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hitch length + questions


warp1

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Planning on building a Harbor Freight, flat bed, trailer this weekend. Have to be at work Sunday go going to use the shop space and welder to put it together.

 

For tongue length...1.5 time the axle length right? So if the width is 40 inches, tongue must be 60 inches. Now is that 60 inches out from the axle or 60 inches out from the front of the bed?

 

Going to install the HF LED kit mentioned on here.

 

Ordered a dog box from the diamond deluxe place. They had a special on a leftover trailer from previous order (damn near 50% off) but strange dimenstions, but I think I can make it work. The way I will mount it, it's 72" long, so will overhang the 48" trailer bed, will be to hang 8 inches off the back and weld angle iron to frame it in (extend the bed) and figure the 16" will be out front where the cooler should go (give a little more tongue weight). This sound about right?

 

The width of the box is 24 inches, with the bed only 40"....so I would love to put the box over to 1 side and use the rest for storage...but I think I need to leave it centered so it pulls better, right? This only gives me 8" on each side for bed...not ideal but can make it work....Was just going to cover the open bed areas with the lightest gauge diamond aluminum I can find...to match the box.

 

Initially the box was going to be temporary, only for the trips where I'd take the 2 dogs...but now thinking I'll leave it on and use for (mostly) waterproof storage on camping runs. Should be able to fit the tent, chairs, mattress etc on each side in the 8 inch areas.

 

I've read numerous posts about how to adjust wheel bearings and trailer wiring...so hopefully good-to-go there.

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Bill,

The 1 1/2 times the width is correct, even a little longer is not going to hurt. Now you mention about this being a dog type kennel. Are you actually going to bring dog(s) in this trailer? The 1st thing that comes to mind is if your going to haul dogs, and the dogs are allowed to move freely through out this enclosure. If this is the case, then you need to rethink the geometry of the trailer, as a moving animal in it will throw off tongue weight dramatically.

 

Now if your not hauling an animal in it, then there's no real issue. Make sure the box's center point is slightly fwd of the axle for a bit better weight in the front. You can actually narrow the frame to the width on the box and give it custom look. Here's a few pics of one I did somewhat to the dimensions of the box you bought.

 

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attachment.php?attachmentid=63371&d=1326543756

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=63373&d=1326543756

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=63374&d=1326543756

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=63375&d=1326543756

 

attachment.php?attachmentid=63376&d=1326543756

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Yes...would be for hauling dogs. In motion, they sleep more than anything...so should be pretty stable. How would you change the geometry?

 

Only expect to haul the dogs for 10-20% of the trailer use...just for family visits up in Wisconsin....this way I can take the bike and not the truck :) The rest of the use would be for camping/rally's....without the pups.

 

To clarify.... the 1.5 times for hitch length is from the axle...correct?

 

Nice trailer by the way. I don't think I want to narrow mine because I have one of those quick-set tents, that store long and narrow...so thinking it would ride alongside the dog box.

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Yes...would be for hauling dogs. In motion, they sleep more than anything...so should be pretty stable. How would you change the geometry? I would move the axle further towards the back of the bike. If one or both of the dogs, moved back in the crate, your going to loose tongue weight very fast, and that could be disastrous. How big are the dogs

 

Only expect to haul the dogs for 10-20% of the trailer use...just for family visits up in Wisconsin....this way I can take the bike and not the truck :) The rest of the use would be for camping/rally's....without the pups.

 

To clarify.... the 1.5 times for hitch length is from the axle...correct? Yes, that is correct for running it in the standard position. Now if you move that axle back you'll want to extend the tongue to go back to it. There will be a lot of variables going into how you will tow this trailer with the dogs in it depending on their weight. Weight distribution in any trailer being towed, especially by a bike, is crucial as you need to keep the tongue properly weighted so the trailer doesn't wag behind whats pulling it.

Nice trailer by the way. I don't think I want to narrow mine because I have one of those quick-set tents, that store long and narrow...so thinking it would ride alongside the dog box.

 

Clear as mud right

:thumbsup2:

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What Squid is trying to say is that it is not the actual movement of the dogs that is the problem, it is where they finally lay down to sleep and what the tongue weight ends up at from there. If the dogs head to the back of the trailer and your tongue weight goes away, it could cause you to crash. If the dogs go to sleep at the front you may have way to much tongue weight for the bike to carry.

 

With a 6 foot box I would put in partitions to make the dogs stay in the right place for proper balance.

 

When you calculate the tongue length, you do not use the width of the bed, You use the distance from the center of one wheel to the center of the other wheel.

the 1.5 times is the minimum tongue length measured from the axle to the center of the ball. Mine is closer to 2 times.

On my HF trailer I had to stretch the tongue about 2 feet to get rid of the wagging at freeway speeds. I ordered a new tongue from HF and welded on a chunk of it so that it would match the original tongue. I do have some left if you need some.

 

I found that Rustolium Red was a perfect match to the HF red.

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OK...thanks guys. Now I understand the tongue/hitch length better.

 

To extend the tongue, was just going to use square tubing from the shop or order the correct size here locally.

 

1 dog is 60# (biggest dachshund ever :)) and the other is about 40. I'll consider stuffing something in the boxes to restrict their movement. I guess a few local test runs are in order. :)

 

As far as paint...I was going to coat it all in flat (bar b Q grill) black or something close.

 

I can definitely move the axle back....you think 4 inches is about right (half the distance I'm extending the trailer bed backwards? or should I put all the excess towards the tongue to ensure enough tongue weight? How close to the ball can the box go without obstructing turning? Similar to mounting a cooler up there I would imagine....just 24 inches worth. If I went that route....I may not need to move the axle back.

 

Thanks again for all the input.

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I have no familiarity with the HF trailer. I got mine from Northern Tool. Likely they all come out of the same Chinese factory. There are 2 mounting locations for the tongue. The forward location should give you the correct length.

 

Planning on building a Harbor Freight, flat bed, trailer this weekend. Have to be at work Sunday go going to use the shop space and welder to put it together.

 

For tongue length...1.5 time the axle length right? So if the width is 40 inches, tongue must be 60 inches. Now is that 60 inches out from the axle or 60 inches out from the front of the bed?

 

Going to install the HF LED kit mentioned on here.

 

Ordered a dog box from the diamond deluxe place. They had a special on a leftover trailer from previous order (damn near 50% off) but strange dimenstions, but I think I can make it work. The way I will mount it, it's 72" long, so will overhang the 48" trailer bed, will be to hang 8 inches off the back and weld angle iron to frame it in (extend the bed) and figure the 16" will be out front where the cooler should go (give a little more tongue weight). This sound about right?

 

The width of the box is 24 inches, with the bed only 40"....so I would love to put the box over to 1 side and use the rest for storage...but I think I need to leave it centered so it pulls better, right? This only gives me 8" on each side for bed...not ideal but can make it work....Was just going to cover the open bed areas with the lightest gauge diamond aluminum I can find...to match the box.

 

Initially the box was going to be temporary, only for the trips where I'd take the 2 dogs...but now thinking I'll leave it on and use for (mostly) waterproof storage on camping runs. Should be able to fit the tent, chairs, mattress etc on each side in the 8 inch areas.

 

I've read numerous posts about how to adjust wheel bearings and trailer wiring...so hopefully good-to-go there.

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thank again guys...we'll see how it goes. If all goes right...should be ready to roll for next weekend. If I get up there Friday as planned....I'll drop off the dogs and try to pop over for the WI maint day...just to meet a few of you (and get some riding in of course :))

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Yeah....if there's any risk of that....they won't be travelling back there. My dogs are my kids....and treat them that way.

 

My plan after assembly, while test driving the trailer....is to drive around with 1 of our gas detectors from work, sitting in the dog area. I'll try to cover city, highway, town and see what the max reading that the detector records.

 

We use those RKI, Eagle 1 detectors...so pretty damn accurate. It's what we use for all of our confined space entries etc.

 

Won't be a perfectly scientific test...but should let me know of any problems. I'm more worried about stop and go traffic than I am about highway speeds, but we'll see. Only go through 1 city (Madison)...so shouldn't be too bad.

 

I know there are others on here and other sites that have pulled their pets...so pretty confident it'll be safe.

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Well...first road block. Cedar Rapids Harbor Freight has 2 in stock...but no titles for either. They weren't allowed to sell them to me unless they had them. No new shipments expected in the next week either.

 

So looks like a trip to Bettendorf for me.... Hopefully get off work in time to go tonight....tomorrow may be my only day for welding before next weekend.

 

They do have that tag-along in stock for anyone that needs one.

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If your recorder has the ability, monitor the temperature also, You really don't want hot dogs.....

 

I have seen a pet trailer that had a "snorkel" sticking up out the top front and turned into the wind with a vent low in the back. This gives forced air cooling and fresh air supply from up high si it should have less exhaust content and less engine heat. The trip to MD I did notice that the front of my trailer was very warm, even the parts not in the sun, could have been engine and exhaust heat.

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A snorkel is my backup plan if I get anything but perfect readings on the CO. Hoping one of our sheet metal guys that work on site will fit it in for me after work 1 day.

 

Started assembly today....I suck as a fabricator :) made sure the frame and hitch were completely square, welded up a bunch of it. It may not be perfect...but it will be mine...and I'm learning :)

 

How tight should the bolts be that hold the leaf spring supports (Ihe ones with cotter pins)? Tight as I can get them? Don't want to bind the pivot points for the leaf.

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Guest tx2sturgis

Inline with what others have said, but mainly to re-inforce that concept. The width of the axle, times >1.5, should equal the coupler to axle length.

 

If the axle is 40 inches wide, then the distance from the coupler to the axle should be AT LEAST 60 inches.

 

One way to compensate for varying loads that the dogs might cause, is to lengthen the drawbar even more. The longer it is, the less effect a shifting load from the pets will have on tongue weight. You COULD design a drawbar with an adjustable length coupler section. A few bolts and wingnuts, along with 2 sets of holes, should do the trick.

 

Of course the longer the drawbar, the more drag the trailer places on the bike's engine due to airflow, and also, the trailer cuts a tighter radius in slow speed turns, so you have to be aware its back there in city traffic, around curbs, and especially, maneuvering around gas pumps.

 

As far as the exhaust fumes, I dont think the pets will have much trouble, think about horses or other animals riding in trailers behind pickups. As long as you are moving, youre good. Its when you get hung up in traffic that they might have some difficulty. But as long as you are aware of them, and their condition, I think you should be fine. You might think about turn-down muffler tips if there is any doubt about the exhaust flow into the trailer. And you could even add a small 12 volt fan to circulate the air back inside the trailer, if needed.

 

 

Edited by tx2sturgis
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My welding it so poor....would like the box installed first :) Actually...was just too worn out when I got home last night to do anything but eat and relax.

 

Nothing but a standard, harbor freight, flat, trailer. All I did was assemble it, extend the tongue, and weld a couple bolts to the underside to mount a spare tire.

 

I'll take a few tonight...for my reference if nothing else

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"As far as paint...I was going to coat it all in flat (bar b Q grill) black or something close."

 

M2Cnts...that flat black might turn the thing into a BBQ! Might want to consider a color that reflects the sunlight better.

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Flat black also make it very difficult to spot a cracking weld.

When I was into stock cars the chassis was painted white or yellow to help spot cracks during weekly inspections. Especially since you said you are not a good welder.

The only welding I did on mine was the tongue extension. Once I bolted down the floor the frame can no longer be sprung out of square.

I left mine the red that it came in, the more visible the better.

 

Welding the HF trailer can actually cause more problems down the road than bolting it together.

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"As far as paint...I was going to coat it all in flat (bar b Q grill) black or something close."

 

M2Cnts...that flat black might turn the thing into a BBQ! Might want to consider a color that reflects the sunlight better.

 

 

All of the flat black will be on the underside.....The top will all be shiny aluminum, the dog box and the areas the box doesn't cover....I'll put down thin aluminum diamond plating, just to make it match.

 

By poor welding, I meant my beads aren't all that pretty. As far as the frame goes, I only spot-welded the corners after it was bolted square. The majority of the welding was for the tongue extension.

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Well...promised an update. Unfortunately 2/3 of it is bad. Kept getting CO levels of 20-60 PPM in both boxes. From my minimal testing, this was idling and at speed. I'm 95% sure I could fix this with a snorkel setup for each box (and still may...for the benefit of those that may want to try).

 

Took my dogs for a 5 min jaunt to the gas station (20-60 is barely above alarm limits) and they HATED it. One was so scared, she crapped....the other wasn't happy either and wouldn't even accept a slim jim bribe (and he LOVES his treats).

 

The only good news is the trailer pulled very well. Never got it above 45 as I was only testing for CO...but since I followed all the advice on here...I'm pretty confident. Will make a great trailer for camping and rally's, with tons of dry storage and still room on each side for tent, chairs, etc.

 

http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/wlwarp/IMG_1018.jpg

 

http://i748.photobucket.com/albums/xx130/wlwarp/IMG_1015.jpg

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Maybe you should have spent some time getting the dogs used to being in the box stationary before trying a ride.:confused24: Work up to it in stages. Do the dogs like riding in the car?

 

I was following a guy down the highway this week that had a German Shepard in the side car, the dog seemed quite happy about it. Lots of fresh air for power sniffing.

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