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Stator vs Voltage Regulator vs Bad Battery


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46 minutes ago, Geobob said:

After getting home from a cold ride this evening and not being able to run my heated jacket and hand grips while the wife was nice and toasty on her ride I broke down and ordered the HO Ricks stator off of Ricks Electronics site and a Shindengen FH020AA Mosfet R/R from Roadstercycle.  I will post a follow up once I get the parts and install them.  

Sounds like fun Bob,, will be watching this thread for your followup,, with Pics if possible?? This place never has enough pics for my liken lol ALL the best in your stator adVenture!

Puc

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Hay Cowpuc got a question.  I know I will be in the area of a suspect oil leak while doing this repair.  I keep finding a fair amount of oil on my lower left saddle bag and I am actually getting a very slow drip as evidence by the small puddle on the garage floor.  Curious where it is likely coming from.  I think the drive shaft comes out right there and the shift shaft.  Any other likely sources?  And the big question how easy is it to replace either of these seals.

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11 hours ago, Geobob said:

Hay Cowpuc got a question.  I know I will be in the area of a suspect oil leak while doing this repair.  I keep finding a fair amount of oil on my lower left saddle bag and I am actually getting a very slow drip as evidence by the small puddle on the garage floor.  Curious where it is likely coming from.  I think the drive shaft comes out right there and the shift shaft.  Any other likely sources?  And the big question how easy is it to replace either of these seals.

Likely spots for left side oil leaks,, hmmmm..  Ok @Geobob,, here is a quick draw McGraw rundown of who/what/where when I would look if it was doing such on one of my 83 MK1s:

1. Make sure the leak is not coming from uptop. Overfilling the case, filling above 1/2 way up the site window for case oil always caused excess breather oil to gather in the air box and then leaking out of the #1 carb (left rear - right above where you say your leaking)/air box boot, running down engine and onto ground - could easily gather on Health/Beauty Aids Saddle Bag (left bag). 

2. Check oil filter cover.

3. I would make sure it is not coming from the crush washer on the oil drain plug.. 

4. I would make sure my oil level switch is not leaking while laying on my back looking at the oil drain plug.

2. Make sure I put the copper crush washer back on the bottom left screw in the forward bevel cover last time I had it out. I would also double check screws for torque on that cover and stator cover all while looking carefully at the screws in the stator cover because I am pretty sure that it is possible to get to long of a screw in the wrong place when replacing that cover and that over tightening to long of a screw can actually force the screw into the cavity after fracturing the aluminum in the bottom of the screw hole and that oil can then find its way out of the case and out of that screw hole - does that make sense at all?

3. Knowing the drive shaft seal in the forward bevel is covered by that boot that connects the swing arm to the forward bevel and that boot will capture oil drippings I would probably write that off and go directly to the cavity between the forward bevel gear and the stator area.  The forward bevel gear cover covers this area and is the cover that has to be removed to swap out the clutch slave.. Do you know the area I am speaking of? I will attach a video that shows what is under it. 

4. I would take a pen light and mirror and examine that cavity and see if it is saturated with oil seepage.  If so I would pull the forward bevel gear cover and clean area real well with carb cleaner.

5. I would then start the bike while sitting on center stand and watch for oil leaks.. I would leave the forward bevel cover off so I could watch for leaks thinking the forward bevel area is no part of the oil pump pressurized system but is lubed by loose oil carried on the gears in the tranny but I would be prepared with a rag just in case LOL

6. I would not be even one tiny little bit surprised to find the stator wire harness grommet leaking where the grommet contacts the cover and where the wires run thru it cause Murphy likes to do that to me.

7. I would not be at all surprised to find oil leaking from the neutral switch on the wall of the case cause Murphy really does like to trick me.

8. I would look at the shift shaft coming out of the engine for leakage there because,, you guessed it,, Murphy..

9. double check the clutch slave gasket,, very very unlikely but possible IMHO 

There,, that should keep ya busy LOL

Here is that video I mentioned but before I go,  I bid you all the best in finding your leak:

Puc

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks so much Cowpuc.  Yes there appears to be many places for a leak.  I think I posted some photos on anther thread.  I am starting with the middle gear cover lower bolt copper washer thanks to anther posters comments.  I heated it up and quenched it hoping to soften it and get it to seal as it should.  I spray down the area and see if that was it before moving on.  The location of the mess suggest something in that area.  I was hoping there were not 1/2 dozen possibilities but we don't really have a choice.

Here is what I was really interested in asking.  While looking for a video on replacement or removal of the Stater I ran across this 

http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/index.php?action=article&cat_id=001007&id=415

It is from the old Ventures tech pages.  I understand the club and forum are not longer active but it appears we still have access to much of the data. 

Are there links on this site to those old tech pages.  The page I found was exactly what I needed before digging into my Stater replacement.  Additionally, I could not find anything in the shop manual on this.  I suspect it is there but I have not found it yet.  

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  • 4 weeks later...

I got this far with the project.  new stater installed and bolted down with new hex head bolts and blue locktight.  Looked at the new voltage regulator rectifier (mosfit) and universal mounting plate  and don't think it is going to be all that easy to get it installed where the old one sat.  Love to see where others have relocated theirs.  

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I looked at installing the new Mosfet R/R last night and even using the universal mounting plate provided I have my doubts about it mounting in the original location.  Anyone have a photo of where they relocated theirs.  The photo is the new stater installed and ready to get mounted.

New stater installed.JPEG

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The MOSFET regulator will NOT fit in the original regulators position. 

What I did was:

1) I mounted the MOSFET regulator on the inside of the right fairing upper.    It's been a couple of years, but I think I probably removed the right fairing half to do this.    After I did it, I thought about putting a piece of metal behind it to act as a heat sink, but I never did that and things are holding up fine.   The first picture (7213) shows where my regulator is mounted.   The bottom of the picture is the inner side of the fairing, and you can just barely see the fins of the regulator.  There isn't a lot of extra room, but it does fit here.

2) I extended  the 3 stator leads with #10 Gauge stranded wire so that they would reach the regulator.    I ran the new leads up the left frame, across the top of the frame, and into the fairing.   Picture 7215 shows the white wire is used going between the back of the air filter and the gas filler neck, and then into the top of the fairing.    The top of my fairing is cracked, so you see pretty good here.

3)  You have to connect the black lead from the regulator  to a good ground, and I seem to remember there are several bolts that hold the inner panel of the fairing onto the frame that are good for this.  Then I connected the Red regulator lead (using #10 gauge stranded wire) to the main 40 A. fuse.    You do NOT want the battery side, but the other side of this fuse.   Picture 7214 shows how mine is connected, but I've replace my OEM main fuse.   If yours is still original, it will be to the left of the battery.

Skydoc did his 86-93 also, but he put it underneath the trunk.    Even though mine was a 89, I decided to go with the fairing mount.    On a 83-84 you don't have that choice, and probably not on a 85 either.

 

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I like the idea of mounting it under the trunk. I will have to look and see what kind of room there is under there.  My mosfet came with the mounting bracket that looks like it might mount to the two holes the stock regulator was mounted to.  Then you mount the the mosfet to the plate.  I suppose the stock location is fine but it is tight and does get some road dirt.  It also looks like pulling the muffler off would be necessary to really get in there.  We will see. 

I would say the underside of the trunk is not some place I want to drill holes but if I remember I had to make a significant fiberglass repair in there a few years back when the bottom came apart. 

So many repairs over so many years.  How can I ever part with this bike.  We have been through a lot of life together.  I really feel for guys that are selling their's because they are finally having to give up riding.  I suspect I will be there someday.  Maybe I can just ask to be buried with it.

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I have a Schengen unit and have mounted it behind the bull nose on my 89 VR.  I attached it to a stainless steel plate to act as a heat sink and ran the red and black wires directly to the battery for best performance.  It has been working great for three years.  14.4 volts at idle and 14.8 at higher rpms.  Plus the bull nose protects the unit from road debris and has great air cooling behind the nose.

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I like this idea.  I determined that Earl was correct and while you can get the bolts to line up, the Mosfet will not fit where the stock one was located.  I almost pulled the truck off today but since the lower cowling is off maybe that is the place for it.  I guess you had to drill a couple of holes in the cowling to get it attached?

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Yes, the regulator SHOULD have metal behind it for a heat sink, but mine is burried in the bottom of the right fairing cover, and is mounted to the plastic.    With my bike running for about 5 minutes including some time at 3000 RPM, I took my heat gun and measured the regulator's temperture.....it was about 90 degrees F.     After my bike had been running for about a half hour and the cooling fan had come on and turned off several times blowing hot air back, the regulator only measured 114 degrees.     It was 60 degrees in my work shop.    

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  • 2 weeks later...

I decided tonight was the time to get some parts back on.  I tried to seat the stater and cover but it rocked back and forth.  I looked closely at the new socket head bolts I used to replace the screws and decided to take them out one at a time.  First thing I noticed was the blue locktight did virtually nothing.  The bolts turned right out.  I also decided that the cover was not seating because the rubber grommet holding the pick up wires was a little higher than the cover.  I took all the allen head bolts out and cleaned out the holes again with break cleaner, dried them out and put red lock tight on them.  Put the cover back on and then found the ring on the work bench.  I doubt it was really needed but yes I took it all apart again because I thought that red lock tight might work and make it difficult to remover the bolts later.  

I also could not remember if the shift shaft went up or down.  I looked through the shop manual and eventually found a diagram showing it up.  We will see how this works.  

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Yes, the shift lever behind the cover should be up.     If you look at the shift shaft after you get the cover back on and the C clip back on the shaft, look at the end of the shaft.    You will see a line pointing at about 11:00.    Put the shift lever back on the shaft so that the line is in the center of the gap in the shift lever.      This is how you can get the lever back on the shaft in the correct position.

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  • 3 months later...

Not sure where I left off with the posts about this winters rebuilding but here are some of the photos.  I ended up refinishing many old clear coated parts and a lot of plastic damage.  A lot of epoxy and fiberglass.  Put on some small 2 inch driving lights under the highway boards that worked great ($20 from Napa).  Did not paint anything since the damage was so minor.  Just had to replace the radiator hose from the thermostat housing to the radiator.  The Advanced Auto part number A71651 worked perfectly after cutting off an inch.  I still have a cold night drip that I cannot find but it is a small amount and I really have no idea what to change next.  I found a new thermostat housing and o rings that I must have purchased some time ago.  I think someone said that might be the problem but I have still never done the replacement since it requires some significant disassembly to get to it. 

I am very  happy with the way the new finish on the metal parts looks.  I don't think the bike has looked this good in 10 years.  Looks like I will be keeping it even though we are getting a new 2018 gold wing later this month.  That one is for the wife.  The Venture is too top heavy for her taste.  

Oh ya, the original problem of an oil leak and low voltage has been corrected with the new parts and probably a little copper washer.   

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Bike is looking good. But here in lies the problem 1) that first scratch you get no matter how tiny will drive you insane so be prepared for this highly emotional disruption in your life.Best keep a bottle of scotch  and a cozy hammock in a duffel bag bag marked( FOR EMERGANCY USE ONLY ). In My case it occurred the day I was about to take my bike out for its first post restoration ride. My son decided drop off and store his portable table saw in my garage. He set it on a cardboard box beside the bike which collapsed resulting in it falling over and scratching my right side trunk.  Secondly after all that work you will become highly attached. I have a second 89 in better shape with lower millage than the one I ride but can't make the transition. He79714583_bikeaccident001(Small).jpg.67233a40d08226bf457dba7202b618bd.jpg679076079_P101073420(Medium)1.jpg.bd7a39c9d0a82cf3bdad27f999c400c0.jpg239136518_P101073620(Medium)1.jpg.fbbf132a10d145943488b034c997901d.jpgP1010780.thumb.JPG.cb90c3d4ba877811cec2a8383857b5bc.JPGP1010781.thumb.JPG.364bb2c4fd33934a4a9b3e0bbaabab17.JPGP1010782.thumb.JPG.d838e5783290697a90c778090f999b5c.JPGP1010783.thumb.JPG.92b5694f87637c6d99a482fc27880b9e.JPGre are some before and after picks of my 89.

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the bike looks as good as it needs to in my book.  There are guys that restore to the smallest detail but that is not me.  I know I am going to ride the bike and things happen and things break.  The biggest issue is will the inevitable failure leave you stranded on the road or in the garage.  I dodged a bullet the other nigh with the radiator leak manifesting itself in the garage when we got home.  Someday something will happen on the road but so far after 30 years and 90K miles it has not.  I left a few blemishes simply because this bike as almost always had something wrong.  The repaint about 8 years ago was the best restoration step.  It cost $2000 but it makes a huge difference.  The paint looks new so if 90% of the rest of the bike looks good I am happy.  After all it is how it rides is what keeps me owning it.  If it was something collectible like my CBX I would look at it differently but I have taken this bike on many week long trips with my wife over the last few years without too much concern.  She does ride another touring bike so if we really have and issue we can jump on her bike and ride home and get a trailer.  Last summer we almost had to park her 2009 Vision.  I was so proud of my old Venture.  It is about to get relegated to second string since we are buy another newer bike.  It will be interesting to see how much it gets ridden.  Likely  it will get ridden because when ever I work on something it takes a month to finish it.  For example the 09 Vision just when up on the stand and will be there for weeks since I got so far in that I might as well do this and that ext. Not as easy to replace O2 sensors as one would expect.

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