July 29, 2021 by larrydr
spelling errors

[Marcarl]

On 6/2/2013 at 11:56 AM, JohnT said:

Oh, yeah, one more thing. For those who may not know. (and actually I remembered reading it here somewhere once the oil started draining) If you decide to remove the cover to get a better look at the slave, one of the allen bolts, low and middle one, will drain your clutch basket of oil. I threaded it back in with minimal loss.

Just so you are aware, the oil tat drained for you as you pulled that bolt is none other than engine oil, the very same stuff that you pour into the engine on the other side. When you do an oil change there will be some oil left in the pan for the pan has 2 wells. The 2nd well can be drained by removing that bolt and waiting, waiting, waiting. Don't loose the sealing washer (copper) from that bolt or it will drip.

[saddlebum]

33 minutes ago, Marcarl said:

Just so you are aware, the oil tat drained for you as you pulled that bolt is none other than engine oil, the very same stuff that you pour into the engine on the other side. When you do an oil change there will be some oil left in the pan for the pan has 2 wells. The 2nd well can be drained by removing that bolt and waiting, waiting, waiting. Don't loose the sealing washer (copper) from that bolt or it will drip.

This is true, in fact you will drain an additional 1/4 to 1/3 cup of oil through this bolt after having drained through the main drain plug. Not draining this additional oil when doing an oil change and I am not saying you have too, is why often after changing oil and running the bike and then shutting it down to recheck your oil level, your new oil mysteriously gets darker faster than you think it should.