frankd Posted August 14, 2012 Share #1 Posted August 14, 2012 I recently purchased a valve shim tool on flea bay, and when it arrived it has the original Yammie part number engraved on it. When I purchased it, I knew that I had 1 intake valve that was slightly tight, so today I dug in. Now, I've changed shims before, but I've never used the correct tool. I figured that using it would be straighforward....that didn't work though. I looked in the online manual and found the proceedure. Heck, I even printed the 2 pages and took them out to the garage. I can get it to push the valve down some, but not enough to get the shim out of the bucket. The shim is loose and will come up some, but not enough to come out. The tool is hitting part of the head casting when it gets about 30 degrees past straight up and it's pushing on the bucket, not the shim. Does it matter which way you use the tool? What I mean is that you can use it on the outside of the V (in my case, towards the carb for an intake valve OR with the tool in the inside, or forward of the camshaft. It's to the point the maybe I'm doing something wrong, or maybe the tool isn't made correctly. Frank D. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etcswjoe Posted August 14, 2012 Share #2 Posted August 14, 2012 Put a little pressue on it when you rotate the engine to make sure it catches right away and you should get plenty of room, I just did one bike Saturday and doing the other this week, a magnet tiped screwdriver will also make the job easier. Also look in the tech library at Gooses wirte up he gives some tips also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dacheedah Posted August 14, 2012 Share #3 Posted August 14, 2012 I wish we had video to watch, I am a visual learner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
etcswjoe Posted August 14, 2012 Share #4 Posted August 14, 2012 I wish we had video to watch, I am a visual learner. I was planning on taking pictures but a video may be better Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frankd Posted August 14, 2012 Author Share #5 Posted August 14, 2012 Well, actually V7Goose's description of the process did it for me. Following some of his hints, I got the shim to come out easily. Although, I couldn't find his proceedure in the 1st Gen or the Gen. folders in the tech section. However, I did an advanced search for shim, and written by v7goose, and it appeared. It's for a 2nd gen, so it's probably in that folder. Joe, Your tip about holding it tight so it follows the cam better is also very good--Thanks. Now I've got to go to a dealer(actually a very good dealer, Rich's Yamaha in Lockport IL) and get a 285 or a 287 shim. The intake was a very loose .003", and it had a 290 shim. I had a 282, but that took it to a tight .006". When I purchased my 83 new, the mechanic at the dealer told me that Yammie had instructed them to set the valves at the tight end of spec, so I'll get a shim between 282 and 290. Frank D. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted August 14, 2012 Share #6 Posted August 14, 2012 The valves get tighter with wear, by setting them all on the tight side it means you will need to do them more often. This would be a good thing for the dealer. By setting them to the loose side you will have less chance of getting to tight and burning a valve. I would love to hear WHY yami says they should be on the tight side. On the other hand, The tighter you set them the farther the valve will open and in theory give SLIGHTLY more top end HP and slightly less peak torque. Setting them looser will give you slightly better torque and slightly less top end. But I'll bet you do not spend a whole lot of time a WOT to get the benefit of slightly more HP. I am getting close to doing this on my bike. I do have an older but high end (at the time) video camera, I could video it but would need someone to convert from Hi8 tape or SVHS to digital. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djh3 Posted August 14, 2012 Share #7 Posted August 14, 2012 I am waiting until Bob gets the super Zoomy new and improved valve tools made. Still probably wont need to adjust, but should check soon I guess. Sitting @ 14500 now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RandyR Posted August 14, 2012 Share #8 Posted August 14, 2012 I am waiting until Bob gets the super Zoomy new and improved valve tools made. Still probably wont need to adjust, but should check soon I guess. Sitting @ 14500 now. 26,000 is when the book says to check them. And thats a very conservative interval. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djh3 Posted August 15, 2012 Share #9 Posted August 15, 2012 Cool Beans, got a long way to go then. Like maybe January. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBear Posted August 16, 2012 Share #10 Posted August 16, 2012 I've got a 188MB (HD quality) video of how to insert and use the valve shim tool, turn the bucket to be able to remove the shim, remove the shim, etc. However, it's got a LOT of chatter (helper, wife, visitors, etc). I'd be willing to send it to anyone that wouldnt mind editing out the audio, compressing it to a more web-friendly version, then posting it to the Tech Library on this site. Any takers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snaggletooth Posted August 16, 2012 Share #11 Posted August 16, 2012 Hey Walt, PM sent. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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