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Ignition Switch install...


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I replaced a faulty ignition switch today, and while there is plenty of info on the forum on how to do it, I wanted to share how I dealt with the tamper proof bolts that hold the switch to the frame.

 

There is no "head" to get a tool onto these bolts, so many guys use a dremel or die grinder to cut slots into the head so they can remove the bolts with a screw driver. Another option is to just drill out the bolt and then remove the remaining bolt after the switch has been removed.

 

I decided that since I didn't need to salvage the switch or the housing (it was already broke) it wouldn't hurt to break it more. I used a small sharp chisel to break part of the switch base so I could get at the recessed bolt heads.

 

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a373/gat803/ignitionchange014.jpg

 

Then I used the chisel to tap into the side of the bolthead, making a gouge for the tool to bite into and loosening the bolt. It was just a matter of a couple of revolutions and I could turn it the rest of the way by hand.

 

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a373/gat803/ignitionchange015.jpg

 

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a373/gat803/ignitionchange018.jpg

 

I replaced the factory bolts with a couple of metric allen head bolts from my collection and I'm good to go.

 

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a373/gat803/ignitionchange021.jpg

 

Total time, start to finish to replace the switch.....1 hour, give or take.

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We did basically the same thing last year. Were you able to re-key the ignition so that you could use your existing key that locks your bags, helmet locks, etc., or are you using two different keys like I am now? That's kind of a pain, but you get used to it after awhile.

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I talked to two different lock smiths and they both said the same thing. Neither the ignition switch or the luggage/gas cap could be rekeyed.

 

I now have to deal with two keys as well. In order to tell them apart I left the triangle plastic head on the ignition key, and broke the plastic off of the luggage/gas key. No mistaking them now.

 

The lock smith made me a third spare key, so I have the one I carry, a spare hidden on the bike, and one in my work bench. It cost me a whole $4.50. ou'd think for as much as the new ignition switch cost, they'd give you 5 or 6 keys.

 

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a373/gat803/ignitionchange022.jpg

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you guys dont need to re-key or cut a key or use 2 keys or 2 sided keys!! all you have to do is remove the 2 smaller tamper proof heads on the sides of the ignition housing and swap the old cylinder to the new switch! it's easier than the big bolts that hold the housing to the frame!

use a small drill bit and an easy out on the old one first, and ya have nothing to lose.

mike

 

i still have the original key and my 3rd ignition at 160,000 miles

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I talked to two different lock smiths and they both said the same thing. Neither the ignition switch or the luggage/gas cap could be rekeyed.

 

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a373/gat803/ignitionchange022.jpg

send me your ignition and your gas cap, i can re-key them, your lock smith is nuts!

i have a yamaha lock in my trailer that i keyed to match the bike about 10 years ago.

and no.... i'm not a locksmith, just hate to carry more crap than needed.

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Hmm, very interesting.

I did think about just swapping the old clyinder to the new switch. It's held on by just two phillips head screws, but my old cylinder is so worn and sticky it's probably not long for this world either.

 

I'm definetly going to do more research on the rekey issue. Though at this point the dual key setup doesn't seem like it's going to be a real big hardship. lol

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The lock on my right saddle bag is different from all the other locks, so I just had a key cut on one side for that lock and the other side cut for everything else. I cut a notch in the plastic, so I know which side of the key is for which lock, problem solved!!! :178:

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