OrlinEngh Posted September 12, 2012 Share #1 Posted September 12, 2012 How do these come out. If one goes bad will it leak coolant into the oil and not leak to the outside by the spark plug. I noticed that the coolant level went down and added some and noticed that the oil level has came up. I just got this cycle and I hope that it is not junk it still sounds good no bearing noise so maybe I have caught this early enough. Orlin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muffinman Posted September 12, 2012 Share #2 Posted September 12, 2012 Orin are you talking the water pump joint? Most likely your twinkie is leaking its actually a oil to water cooler type of thing do or have a radiator pressure test done if no other leaking spots are found that's where I would start then I would go to the waterpump (seen that one too) Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrlinEngh Posted September 12, 2012 Author Share #3 Posted September 12, 2012 Its behind the spark plug you pull the pin out, then what how do you pull it out of there Orlin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icebrrg3rd Posted September 13, 2012 Share #4 Posted September 13, 2012 This piece, the one circled in the first pic, which runs between the timing chain (rectangle in second pic). I had to remove them as I needed to swap heads. As for trying to grip them from the outside, I tried on those flat flanges with a pliers and they just crumbled. I finally removed them by going from the inside by grabbing with a vice grips and rotating, then they "broke" loose and came out fairly easy. There is an o-ring seal on it. They went back in fairly easily too (re-used them, and the o-rings too!). I don't have an actual pics of the part on hand right now, tho. -Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted September 13, 2012 Share #5 Posted September 13, 2012 This piece, the one circled in the first pic, which runs between the timing chain (rectangle in second pic). I had to remove them as I needed to swap heads. -Andrew In the second picture above, there is a plug in the head directly over the water joint. If you remove this plug, you will then see the plastic water plug in the hole. There is a small hole in the water joint that a small round tool can be inserted into. This will allow the water joint to be worked out without destroying it. I have done this now on several motors succesfully. Bad part is, I don't know if it can be done with motor in frame. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icebrrg3rd Posted September 13, 2012 Share #6 Posted September 13, 2012 See, all it takes is a pic and someone with more knowledge comes along to help. Oh, and if your coolant is not completely drained it will leak into the engine (oil) when you pull that part out. So plan on an oil change too. -Andrew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SaltyDog Posted September 13, 2012 Share #7 Posted September 13, 2012 I purchased my 1983 standard as a basket case 3 years ago due to the owner thinking the head gasket was bad and leaking coolant into the oil. He disassembled the bike and then lost interest in the project. My good fortune is the bike sat for a number of years in the classic shed gathering dust and pissing off the wife. I got the project for $300.00 and reassembled the bike to test it out. After getting enough of it back together to start up I found that it did have water in the oil, but had good compression in the cylinders and no excess pressure in the cooling system. Upon close inspection of the weap hole under the water pump I found one of the previous owners had filled it with silicone sealant. I guess he thought that he was fixing a leak by plugging the hole in the case. When I cleaned it up I got coolant AND oil out the weap hole. I ordered a new water pump kit (impeller, bearings and seals) along with a new oil seal for the impeller drive shaft and put it all back together. I flushed the engine by changing the oil four times with new oil and filters untill the drained oil showed no signs of coolant in the oil. I got lucky with the engine since it wasn't run much once both oil and coolant seals let go. I inspected the cam shafts and removed the lower cover and cleaned the oil pump and screen and found all looked good without any rust. The engine doesn't knock or use any oil and the new seals have performed their tasks perfectly since installation. It pays to check the weap hole since it will give you a early warning of which seal is failing and prevent cross contamination from the coolant ceramic seal to the water pump shaft drive oil seal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted September 13, 2012 Share #8 Posted September 13, 2012 Attached are a couple of pictures looking into the port with the plug removed. The hole that is seen in 1st picture is in he plastic joint. 2nd picture shows a screwdriver in hole, then I tap against side of screwdriver to get joint loose. Last picture is removed joint laying on top of head. Cam chain isn't seen, I slid it back into head to get a few pictures. This motor was in rough shape, usually they look better than this one. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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