trouble Posted May 20, 2012 Share #1 Posted May 20, 2012 Hello, does any one have an exploded view of how the parts go inside the rear brake proportional valve. My manual does not seem to show it. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snaggletooth Posted May 20, 2012 Share #2 Posted May 20, 2012 (edited) Hello, does any one have an exploded view of how the parts go inside the rear brake proportional valve. My manual does not seem to show it. Thanks. Don't feel alone. There is no exploded view or parts available for the proportioning valve. Yammy never intended to have that as a servicable item. However.... they are more than happy to sell a new one for about $165.00. BUT..... I do believe Dingy had some good pic showing the proper order of parts. I'm sure he will pop in later. Edit: I think this was the right thread. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=66186&highlight=proportioning+valve I went crazy when I bought my '84. The PO had stripped down every part of the brake system to try to repair it and left them all in boxes. It was a fun puzzle. The parts in that valve only work ONE way. Took a few trys and one member actually stripped his down so we could see the way it was supposed to go. Mike Edited May 20, 2012 by Snaggletooth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trouble Posted May 20, 2012 Author Share #3 Posted May 20, 2012 Thanks for the reply. I just got this bike and have not rode it yet. I think my P.O also was into this valve. I had a firm brake pedal and no oil going to the back brake. When I opened the proportional valve the order of parts did not make sense. I think they were put in wrong at some point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
friesman Posted May 20, 2012 Share #4 Posted May 20, 2012 If youre having big issues that you cant resolve, get in touch with Skydoc in here, I think he makes up a kit to do away with the proportioning valve and make your bikes brakes work more like a regular bike. Actually Skydoc is a good guy to talk to anyway as he sells a lot of parts for our bikes and provides the complete kit for any fix usually with instructions for us backyard types. Goodluck with your Venture and welcome to the group. You will find that the 12 bucks to join this group is money well spent to be able to tap the knowledge and help (and smartass remarks:rotfl:) in here Brian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snaggletooth Posted May 20, 2012 Share #5 Posted May 20, 2012 Are you getting fluid pressure at the left front caliper? If not, check the small ports in the bottom of the master cylinder. You may have something blocked up at that point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trouble Posted May 20, 2012 Author Share #6 Posted May 20, 2012 Yes the front left bleeds well lots of oil. I have bled the three bleeders and the pedal is firm but I can turn the back wheel with the brakes applied. Is this still a bleeding issue or a mechanical issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snaggletooth Posted May 20, 2012 Share #7 Posted May 20, 2012 Yes the front left bleeds well lots of oil. I have bled the three bleeders and the pedal is firm but I can turn the back wheel with the brakes applied. Is this still a bleeding issue or a mechanical issue. Have you pulled the rear caliper to see if the pistons are stuck? If you're getting fluid off the bleeder I'd suspect the pistons are frozen in place. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trouble Posted May 20, 2012 Author Share #8 Posted May 20, 2012 I took the caliper apart and checked and cleaned everything. The pistons were not seized. I put the caliper back on and used compressed air to acuate it. The 4 pistons moved in and squeezed the rotor as they should. I hooked up the brake line and started to bleed again. First front left. Then rear. Then metering. I have the bike elevated and the front wheel stops on a dime. The pedal is firm and seems almost too firm. I dont have to move the pedal far before I lock up the front brake. but the rear can still spin. Not much oil moves when I bleed the rear and the pedal does not go down as I open the bleeder. It seems like not enough oil is making it to the rear caliper before the pedal gets hard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snaggletooth Posted May 20, 2012 Share #9 Posted May 20, 2012 Ok, try this if you haven't already. Remove the brake line from the rear caliper and see if you are getting a lot more fluid out a that point. If not try it at the union where the line attaches to master. If you're getting good pressure there more than likely the brake line itself has deteriorated inside and is obstructed. If nothing else you will be isolating the area that is not functioning correctly. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snaggletooth Posted May 20, 2012 Share #10 Posted May 20, 2012 The way the proportioning valve works with the linked system is as you apply pressure to the pedal the master starts to build pressure to the rear only first. As pressure increases THEN the proportioning valve begins to allow pressure to the front left caliper. This allows the rear brake to engage first so the front does not grab too much when the pedal is pressed. Once the pressure is applied the valve is metered for the 30% rear and 70% to the front for the proper ratio. So you should always feel the rear pulling down first. Not to a full lock but engaging at least. If all else fails you can remove the spool and guts from the proportioning valve and run it wide open. It works but it's a 50/50 pressure split at that point. But that will tell you for sure if the valve is working and rather or not it is put together correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trouble Posted May 20, 2012 Author Share #11 Posted May 20, 2012 I noticed in the manual they want you to rotate the caliper up 1.2 in at the bolt. I have not been doing that. The brake pads would be mostly off the rotor. Any one actually do that. Why would they even want you do do this. My brake line is clear no obstructions. The master and the proportioning valve have been off and cleaned and a new kit installed in the master. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trouble Posted May 20, 2012 Author Share #12 Posted May 20, 2012 The way the proportioning valve works with the linked system is as you apply pressure to the pedal the master starts to build pressure to the rear only first. As pressure increases THEN the proportioning valve begins to allow pressure to the front left caliper. This allows the rear brake to engage first so the front does not grab too much when the pedal is pressed. Once the pressure is applied the valve is metered for the 30% rear and 70% to the front for the proper ratio. So you should always feel the rear pulling down first. Not to a full lock but engaging at least. If all else fails you can remove the spool and guts from the proportioning valve and run it wide open. It works but it's a 50/50 pressure split at that point. But that will tell you for sure if the valve is working and rather or not it is put together correctly. I think I will try to remove the spool. I am sick of fighting it. Thanks for all your help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snaggletooth Posted May 20, 2012 Share #13 Posted May 20, 2012 I hear ya Terry, It's frustrating. I must have had my master off 10 times trying figure out that valve when I got my bike. It was supposedly never opened but after seeing the way the inside was assembled I called BS. Let us know how it works out and somebody will probably come up with the right fix. Ride safe. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trouble Posted May 20, 2012 Author Share #14 Posted May 20, 2012 WOW. I removed the guts of the proportional valve and in 10 minutes had the system bled and ready to go. The rest of the bike is apart right now but I will give an update on how it stops when I get it on the road. I spent most of today wrestling with the brakes and even eyeballed the sledge hammer in the corner of the shop a few times. I believe most of the brake issues I have read about will be related to that darned valve. If the bike stops well enough, its staying out. Thanks again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bilko1 Posted May 20, 2012 Share #15 Posted May 20, 2012 If youre having big issues that you cant resolve, get in touch with Skydoc in here, I think he makes up a kit to do away with the proportioning valve and make your bikes brakes work more like a regular bike. Actually Skydoc is a good guy to talk to anyway as he sells a lot of parts for our bikes and provides the complete kit for any fix usually with instructions for us backyard types. Goodluck with your Venture and welcome to the group. You will find that the 12 bucks to join this group is money well spent to be able to tap the knowledge and help (and smartass remarks:rotfl:) in here Brian I happon to like having smart as& remarks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snaggletooth Posted May 21, 2012 Share #16 Posted May 21, 2012 I happon to like having smart as& remarks. He's a keeper! By the way..... what are your riding? Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
friesman Posted May 21, 2012 Share #17 Posted May 21, 2012 I happon to like having smart as& remarks. Me too!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted May 21, 2012 Share #18 Posted May 21, 2012 I happon to like having smart as& remarks. I represent that remark !!!!!! Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bilko1 Posted August 15, 2012 Share #19 Posted August 15, 2012 He's a keeper! By the way..... what are your riding? Mike 83, that has been MAXED. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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