KIC Posted June 6, 2012 Share #1 Posted June 6, 2012 Hi guys. I have searched and read different threads about the install of new diaphragms. I bought a set for my 87 and hope to install them this weekend. I pulled one of the old ones out and have "practiced" the removal and reinstall with the old one. ' Looks like using a spray lubricant. What kind won't hurt the rubber ? How do you know if the inside seal that goes between the two "washers" is seated properly ? I was using the blunt end of two nail clippers to carefully separate the washers and then a small screw driver to push the rubber in between them. I am afraid the screwdriver might rip the rubber. Any specific info from your installation would be helpful. Thanks Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted June 6, 2012 Share #2 Posted June 6, 2012 Hi guys. I have searched and read different threads about the install of new diaphragms. I bought a set for my 87 and hope to install them this weekend. I pulled one of the old ones out and have "practiced" the removal and reinstall with the old one. ' Looks like using a spray lubricant. What kind won't hurt the rubber ? How do you know if the inside seal that goes between the two "washers" is seated properly ? I was using the blunt end of two nail clippers to carefully separate the washers and then a small screw driver to push the rubber in between them. I am afraid the screwdriver might rip the rubber. Any specific info from your installation would be helpful. Thanks Bill You should have come to MD, we were playing musical diaphragms. DO NOT use any tools on the diaphragms unless you want to buy another set. Skydoc showed us how to do it right. No lube needed DO NOT separate the washers that make up the groove. First pull the diaphragm up till the bead is resting on the groove all of the way around. Then using your thumb nail (or a soft blunt object, screw drivers have sharp corners) you press the rubber bead into the groove till it bottoms out, go around twice to be sure it is seated all the way around. You can tell by looking at it when you are there. You could ride up to the WI MD at the end of this month. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timgray Posted June 6, 2012 Share #3 Posted June 6, 2012 I used a very very thin screwdriver that I blunted the end with sandpaper to get rid of all sharp edges. Sharp edges = rips or holes. Try to make the screwdriver end round and smooth. I then used a general purpose light oil. push them in all the way, the rubber cup should be mostly round (except where the packing made them curl up and look identical to how they look not installed on a slider. any wrinkles at all is not right. The hardest part is that they will not stick in the grooves when you put the slider housing caps back on. you will need to very carefully work them until the metal cap sits perfectly flush with the housing. any gap that is thick at all is not correct. Also, dont forget to put the springs back. I have half done and looked down and sighed... removed the two to reinstall the springs and start over getting the caps back on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkuhr Posted June 6, 2012 Share #4 Posted June 6, 2012 The hardest part is that they will not stick in the grooves when you put the slider housing caps back on. you will need to very carefully work them until the metal cap sits perfectly flush with the housing. any gap that is thick at all is not correct. I found that after you get the seal in the groove, reach into carb throat and hold slide out in normal relaxed position, while installing spring and cover plate. After cover plate is pressed finger tight, slide can be released to free other hand for installing screws. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icebrrg3rd Posted June 6, 2012 Share #5 Posted June 6, 2012 I started it with my thumbnail and then used a credit card to push it in, no lubricants. I worked it around, and when I got to the end and there was a little bit of excess I just carefully stretched it away. Once the lip was all the way in, I tugged and pulled til it looked nice and even. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dacheedah Posted June 6, 2012 Share #6 Posted June 6, 2012 SkyDoc made it look easy, I wished I would have video'd that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted June 6, 2012 Author Share #7 Posted June 6, 2012 Does the little tab on the outer edge go anywhere specific ? Thanks guys..the credit card seems to be a good idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timgray Posted June 6, 2012 Share #8 Posted June 6, 2012 Yup it goes in the tab hole cut on the Carb body where the outer ring goes. Most important part is to be very VERY patient. Go slow, take your time. when you rush at all is where it will all go south. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcarl Posted June 6, 2012 Share #9 Posted June 6, 2012 Does the little tab on the outer edge go anywhere specific ? Thanks guys..the credit card seems to be a good idea. The little tab goes at about the 1 o'clock position, with the hole at the base and outside of the slider going to the bottom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saddlebum Posted June 6, 2012 Share #10 Posted June 6, 2012 These directions are for an aftermarket diaphram but may be of some help. Just don't cut off the nylon washers if you are using oem or same as oem http://jbmindustries.com/Yamaha650.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Haywood Posted June 7, 2012 Share #11 Posted June 7, 2012 I thought it was one of the easiest things I had ever done to a bike. Took me about 30 minutes. I used water as a lubricant to slide the diaphragms on and slide them around the groove to line up the tab Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skydoc_17 Posted June 7, 2012 Share #12 Posted June 7, 2012 Hey KIC, Don was nice enough to add this write up I did on the Install of the Carb. Diaphragms I did a few years ago. Hope this helps. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=32121 Earl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yammer Dan Posted June 7, 2012 Share #13 Posted June 7, 2012 Earl covers it pretty well there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin5549 Posted June 7, 2012 Share #14 Posted June 7, 2012 Soo I read some where on here about some plastic spary you could use on the diaphragms but cant find it now. I don't have 250 to spend so i so going to try it. Any help would be great. THANKS Kevin:fingers-crossed-emo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dacheedah Posted June 7, 2012 Share #15 Posted June 7, 2012 most can find a set of 4 for 80.00 i think. The spray might get you a year but then finding the diaphragm might b tougher, thickening up the walls on the diaphragms by adding material probably will change their response. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin5549 Posted June 7, 2012 Share #16 Posted June 7, 2012 I was of the opinion that it was 70.00 each not a set of 4. Can we have a ruling on this? Please? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Haywood Posted June 7, 2012 Share #17 Posted June 7, 2012 I paid $68 plus shipping for all 4 of mine. Ended up around $75 COMPLETE Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted June 7, 2012 Share #18 Posted June 7, 2012 I paid $68 plus shipping for all 4 of mine. Ended up around $75 COMPLETE :sign yeah that: Mine were $68 for a set of 4 also. I got mine in Feb of this year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted June 7, 2012 Share #19 Posted June 7, 2012 I was of the opinion that it was 70.00 each not a set of 4. Can we have a ruling on this? Please? The $70 price is for diaphragms only, no slider included. You are in the price range of $70 each with sliders. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timgray Posted June 7, 2012 Share #20 Posted June 7, 2012 These directions are for an aftermarket diaphram but may be of some help. Just don't cut off the nylon washers if you are using oem or same as oem http://jbmindustries.com/Yamaha650.html Very nice, also they are another source for the Diaphragms! At least their type. Which is a good thing to locate multiple sources for parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin5549 Posted June 7, 2012 Share #21 Posted June 7, 2012 Well then that changes things. Let me get your opinion. When the bike is cold it idles at around 900. Once warm it wants to idle at around 1200 but if you burp the throttle it will come down to 1050 or so. Also if you go to full throttle it will roll you the rpms to about 5000 then it kinda surges and lulls and surges again. I hope that makes since. The bike just won't take off. Does this sound like diaphragms to you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted June 7, 2012 Author Share #22 Posted June 7, 2012 Here's some info I copied from another thread: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yammer Dan Posted June 7, 2012 Share #23 Posted June 7, 2012 Well then that changes things. Let me get your opinion. When the bike is cold it idles at around 900. Once warm it wants to idle at around 1200 but if you burp the throttle it will come down to 1050 or so. Also if you go to full throttle it will roll you the rpms to about 5000 then it kinda surges and lulls and surges again. I hope that makes since. The bike just won't take off. Does this sound like diaphragms to you? Sea-Foam and sync. But it don't cost anything to check diaphragms. About 1/2 hr time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin5549 Posted June 7, 2012 Share #24 Posted June 7, 2012 Thanks for the answers. I have run sea foam thru and no help. I will check them this weekend. I hope they don't fall appart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted June 8, 2012 Author Share #25 Posted June 8, 2012 I hope you have better luck getting that dang security screw out then I am having. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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