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If you do find out that the Regulator/Rectifier has gone bad, I offer a brand new kit that has an upgraded MOSFET R/R that is "Plug-N-Play", but the kit also comes with a new plug that is installed on the wiring harness side of the connection! This cures the problem of a melted R/R plug on the R/R and the harness.

Feel free to contact me if you have questions! :thumbsup2:

Earl

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If you do find out that the Regulator/Rectifier has gone bad, I offer a brand new kit that has an upgraded MOSFET R/R that is "Plug-N-Play", but the kit also comes with a new plug that is installed on the wiring harness side of the connection! This cures the problem of a melted R/R plug on the R/R and the harness.

Feel free to contact me if you have questions! :thumbsup2:

Earl

 

Thanks for the PM Earl! To add to my PM response, all the connections appear to be good, no obvious overheating or crud. The lack of road grime/crud is surprising to me as I have 4-5 miles of gravel/dirt road between the house and pavement and most of the bike's wiring is coated with fine layer of dirt. The stator and regulator connections are clean, tight, and free of corrosion and signs of excessive heat or arcing.

 

The voltage at the battery fluctuates from approximately 13 to 14.5VDC. Occasionally the voltage is steady at about 14.2VDC. On the last ride I noticed the headlight occasionally dimming slightly, noticeable, but not bad, so I figured something wasn't right in the charging system.

 

The next day the bike wouldn't start and the battery voltage was approximately 12.0VDC. Charged the battery, but the open circuit voltage wouldn't stay above 12.4VDC, but it would start the bike. The voltage at the battery fluctuated from approximately 13 to 14.5VDC with the bike running, so I bought a new battery. The old battery was an East Penn, (Deka), and was in service for 15 months. The charging voltage still fluctuated with the new battery so I went searching for the cause hoping it was a bad connection as the fluctuating voltage suggested.

 

As previously stated, the connections all appear to be in very good condition. Given that the charging voltage sometimes stabilized and the connection are good I assumed the regulator was flaking out. The diode side of regulator checked out fine on the ohmmeter and the stator windings showed equal resistance of 0.2-0.3 ohms and no shorts to ground.

 

I decided to check the AC voltage from the stator just for grins and was astonished to find only 9.5-12.5VAC. This was at the regulator plug, so I went to the stator plug and found the same readings.

 

I'm going to confirm all my measurements tomorrow after work...:detective:

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I had my electrical woes last year.

 

I initially bought a new battery and a new R/R thinking that that was the problem, but it wasn't.

 

It was a burnt out stator in the end. I upgraded it to the higher output stator and I haven't had a problem since.

 

I would start with running the bike, unplug the stator harness and test the AC voltage across each of the leads. The resistance ohm reading on my stator seemed to check out, but it was only until I did a bike running test to see what my stator was actually putting out did I discover the problem. If the stator is putting out equal voltage across each of the leads, then you move on to the next possible issue. If the voltage is out of wack, the stator has turned crispy.:225:

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It just happens I have been chasing some of these same problems. When I was checking my AC voltage I got 27 volts between all three stator pins at the regulator connector at idle and about 70 volts at 3000 RPM. The diodes all tested ok on the R-R but I finally decided that had to be the problem. Got my new R-R yesterday and put it in tonight. Seems to have fixed the problem but I will know more for sure after I ride 30 miles to work tomorrow. Last time rode the Venture when I got there I realized the battery was almost dead and turned around and went home without turning off the bike. The radio went off and the engine started popping and cracking. Ran home in 4th gear and the voltage actually went up but was well below 12 volts when I got home. Tested at 8.5 volts in the parking lot at work but 10 when I got back home.

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Well, phase A puts out about 3.3VAC regardless of engine RPM. Phase B puts out about 9.5 to 17VAC, and phase C puts out about 10-20VAC. So this means that the stator is shot and also explains why the charging voltage was fluctuating. The resistance of all three windings is equal at 0.3 ohms, but I assume my Radio Shack meter just doesn't measure low resistances well as there should be a difference in the phase resistances with the unequal voltages. Time to spend the big bucks for repair parts.:(:bawling:

:mo money:

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  • 2 years later...

Where to start?? I have noticed that my head light will dim when the turn signals are on, this has been going on a few days, then this morning it wouldn`t start, turned over a few times then that was it.....where do I start to hunt for the problem?? ( Battery is only 6mths old )

 

Thanks,

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