djh3 Posted July 30, 2012 Share #1 Posted July 30, 2012 Well looking for some info guys. If we can get some info on the measurments for the valve tool I have a very talented person that may attempt to make a couple if it wouldnt end up costing more than just buying one. Here is a pic of the dimensions we need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snaggletooth Posted July 30, 2012 Share #2 Posted July 30, 2012 PM Flyinfool, He's been working on making them. Last I heard they were "out for testing". He might be able to help ya out. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted July 30, 2012 Share #3 Posted July 30, 2012 Attached is a PDF of one I used when I was looking at having them made. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Myers Posted July 30, 2012 Share #4 Posted July 30, 2012 Why Stainless Gary? Will it get hardened and passivated? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted July 31, 2012 Share #5 Posted July 31, 2012 Why Stainless Gary? Will it get hardened and passivated? One of the guys I talked to about making this was leaning towards the 17-4. Said it was fairly machinable, then could be hardened to get a decent strength. I didn't pursue this due to the high quotes I was getting and the problems that some have had even with the stock Yamaha tool breaking. I needed to order a 100 at a time to get a price in the high 30's. Didn't seem worth the risk for the low volume that could be sold. And the valve tool has a much more limited target group than the steering bearing wrench I sell. That wrench fits about a hundred Yamaha models and is a much more likely tool for the average guy to want than a valve tool. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djh3 Posted July 31, 2012 Author Share #6 Posted July 31, 2012 So Bob does that answer our questions? LOL I know you were cautious on the heat treat. Looking more like its buy one huh? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Myers Posted July 31, 2012 Share #7 Posted July 31, 2012 well, for a one pice deal yes, as gary had mentioned the initial cost of one is killer high. If we were doing 10 or more we could get the price down to a reasonable $40.00 or so. I have not however seen mention of 8 more people wanting one. Gary, any one over on the vmax forum use these? Maybe you could hawk a couple over there? I would prefer making them from tool steel instead of stainless, the hardness/brittleness is more predictable than SS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miles Posted July 31, 2012 Share #8 Posted July 31, 2012 If you make it...I will buy one ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted July 31, 2012 Share #9 Posted July 31, 2012 Here is a whole bunch of info http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=55831 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djh3 Posted August 1, 2012 Author Share #10 Posted August 1, 2012 OK one of the pictures ther confuses me as I have not yet done valves on this motor yet. This gizmo fits under the cam and against the bucket of 2 adjoining cyl. Do you turn the motor over to get it in place or somehow grab the poor nubby end that is there and rotate it to force the buckets down. On the FJ 1200 the tool bolts down to a cam cap and a "finger" pushes the bucket down sort of like the pic with the piece of all thread and flat metal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiCarl Posted August 1, 2012 Share #11 Posted August 1, 2012 The cam has a hex shape made into it that engages the tool. You rotate the crankshaft to pull the tool around - depressing the buckets. It's not adjoining cylinders though. It's two valves on the same cylinder. The Venture has 2 intake and 2 exhaust valves per cylinder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djh3 Posted August 1, 2012 Author Share #12 Posted August 1, 2012 OK yup forgot that dual valve thing. So to get tool out you rotate motor backwards? Or the tool turns thru? Also Bob I put a note out on another Venture fourm I'm on to see if there is any interest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted August 1, 2012 Share #13 Posted August 1, 2012 CAD drawings attached of usage. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RandyR Posted August 1, 2012 Share #14 Posted August 1, 2012 OK yup forgot that dual valve thing. . So to get tool out you rotate motor backwards? Yes Or the tool turns thru? no Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yammer Dan Posted August 1, 2012 Share #15 Posted August 1, 2012 At 40 bucks I'm in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ragtop69gs Posted August 1, 2012 Share #16 Posted August 1, 2012 Keep an eye on fleabay I picked up the Yamaha shim tool new, for $35 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djh3 Posted August 1, 2012 Author Share #17 Posted August 1, 2012 OH my I know on the FJ motor if you turned it backwards you had to then rotate forward as your cams were not actually where the timing is set up. I guess it dont matter as your not running it that way and the plugs are out. Well I'm guessing the plugs are out to make it easier to turn thru. Then turn motor thru once or twice correct way before putting plugs in and firing up. Just seems an odd way to do things imop. By the way the other post I put out for buyers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RandyR Posted August 1, 2012 Share #18 Posted August 1, 2012 The tool is used for removing the shims. It is NOT used when checking the clearance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trader Posted August 1, 2012 Share #19 Posted August 1, 2012 Hope I'm not highjacking this thread TOOOO much:whistling: I'm totally ignorant of this procedure... and don't have experience as a mechanic on the internal parts so could some one help me understand a bit more? During the rotation of the cam some of the lobes would be engaged, pressing against the valve stems with the valves partially open or closed. Some lobes would be totally free at any given time. So wouldn't you have to use the tool to rotate the cam to check clearances? or would you just use the rear wheel? Are there any good pictures of the shims etc....the pictures in the online manual are so dark you can't really see any details. I would be interested in a tool....and lots of help when the time comes..but I'm brave (or stupid) enough that I'm willing to try just about anything. I mean...what can go wrong right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted August 1, 2012 Share #20 Posted August 1, 2012 I am in !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Myers Posted August 1, 2012 Share #21 Posted August 1, 2012 Hope I'm not highjacking this thread TOOOO much:whistling: .but I'm brave (or stupid) enough that I'm willing to try just about anything. I mean...what can go wrong right? Ah, a man after my own heart! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted August 1, 2012 Share #22 Posted August 1, 2012 I am in !! OK, I have a couple of stupid questions..... Why does this thing need to be hardened, or made out of steel?? It just compresses the valve spring, who cares how accurate it compresses them?? How many times will it be used in it's lifetime?? Also why can't it be made out of easier to machine T-6 aluminum??? Heck, I bet it could be made out of plastic... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Myers Posted August 1, 2012 Share #23 Posted August 1, 2012 I read of someone breaking one of these, unknown as to why or what caused the malfunction but, there would be a reasonable reason. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted August 1, 2012 Share #24 Posted August 1, 2012 I read of someone breaking one of these, unknown as to why or what caused the malfunction but, there would be a reasonable reason. If there were more than just hearsay about one tool breaking it might be a good reason, but my stupid questions still stand... MOF I can't imagine how anyone could have broken one of these tools unless it was misused?? or there was a big flaw in the casting??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted August 1, 2012 Share #25 Posted August 1, 2012 It was not just rumor. The ones I made were out of 1045 steel. The first one did break in half. Not sure if it is because it was to weak or user error. I have since added more metal to the weak area. There has not yet been a chance to try the newest version. I have read about a few of the OEM ones breaking to. That is why everyone that has a shim kit to loan out has the disclaimer that if you break the tool you replace it. I think that even 7075-T6 aluminum will be to soft and may not even last thru one cycle of replacing all of the shims before it wears out on the ramps. Aluminum rubbing on sharp edges of hardened steel does not last long. The cost of the tool is not in the material, it is in the labor and tooling. It would take almost as long for me to make one out of aluminum as it did out of steel. There is actually a lot of force on that poor little tool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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