timgray Posted July 17, 2012 Share #1 Posted July 17, 2012 I want to add a single pushbutton that will override the fan sensor and run the cooling fan, but then reset when I start moving. I know how to wire up 3 relays to do a latch on fron a single press of a button and use a 12V trigger to reset it. I figure I can use the Turn signal cancel signal that will cancel the turn signals when you go above 25mph to reset my fan override. Does anyone know where that signal comes from and if it is 12 volts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest tx2sturgis Posted July 17, 2012 Share #2 Posted July 17, 2012 (edited) I want to add a single pushbutton that will override the fan sensor and run the cooling fan, but then reset when I start moving. I know how to wire up 3 relays to do a latch on fron a single press of a button and use a 12V trigger to reset it. I figure I can use the Turn signal cancel signal that will cancel the turn signals when you go above 25mph to reset my fan override. Does anyone know where that signal comes from and if it is 12 volts? Interesting, but keep in mind that if the bike is idling, and the fan is left running for an extended period, it COULD drain the battery. The engine fan pulls quite a few amps, and is meant to run interrmitently. I would think a better use for that manual overide would be when pulling a long grade in the summer, tugging a trailer behind. I assume the sensor goes to ground when it is triggered, but actually not sure. A peak at a wiring diagram and a test light applied to the correct terminals would provide the answer. Edited July 17, 2012 by tx2sturgis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frankd Posted July 17, 2012 Share #3 Posted July 17, 2012 (edited) Tim, The temperature switch that controls the fan is on the right side of the motor, about even with the lower edge of the fairing. You will see two devices there, the one with 2 wires on it is your temperature gauge sensor, and the one with a single wire is the temperature switch---it'll have a blue/green wire, and it runs the fan by grounding this wire. Connect your new circuit to the blue/green wire, and design your circuit to ground this wire when you want the fan to run. One way to go would be to use a time delay relay. Then you could push the button and the fan would run for as long as you select (3-5 minutes?) and then shut off. If you need it again, just push the button again. That would be a lot simpler than a speed sensor. I did look and 12 volt time delay relays are available. If you decide to go this way, let me know and I'll help with selecting the relay. There are some on EBAY for about $7.50, but I'm not 100% sure they are exactly what we'd want yet. BTW, the turn signals don't turn off when you get above 25 MPH. They stay on until you've gone enough distance AND enough time has gone by since the signals were turned on. Frank D. Edited July 17, 2012 by frankd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timgray Posted July 17, 2012 Author Share #4 Posted July 17, 2012 (edited) Not on my bike, I'm generating 14.5 volts at idle I have a hot shot stator and a FJR R&R. I'm charging if the fan is on, high beam is on, passing lights on and the stereo cranked at idle. I hit stop and go traffic a lot and on really hot days, I'd rather the fan kick on and stay on while I am creeping instead of what it does now and runs for 60 seconds, then off for 2 minutes, then run for 60 seconds.... That way it's not used for extended periods of time, only when the bike is not moving in stop and go traffic. The bike already has a speed sensor on it, It's what all Ventures use to shut off the turn signal for us. I think it's the White-Green wire it switches or pulses to ground, The cancel circuit will trip for time or speed. At least that is how it's supposed to work. That is what I read in the service manual... Maybe it's distance, which will also work as it will turn off the override as soon as I move the bike, Even creeping at 10 mph the bike will stay cool, it's only when it's 120 out and I am stopped in traffic when I feel it needs more cooling. EDIT: Ok I misread, It seems the sensor goes to ground when it senses the bike moving for turn signal cancel, that's easy enough to rewire the reset relay to use ground instead. Perfect! I'll post a schematic of how to wire such an animal! Edited July 17, 2012 by timgray Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest tx2sturgis Posted July 17, 2012 Share #5 Posted July 17, 2012 Not on my bike, I'm generating 14.5 volts at idle I have a hot shot stator and a FJR R&R. I'm charging if the fan is on, high beam is on, passing lights on and the stereo cranked at idle. I hit stop and go traffic a lot and on really hot days, I'd rather the fan kick on and stay on while I am creeping instead of what it does now and runs for 60 seconds, then off for 2 minutes, then run for 60 seconds.... The bike already has a speed sensor on it, It's what all Ventures use to shut off the turn signal for us. I think it's the White-Green wire but I dont know if it's a 12 volt signal or something else. If it's 12 Volts, that will reset the relays perfectly. Ok...if youre saying the new stator and RR can handle the load at idle, then would it be possible to add a small pusher fan at the front of the radiator? That might be the answer. Install your relay so that the OD light, when activated, (thru a small 12v reed relay in parallel with the bulb) will de-energize the fan relay. Just a thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest tx2sturgis Posted July 17, 2012 Share #6 Posted July 17, 2012 Maybe something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-RED-7-12V-ELECTRIC-RADIATOR-ENGINE-COOLING-FAN-MOUNTING-STRAP-KIT-/170878004311?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27c91f6c57&vxp=mtr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timgray Posted July 17, 2012 Author Share #7 Posted July 17, 2012 Oh I like that idea! I need to see if I can find a thin one that is not bright Red. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest tx2sturgis Posted July 17, 2012 Share #8 Posted July 17, 2012 Oh I like that idea! I need to see if I can find a thin one that is not bright Red. I dont know what color your bike is, and black would probably be the least noticeable on any bike, but if sized correctly, it should lessen the load on the main fan, and also keep the engine temps stable, and you wont have to tap into the main harness, other than for power. I have no idea if this would work out well....it would also depend on the clearance of the front fender in that area, especially as the forks move left to right, and the fender moves up and down when the bike is in motion. I would check those clearances before I made any decisions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryZ Posted July 17, 2012 Share #9 Posted July 17, 2012 Maybe something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/UNIVERSAL-RED-7-12V-ELECTRIC-RADIATOR-ENGINE-COOLING-FAN-MOUNTING-STRAP-KIT-/170878004311?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27c91f6c57&vxp=mtr There is a possibility that a 'pusher' fan mounted to the front of your radiator could reduce/disrupt normal air flow and cause the bike to run hotter at cruise . . . something to keep in mind Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest tx2sturgis Posted July 17, 2012 Share #10 Posted July 17, 2012 There is a possibility that a 'pusher' fan mounted to the front of your radiator could reduce/disrupt normal air flow and cause the bike to run hotter at cruise . . . something to keep in mind If thats the case, maybe we should remove the front wheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted July 17, 2012 Share #11 Posted July 17, 2012 There is a possibility that a 'pusher' fan mounted to the front of your radiator could reduce/disrupt normal air flow and cause the bike to run hotter at cruise . . . something to keep in mind That is what I was thinking too. A rattle can of paint for plastics can make that fan any color you want. Don't let Cougar find this post, 3 relays all hooked together, he'll be orgasmic and start drooling on his keyboard and stuff ........ I hit stop and go traffic a lot and on really hot days, I'd rather the fan kick on and stay on while I am creeping instead of what it does now and runs for 60 seconds, then off for 2 minutes, then run for 60 seconds.... That way it's not used for extended periods of time, only when the bike is not moving in stop and go traffic.It sounds like you are looking for a way to stop the bike from running at its designed temp. If the fan is cycling on and off in stop and go traffic then it is working correctly and the engine is running at its designed temp. Just like it should. If you have a switch to turn the fan on and keep it on, you will be running the fan a lot more than if you did nothing. right now it runs for 1 out of 3 minutes, you want it to run for 3 out of 3 minutes. this will cause more extended running that stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest tx2sturgis Posted July 17, 2012 Share #12 Posted July 17, 2012 It sounds like you are looking for a way to stop the bike from running at its designed temp. If the fan is cycling on and off in stop and go traffic then it is working correctly and the engine is running at its designed temp. Just like it should. I think Tim is trying to stablize the engine temp, for whatever reason, rather than have it vary widely. Of course, the thermostat for the coolant will prevent the engine from getting below its normal temps, assuming its in good shape. Even if the fan was running continously, it should not be able to cool the motor too much, since the thermostat will close and prevent much coolant from flowing thru the radiator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted July 17, 2012 Share #13 Posted July 17, 2012 Or put a lower temp therm-o-stat in. This is a 200 deg. sensor. http://www.ebay.com/itm/271015669717?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 or http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vmax-V-max-Coolant-Temperature-Lowering-Switch-Sender-/140779478144?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20c71c5c80&vxp=mtr Picture of dash was when I pulled into garage & air temp was in 90's Also, a lesson learned when I had a bypass switch with an LED indicator in it was that the LED will back feed and blow the fan fuse. This happened in a repeatable state recently. The switch was providing 12V+ to the thermostat sensor on the blue wire. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkuhr Posted July 17, 2012 Share #14 Posted July 17, 2012 Due to my modified Turn Flasher, I know the cancel signal is: normal no turns or start turns=open, turns time out and cancel until hard reset of turn switch, or power cycle of mc=+12v It comes from the cancel relay assy under right fairing, but is most easy accessable at the 3 pin turn signal flasher pin 'C', located behind left front turn lens and under air duct. It only operates after a signaled turn has BOTH, driven 150meters (490 feet) as per the reed switch on the odo, AND 10 seconds. Defined as which ever is longer. I have trouble seeing how this could be used for a fan control. I agree with Flyingfool, your system is working correctly while cycling, but if you have a reason for pursuing this, 1. I might suggest that the fan temp switch control a time delay relay (easy to use a standard relay and create a RC (resistor/capicator) time delay). Then the delay relay controls the fan relay. The delay could be set for what ever felt right-3 minutes or so, or even be adjustable with a variable resistor. 2. second suggestion would be for some air pressure switch capable of sensing forward movement above ~5mph would cause your latching relay to latch pic is my working modified flasher for LEDs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest tx2sturgis Posted July 17, 2012 Share #15 Posted July 17, 2012 Does the 1st gen have an OD light for overdrive? If so, then it seems like a trigger to deactivate the override (override the override?) would be to use the OD light. If you reach a high enough speed to use overdrive, then its time to kill the fan, since the airflow will take over for the fan. The button or switch will have to be pressed again to reactivate the fan override. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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