Pappa Bear Posted January 14, 2008 Share #1 Posted January 14, 2008 I have an 89 royale that is leaking oil from something? maybe a crossover?! It is between the heads at their base, this thing runs from one side to the other and has a bango fitting on it w/small hose going somewhere. How should I fix it? #2 question --- I believe my bike to have a diaphram issue, does anyone have pics on step by step repair and how to step by step repair? I've read something about liquid tape or yamabond? All help is good help. I just bought it couple months ago, don't know alot about it except it has 28k on it one owner, and I don't think he did anything to the carbs. It starts fine but it definitely doesn't have the power it should! I did check the temps of the exhaust right at the header, soon after startup at idle the rear 2 are in the 360 degree range and front 2 slowly climbed to 185 and on up, but nowhere near the rear 2 exhausts temps, checked for spark in the fronts, both ok. When you really twist the throttle she tends to come to life a little. I'm hoping it to be a diaphram issue. Thanks for any responses:feedback: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venturous Randy Posted January 15, 2008 Share #2 Posted January 15, 2008 My first thought with you having that much difference with exhaust temps is you need to do a good carb sync. It sounds like the bike is running mostly off the rear carbs at low speeds. I have had good luck using Liquid Tape to patch the diaphragms and have found that the key factors is to have the parts real clean and make sure the Liquid Tape is very cured before you reassemble them. I use brake cleaner and then alcohol to clean and after I put the Liquid Tape on, I like to leave the diaphragms in the sun for several hours. I have tried Yamabond and found that it made stiff places in the diaphragms RandyA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted January 15, 2008 Share #3 Posted January 15, 2008 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gearhead Posted January 15, 2008 Share #4 Posted January 15, 2008 If your diaphragms are too far gone like mine were, new ones will hit you for about 60 bucks a pop x4. Check them out first though. I looked at one of mine, it was shot, the bike is 20 years old, so I ordered 4. When I went to do the replacement, I found that one had already been replaced. Jeremy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pappa Bear Posted January 15, 2008 Author Share #5 Posted January 15, 2008 Thanks for the suggestions, I never thought about carb synk but it does make sense. I'll be sure to check all the diaphrams before I order anything. If I use the liquid tape I'll be sure to use the cleaning suggestions. They say there is no stupid question, but where are those little buggers ( diaphrams ) actually located in the carb? Ron in coooooooooold Castalia Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hipshot Posted January 15, 2008 Share #6 Posted January 15, 2008 n, the diaphragms are located , just below, each carb. they are behind a square housing, with a slight dome on them. one of the FOUR screws, that holds the covers on, is NOT a phillips head. i believe in it a "torx", type screw. just jt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pappa Bear Posted January 16, 2008 Author Share #7 Posted January 16, 2008 I see. I looked at mine, are these square slightly domed pieces about 2 inches wide or a little more with maybe 3 little ridges running up and down them? , and are they all facing outward? Thanks Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cliffno350 Posted January 16, 2008 Share #8 Posted January 16, 2008 thats them all facing out theres a little o ring under the cover you need to watch for also to not loose and make sure its in good shap also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venturous Randy Posted January 16, 2008 Share #9 Posted January 16, 2008 If you do not have one of the "torque" type screw drivers with a hole in the center for the pin in the center of the screw, they are getting easy to find or you can break the pin off, or you can take the screw out with a small pair of Vise Grips. In fact, if your screws have never been taken out, you may need the vise grips on several of the screws any way. I replaced my screws with Allen head screws. I can even take my diaphragms out without even taking the side covers off. RandyA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pappa Bear Posted January 16, 2008 Author Share #10 Posted January 16, 2008 OK Now I know where the diaphrams are how about this oil leaking from it. I've been told it may be a crossover? It is between the heads down by the base and runs across the motor. What do I need to do for this? Thanks Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted January 16, 2008 Share #11 Posted January 16, 2008 OK Now I know where the diaphrams are how about this oil leaking from it. I've been told it may be a crossover? It is between the heads down by the base and runs across the motor. What do I need to do for this? Thanks Ron It's not a Crossover, it's the Engine Breather Assembly. But There is Oil and Coolant going through it, as well as the Case Breather. You need new O-Rings. There are two special formed O-Rings and Aluminium Washers for the Banjo Bolt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gearhead Posted January 16, 2008 Share #12 Posted January 16, 2008 I've never heard anyone 'splain how this breather works. My Virago breaths through a simple tube from the crankcase cavity to the airbox, with a couple baffles to keep out excess oil. Why in the world do we need a "breather assy" that also houses coolant and oil? Jeremy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pappa Bear Posted January 17, 2008 Author Share #13 Posted January 17, 2008 Thanks Squeeze, certainly glad to know what it is. Is it a difficult fix? On a side note- I had a friend when we were in grade school that was born in Germany and moved back. He tried to contact me years ago and I've not been able to locate him. Don't have an address or anything. Ron in Castalia, Ohio Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted January 17, 2008 Share #14 Posted January 17, 2008 I've never heard anyone 'splain how this breather works. My Virago breaths through a simple tube from the crankcase cavity to the airbox, with a couple baffles to keep out excess oil. Why in the world do we need a "breather assy" that also houses coolant and oil? Jeremy Well Jeremy, i can not explain, why they made the Breahter the Way they did. I even didn't give it too much Tought. It's like it is and as long you're not going to give some Amphetamins or Steroids to the Engine, there is no need to change something. Just get it redone and be satisfied with it for the next Years. Thanks Squeeze, certainly glad to know what it is. Is it a difficult fix? On a side note- I had a friend when we were in grade school that was born in Germany and moved back. He tried to contact me years ago and I've not been able to locate him. Don't have an address or anything. Ron in Castalia, Ohio No, it's not difficult, just some wrenching needed, because you have to dismount at least the Carbs to reach the Breather Assemly and take it apart. As for locating your Friend, i shoot you a PM back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonm. Posted January 21, 2008 Share #15 Posted January 21, 2008 you do not need to remove the carbs to remove the engine breather in the middle of the "V". But you do need tiny hands or properly designed allen wrench set. Patience is critical here. Dealer did it many years ago for a friend. They did not remove the carbs. You can remove the carbs if you wish. But I would also replace the lower throttle cables while you are in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pappa Bear Posted February 5, 2008 Author Share #16 Posted February 5, 2008 Well I finally had a couple of minutes to pull one of the front carb diaphram covers off today and sure enough a pin hole and another starting. Gonna have to check them all then last but not least change those phillips screws and whatever that other thing is called. What is the easiest way to check carbs for in or out of sync? (other than taking it to yamaha) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted February 5, 2008 Share #17 Posted February 5, 2008 Well I finally had a couple of minutes to pull one of the front carb diaphram covers off today and sure enough a pin hole and another starting. Gonna have to check them all then last but not least change those phillips screws and whatever that other thing is called. What is the easiest way to check carbs for in or out of sync? (other than taking it to yamaha) Well, hook some Vacuum Dial Gauges on it and resynch them ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pappa Bear Posted February 5, 2008 Author Share #18 Posted February 5, 2008 :178: Ok , sounds easy enough!!! Oh one more thing, whats a dial gauge? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squeeze Posted February 6, 2008 Share #19 Posted February 6, 2008 for Example ... http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/Product/tf-Browse/s-10101/Pr-p_Product.CATENTRY_ID:2004169/p-2004169/N-111+10211+600014252/c-10111 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gearhead Posted February 6, 2008 Share #20 Posted February 6, 2008 There are also other gages. Lots of guys here like Morgan Carbtune (I think that's the name). A set of Motion Pro mercury sticks is only 30 or 40 bucks. And some use a homemade tool made of a few dollars worth of tubing and gear oil. This method looks very accurate, but slightly less convenient. Jeremy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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