Clutch won't completely disengage????

[Nemo]

Clutch won't competely disengage? How do I adjust the clutch pull cable? Coming to a stop and holding the clutch lever in, the bike wants to creep ahead. Sometimes this will stall the engine and then it's hard to crank over because of the low gear drag on the starter. I know it's probably an easy fix, but I need your help. Owen.

[BuddyRich]

Your clutch is hydraulic so check your fluid. It probably needs changing

[KIC]

I just had similar problems last week. I changed all the fluid while bleeding the crap out of it . Worked like a charm .

[Nemo]

OK, like the saying goes -live and learn. Now I need the process to remove the oil, to bleed the line and what oil to use for replacement.

[utadventure]

Nemo-

 

Easy to do! Likely the fluid is old and discolored.

 

Open the clutch master cylinder.

With an eye dropper, remove the fluid and wipe it clean.

Fill with DOT3 brake fluid

Go to the slave cylinder end, 8mm wrench

Put a clear piece of hose on the bleed valve and run it into container.

Pump up and hold the clutch lever - release the bleeder valve and reclose

Release and clutch lever and repeat until the fluid in the clutch line in changed out (if discolored, until it's completely clear).

 

Be sure keep fluid in the master cylinder.

 

Finally, have the master cylinder about 2/3 full and replace the cap.

 

Ride, ride, ride!!

[Nemo]

Thanks David! Good instructions. Sounds like that will work. Got to take to boss out to dinner pretty soon now, so I'll attack that project in the morning. Man I love this forum! Owen.

[Nemo]

But, now I have probably really dumb questions. Where is this slave cylinder located and what does it look like? Sorry!

[Squidley]

But, now I have probably really dumb questions. Where is this slave cylinder located and what does it look like? Sorry!

 

Left side of the bike (while sitting on it) the 2 circular covers on the motor. The fwd one is your stator cover, the one behind it, towards the rear of the bike is your middle gear cover. There is a 1 1/4" square rubber pad about halfway up the distance and directly between the covers. Flip it up and there is the bleeder for the clutch...

[Nemo]

Wow! You guys are one "Smart" group. And "Thanks" to you too, Brad. You make it look too easy! I'm learning though. It makes me feel good all over, more than anywhere else! Ha! Owen

[Squidley]

My cell # is in my profile Owen, if you ruin into difficulties just give me a call. I can walk you right through it over the phone.

[Stanman]

Wow! You guys are one "Smart" group. And "Thanks" to you too, Brad. You make it look too easy! I'm learning though. It makes me feel good all over, more than anywhere else! Ha! Owen

 

Yep, this is a great site with some of the greatest friends you you will ever make.

On this alone you've got more than your $12 worth in information.

[playboy]

I thought these bikes used DOT 4 brake fluid hmm have to run to the shop to check my owners manual.

 

 

Yep Dot 4 page 7-29 owners manual

 

Edited August 1, 2012 by playboy

[pmelah]

Nemo-

 

Easy to do! Likely the fluid is old and discolored.

 

Open the clutch master cylinder.

With an eye dropper, remove the fluid and wipe it clean.

Fill with DOT3 brake fluid :no-no-no:

Go to the slave cylinder end, 8mm wrench

Put a clear piece of hose on the bleed valve and run it into container.

Pump up and hold the clutch lever - release the bleeder valve and reclose

Release and clutch lever and repeat until the fluid in the clutch line in changed out (if discolored, until it's completely clear).

 

Be sure keep fluid in the master cylinder.

 

Finally, have the master cylinder about 2/3 full and replace the cap.

 

Ride, ride, ride!!

 

I thought these bikes used DOT 4 brake fluid hmm have to run to the shop to check my owners manual.

 

 

Yep Dot 4 page 7-29 owners manual :cool10:

 

 

 

boy i hate this i changed the color to highlit something and now it wont go back to black

i got it back in black now oh yea its dot 4 or 5. 5 is expensive and sometimes hard to find dot 4 not so much easier to find and not muchmore then dot 3 but better i think dont know just know it cost more and yammahaaaaa says put it in

[Guest scarylarry]

Be sure your bars are turn far to the right or else the piston can suck air from the left

[Squidley]

FWIW, DOT 3 and 4 are compatible together, the only real difference is DOT 4 has a higher boiling point, so either can be used in any of the Ventures.

[playboy]

FWIW, DOT 3 and 4 are compatible together, the only real difference is DOT 4 has a higher boiling point, so either can be used in any of the Ventures.

 

 

That mean its good for riding in the mountains

[KIC]

BE VERY CAREFUL ..cover all your plastic (ABS) with a thick rag.

 

When you pump the clutch lever it will spit it out at you. I use a hand vacuum pump I got at Harbor Freight. I used the vacuum pump to remove the fluid in the reservoir then used it to bleed all the fluid through the lines from the bottom bleeder.

 

The fluid will destroy your plastic..so cover it all !

[Gray Ghost]

I noticed one post mentioned DOT 5. DOT 5 is not compatible with any of the others. There is a DOT 5.5 that is compatible with 3 or 4. The higher the number, the higher the boiling point.

[Rocket]

I noticed one post mentioned DOT 5. DOT 5 is not compatible with any of the others. There is a DOT 5.5 that is compatible with 3 or 4. The higher the number, the higher the boiling point.

 

I think he meant the 5.5, but typed it 5. 5 (possibly to confuse 2nd genners),,,

[Squeeze]

Actually, the compatible Fluid is named DOT 5.1

[Nemo]

OK, got it all done and it shifts like new again. Very nice! Also did the front brake at the same time.

[Flyinfool]

Now you just need to do the rear brake and then you can say you are ALL done.

[Yammer Dan]

I've been all thru my 86 and it still shifts harder than it should. The 85 shifts so easy you can hardly feel it. 86 shifts good but just a lot harder or clunks into gear? Difference between 71k and 25k?