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New Building!


rjjammer

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After 6 years of saving and planning the building has started.:cool10: Im putting up a 40 by 80 pole building with 40 by 40 for a heated shop and the other half for her horses. Dirt and fill is being delivered as I write this. My final addition to my little piece of America. Got to watch the first loads being dumped on facetime. When I get home in July the building will be there and Ill put the electrical and other miscellaneous items in. I cant wait. No more tripping over the toys in the garage.

 

What do you all have for a shop? Should I finish the interior in steel or wood? Any ideas and pics would sure help. :cool10:

 

rjjammer

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I sure hope it goes smoother than Yammer Dans garage did/is.......

 

I would insulate and do wood.

Wood is easier to attach things to later on that sheet metal would be.

Wood will absorb sound a little better than metal.

Wood might rot but steel will rust.

 

These are just my uneducated opinions.

I still only wish I had a garage.....:crying:

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whats your sheet rock price like down there? here its way cheaper to insulate and cover the walls with sheetrock. Holes are easily patched and it easier to paint a light colour to reflect the light all over and make it brighter in there.

 

Brian

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Sheet rock is reasonable here but I really dont like working with it. I do a lot more than bikes in my shop and rock gets pretty funky when it gets wet. I am really lousy at taping and mudding the seams. After I did my house I have decided sheet rock is a spectator sport.:confused24:

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Sheet rock is reasonable here but I really dont like working with it. I do a lot more than bikes in my shop and rock gets pretty funky when it gets wet. I am really lousy at taping and mudding the seams. After I did my house I have decided sheet rock is a spectator sport.:confused24:

 

 

I wouldnt mud or tape the seams,... its a garage...... I ran a foot high baseboard of wood around the bottom and then set the sheetrock on top to the ceiling. its way easier than wood to work with , just need a straightedge and a lino knife...

 

Brian

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Used one 8 inch block high wall and drywall from the up..

 

That way your drywall is not on the floor..

 

The 8" block around to build from is what I done and it works great. Garage very warm, no problems with moisture either. Do not skimp out on the insulation and walls, insulated 10' wide garage doors. 8' ceiling hight. I put in one steel square tubing across several ceiling joist and attached big eye bolts to hang stuff from. Mostly to hang deer for processing.

 

My 30' wide X 40' long is very warm, even with out heat it is never been at or below freezing (once was -5 degrees outside/ 38 degrees inside coldest ever). I have 4 windows in it. I insulated walls with 4" and ceiling with 6" and put moisture barer plastic on walls and then 1/2 " Sheetrock. I put the attic trusses in it to store stuff up stairs, with pull down attic stairs.

 

TV, freezer, recliner, radio, telephone and pellet stove when I need heat. Air conditioning in wall, I planned it from the beginning and built an air conditioning unit spot in the wall. Plenty of 110 plugs and one 220. Wired to box with heavy wire from my house on it's own 100 amp breaker. I fixed my florescent lights so that I could plug them in. I put recepticals on the ceiling to every 10 foot. If light has a problem, just unplug it and take out a few screws and work on it on the floor. Built a 4'x6' porch on it at the entrance. Poured it as poured the garage floor. Everyone said why a porch on the garage. Then after I did it, wow what a good idea. I keep my grill on the porch and I can sit there and watch the rain and grill to.

 

The dry wall was simple for me. I hired a friend whom is very good and he hung it in one day with screws and mud-ed the seams once. Came back next day and done seams once again without any sanding. I painted it bright white the same week. Sheetrock takes a lot less paint and is cheaper and warmer. The chip-board will suck up the paint and is not as warm as sheet rock with the mud-ed seams, air tight.

 

I did not put drains in my floor and have regretted that. So I would say spend the extra money for the drains and put them in. I slanted my parking area half way toward the doors and sweep out the melted snow and salt water with a squeegee. Works but aggravating in cold winter weather. Also regret not putting in a frost free water faucet inside the garage.

 

I have rules set with the family. No stuff allowed to be thrown in the garage and left sitting for more than three days. Put it back where you got it when done. Clean up your own mess.

 

Sorry, could not find my pictures. Maybe take a few today sometime.

 

Glad your able to get started on your new garage. Hope you the best. Keep us posted with some pictures of your new project.

 

Fuzzy

Edited by FuzzyRSTD
My spelling sucks with the worse of everyone. Can not type either, I suck at both.
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Mine is 24 by 36 and everyone who had a shop told me things to do and I didn't listen and now regret it.Such as put in a floor drain and once I decide on the size go bigger and put running water in it.Other than that I love it.I am some day going to add on a seperate room for my aircompressor parts washer and wood working tools.

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Plastic vapor barrier a must if you use drywall.

 

Double/triple reinforce a truss or install I-beam for pulling engines before you drywall.

 

10' high garage doors, might even want to got 12' H if your considering riding out on the horses.

 

As you didn't specify how high the ceiling would be you may want to install some ceiling fans for circulation.

 

Floor drains, water to shop and automated horse waterer, sewer, elec. recpt(s). every 10' plus one in ceiling for retractable trouble light. Also install air recpticles (quick disconnect in middle of sides and middle of the end of shop)before you drywall.

 

Definately need a seperate area for an air compressor ( i wheel mine out behind the front door so I don't have to listen to it) same with a vacum system for wood working tools. again you will have to plumb the walls before hand.:mo money:

Noticed your from WI... Have you given any thought on how your gonna heat the place? I have a wood burning stove in the farm garage (30x24) and a natural gas furnace out in the park garage (80x50).

Edited by CaptainJoe
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Hello: I helped a friend build a new 30' X 50' building with 10' side walls a few years ago. He insulated well and chose to line the walls and ceiling with 7/16" OSB. We chaulked all of the joints sprayed the walls with Kilz to hide the markings and then painted the walls with Oil base high gloss white paint. Ran all of the electrical in conduit on the surface of the walls and celiling. (That was NICE!!) No openings to cut or leak air. It was a lot of work, but turned out spectacular. The White walls reflect the lighting well and it is easy to heat with only 1 220v forced air heater in the corner of the building. Wood walls make it easy to attach anything you wish to them. I would recommend using the new high output T5 florescent lighting fixtures (4-6 bulbs in each fixture) rather than the older sytle two bulb fixtures. They cost more, but you will need fewer of them. Good luck and keep us posted on your project. It is my turn next. Hopefully next year!!!!!:)

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the burn time on osb is about 14 minutes provided that it is fire coated (very expensive) and the surface has tight wool insulation on the wall cavities and coated with another expensive paint. Otherwise your burn time is about 3 minutes of open flame. (joints must be blocked when panels are installed horizontally) = lots of extra 14" blocks. A sheet flame resistant 7/16 osb at Menards is $33.69 each

 

burn time on drywall is 30 minutes

 

and as a reminder, fire doubles in size every minute

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I have a 30x40 garage with 9'walls, poured a rat wall and the floor drops 1" every 10' ( our code won't allow a floor drain in a garage and I also live in a flood plain.

 

Best thing I did was to put storage trusses in so my storage is 16x40 ontop

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Sheet rock is reasonable here but I really dont like working with it. I do a lot more than bikes in my shop and rock gets pretty funky when it gets wet. I am really lousy at taping and mudding the seams. After I did my house I have decided sheet rock is a spectator sport.:confused24:

 

ship me to your place and I'll do the drywall & painting for you. and framing and insulation, I'll bring my own tools & sprayer

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A couple of posts have talked about air compressor noise. I have a 32 x 40 farm shop with a 16 foot door. The shop door is open most of the time, and the compressor noise isnt as bad because compressor is real close to the door. I have a 60 gallon upright compressor, and I know of a few neighbors that have taken their compressors and routed the exhaust outside and put on a muffler to help quiet them down. Muffler is mounted horizontally, and they add a rain cap off a tractor muffler on it to keep the birdnests out of it when not in use. Works pretty good, a lot quieter all around.

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I built a 30 x 40 building. With 12 foot eaves last year.

Have the builder add the ¼ thick bubble insulation. Just inside the sheet metal. This will help with the insulation but also helps if there are any leaks in the building this will shed the water.

I put in a 10x 10 office and lined the outside of it with white Peg board great for hanging things. Left the rest of the building with the exposed 2x6 wooden perlins.

I added a two foot wide shelf down both sides great storage up out of the way. Used joist hangers to attach to the 2X6 perlins then used 2x4 out from wall about 28 in long and then dropped down from the trusses above with the other piece of 2x4 and used 3 in sheet rock screws to join the 2 section of 2x4 and to the truss. Used 1/2 plywood for the shelf materials, You need to notch then around the columns and fasten then down with 1" screws. Place hangers directly below the trusses. These turned out very strong.

The other thing I did with some temper board and some 1x1’s is make some small shelves for my spray cans.

Add a plug at every column Don’t forget a plug for the garage door opener with outside remote control, makes it nice when driving in after a ride.

I put in a load center for the power with 220 v to it then 110 v circuits from there. Check Lowes and Home depot ETC. for a contractor load center complete with circuit breakers. Get the contractor packages of plugs and switches and save some dollars.

Hope the pictures help good luck and enjoy the building.

:thumbsup:

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  • 7 months later...

Here it is, the shell is finsihed. The ground work and electric are in as is the line for the hot water heat. Concrete will go in this spring. Now I have to figure out how to finish the interior. (40 by 40). I should have spent the extra money and insulated the ceiling on the shop side of the building.... :confused24:

 

I attached photos so I dont get the dreaded message " this post is absolutley ....."

 

I cant wait until I get to stay home and get to work on the building, and in it when it is finished. :cool10:

Edited by rjjammer
Misspelling
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Looks real good, now you two can spend time in separate rooms together.

Ya, you will insulate the ceiling, it's not that expensive and helps to keep the heat in. Just cut a hole into the ceiling and blow-away.

Also suggest to run your electrical on the surface of the walls rather than inside the walls. Makes it easier first of all for wall cladding and electric install, but it also gives you the easy option of making changes as you design and then redesign the setup in your shop. Sure wish I had run my electrics on the surface a number of times.

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