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Barn find!!


reddevilmedic

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Very Nice.. Now GET POR- for the tank.. I just did a 15 gal VW bus tank with

it I am very impressed with the stuff. I do have a how to in the tech section

using Kreem. back then if I had known I would have used the POR product.

But the Kreem is still holding up after 6 or 7 years now.

 

Take a look at my filter this is right after I got my 2K with only

3K on it, It sat in a barn for 2 years with a half tank of fuel in it.

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=524

 

Jeff

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Great little bikes. They're real spunky for a 125. The motor has a rotary intake valve, and the carbureator is in the left front cover!! This setup gives the tiny motor quite a bit of low end torque and still has a good top end (for a 125). I used to carry one of these bikes on the back of my camper for exploring. As i remember, it weighs less than 200#.

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Great find for sure. Nice price to.

 

But I'm gonna throw this at ya. I know some of these guys love the POR treatment and others like it but this is the answer for a tank with serious rust issues.

 

http://www.caswellplating.com/restoration-aids/epoxy-gas-tank-sealer.html

 

I did the tank on my '84 with this and three other tanks since that the guys were told the only answer was to split the tank to seal it or replace it.

 

The thing is with this you only need to get the worst of the rust out with the old nuts and bolt rattle and shake to break it loose. A good blast with a high pressure wash and dry it out. I rinsed mine out with Acetone before the treatment. Been a few years on the '84 now and the tank still looks and feels like a Thermos bottle inside. It fills any thins spot or degraded seams also. This is some tough stuff. I check my filter every year and I don't find any trace of rust particles or sealer in it at all.

 

This epoxy actually bonds better to a rusted surface than a clean one.

 

Take a read on it. It's worth the time.

 

Mike

Edited by Snaggletooth
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I am getting ready to do the tank on my 1960 GMC Burb and was told that a 50/50 mixture of pool acid and water will clean it out nicely. Bought the acid, haven't had time to try it.

 

Muriatic Acid, as sold for swimming pools is 30% Hydrochloric Acid. Dilute it 50% and you have 15% HA.

 

That is nasty stuff. Always add the acid to the water, never the other way round.

 

Take extreme precautions because that stuff just loves flesh, and eyeballs!!

 

I can see no reason why it would not work, the proprietory rust=eaters are based on phosphoric acid, probably because it is less corrosive.

 

Go easy with the stuff, and don't leave it in the tank too long.

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I used POR15 on my 83 and it is great.

I would suggest light taps on lowest points with scribe or pointed object to see if pokes thru-indicating very little metal left.

If so grind of paint lightly, and braze swiss cheese closed&solid first. Then POR.

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my dad has a 79 in the barn with 1 mile on it,he's wanting $650 for it

 

Curious what the price of these new were.

 

Miller Not sure how that can be, who could bring something like that home and never ride it. Would have more than 100 times that the first time it got started :rotf: Wow that probably would be a good deal if you wanted something to boot around the corn fields.

 

And Red good deal.

 

 

Brad

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About 20 years ago I bought a yamaha 3 part kit,for a 750 yamaha I had then. removed the petcock and lines and sealed them off, poured part 1 in and about 24 hours later emptied it and rinsed with boiling water and then dried. The other two parts were some epoxy that you mixed and poured in the tank and rolled the tank back and forth coating the inside pouring out the excess and then letting it dry. I had that bike for about five more years with no problems and I am pretty sure it was a yamaha kit.

 

Not sure if you had it off if CLR might work but you need to recoat the tank if it has rust / bare spot.

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