KIC Posted March 15, 2012 Share #1 Posted March 15, 2012 It’s dead. Down and out for the count. I screwed it big time. I had used the washer under the valve cover shoulder bolts technique to stop a couple of small leaks. Worked fine except one little leak that was working it’s way down to the exhaust. Was looking forward to riding it through the weekend and decided while chatting on the phone with a friend, to “snug” that one valve cover bolt in an attempt to stop the small oil weep. Went good until I gave it the little “one more for good luck” tweak. Yea..more like major bad luck. It snapped off under the shoulder stop part. I don’t see how I can fit even an angle drill in there to drill for an easy out. Gotta pull the engine to fix it. I think that is way beyond my skill and time availability. Was going to start working on the 87 this weekend with/for my son. Seriously thinking of selling both as is and moving on… The 2nd Gens win this battle.... This sucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frankd Posted March 15, 2012 Share #2 Posted March 15, 2012 Look at the broken piece and see if there's a chance that there is enough left in the motor to grab with a channel lock (or vice grip). If there is a chance, you may be able to pull the valve cover and then unscrew the broken bolt. Then just buy a new bolt and put it all back together. A lot of us have been down the same path....let's just tighten it a little more.......snap. A torque wrench is a bit of a PITA, but there is a reason for them. Frank D. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakester Posted March 15, 2012 Share #3 Posted March 15, 2012 I have had a bit of luck using a small punch or chisel and tap an edge counterclockwise to back out the broken fastner just enough to get a plyer in it. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted March 15, 2012 Share #4 Posted March 15, 2012 +1 on take off the valve cover and use a sharp punch, prick, awl or something similar to work the broken screw out till you can get it with a pliers. Depending on just how deep it is you could also use a Dremel with a cut off wheel to make a slot in the end of the broken screw to use a flat blade screwdriver to get it out. The slot in the end of the boss will not hurt anything since it is hidden under the valve cover. Just use a lot of rags and magnets to keep the grinding dust under control. There is also a reason that a number of us recommended AGAINST what you did and tried to talk you into doing it right with new seals. Get a NEW set of seals to put it back together. Hopefully you did not warp the valve cover with the extra pressure from the added washers. Taking the cheap way out is often more expensive than doing it right the first time. Or does this mean you are now shopping for a 2nd gen to put on the porch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted March 15, 2012 Author Share #5 Posted March 15, 2012 I can see it from the valve cover hole and it looks like it is below the top of the area it screws into. From the looks of the bolt ( below) it is broken below the the stop portion of the bolt. How hard is it to get those valve covers completely off ? Besides the 8 bolts, what else is bolted/connected to them ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yammer Dan Posted March 15, 2012 Share #6 Posted March 15, 2012 I feel bad on that one. I've used it with a lot of success. There should be a way to get it out of there. Small punch is best way to start. Wish I was there to help on that one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted March 15, 2012 Author Share #7 Posted March 15, 2012 I feel bad on that one. I've used it with a lot of success. There should be a way to get it out of there. Small punch is best way to start. Wish I was there to help on that one. It was working Dan. I just over wrenched it while talking on the phone. Should have been concentrating on what I was doing, or better yet. Been riding instead of screwing around. I guess Saturday I will try to take off the whole valve cover and see what I can do. From what i can see it isn't promising. maybe a real small angle drill might get in there to drill for a small easy out. It will be a wait-n-see issue. Any hints on what to expect on getting the cover off ? Sad part is my wife was going to be gone all day Saturday, I was going to ride and work on the 87. Tuesday I go on travel for a month. It's gonna be around 80 on Sat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted March 15, 2012 Share #8 Posted March 15, 2012 I can see it from the valve cover hole and it looks like it is below the top of the area it screws into. From the looks of the bolt ( below) it is broken below the the stop portion of the bolt. How hard is it to get those valve covers completely off ? Besides the 8 bolts, what else is bolted/connected to them ? Nothing else is connected to them but it does take some wiggling to get them out and back in. I think there are some plastic heat shields that have to come out but they are snap in place. If you didn't before this would also be a good time for NEW valve cover gaskets. IIRC it took me about two hours to do both valve cover gaskets and all 16 new bolt seals. That was the very first wrenching I did on my '88, it was leaking bad when I bought it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted March 15, 2012 Share #9 Posted March 15, 2012 On second thought,,,,,,,,,, Put a cork in the hole and go for a ride......... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiCarl Posted March 15, 2012 Share #10 Posted March 15, 2012 Don't the cover bolts screw into the cam bearing caps? If so, you can remove the cap and get it out where you can work on it. The caps are part of the head, don't mess it up. MUST use torque wrench to reinstall the cam caps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keemez Posted March 15, 2012 Share #11 Posted March 15, 2012 Gotta pull the engine to fix it. I think that is way beyond my skill and time availability. Seriously thinking of selling both as is and moving on… The 2nd Gens win this battle.... This sucks. Now now, let's not get crazy here. An engine pull IS a bit of a chore, but if you can successfully do your forks, you can successfully do an engine pull. IF it's even necessary in the first place. It may not be- with any luck you can follow the other suggestions here and possibly salvage just by popping the valve cover off. I pulled my engine out last spring just to do valve clearance check and some serious degreasing/cleanup (ok, ok... I fell victim to the "while I'm in THIS far I may as well XYZ too" plight). Was it overkill? Big time. Was it worth it? Big time. You'll never be more intimately familiar with a motorbike than you are when you finish R&Ring the engine. Don't even think about selling either one of those. You've done 75% of the work already. A little more and you're home free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilvrT Posted March 15, 2012 Share #12 Posted March 15, 2012 Keemez ... you shouldn't be so encouraging. I think he was actually contemplating moving UP to a 2nd gen ..... Seriously tho KIC ... it ain't an engine pull job ... just yank the covers, no biggie ... couple hours or so and you'll be lookin for 2nd gens to race... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
09RSTD Posted March 15, 2012 Share #13 Posted March 15, 2012 (edited) As much as I dislike Nike I say "Just Do It". Get in there and fix it even if that requires you having to remove the engine. Don't doubt your abilities. It may been a royal pain ( no pun intended ) to pull the engine but just imagine how it is going to feel when you are finished and you have accomplished such an awesome task. Patience be with you Brother! Edited March 15, 2012 by 09RSTD spellin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted March 15, 2012 Share #14 Posted March 15, 2012 I didn't even think about the valve cover bolts screwing into the cam caps. I have a set of heads from an 85 at home, I will check it out tonight when I get home. My bike just came out of hiding yesterday and it is really nice out so I may end up taking the long way home. There is about 100 miles worth of gas left in her. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djh3 Posted March 15, 2012 Share #15 Posted March 15, 2012 +1 on the small punch-chisle-awl idea. I have gotten many a busted screw out wiith this metheod. You might try one of those spring loaded center punches if you cant get a good swing with the hammer. Cover areas with the rags as was sugested. You will probably have to make a couple strikes almost straight up to get a good dimple, then go from the side and walk it out. Maybe a shot of PB blaster to make sure it aint galled. You should be OK. Of course there is the cork and duct tape suggestion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted March 15, 2012 Share #16 Posted March 15, 2012 They do screw into cam caps. You MUST fix this cap though. The cam caps are installed in the heads at the factory, then line bored. You will be asking for a spun cam bearing if you try and replace it with another cap from a different head. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freebird Posted March 15, 2012 Share #17 Posted March 15, 2012 Great opportunity to check the valve adjustment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrenchrob Posted March 15, 2012 Share #18 Posted March 15, 2012 Might as well do the carb cleaning while your in there and..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keemez Posted March 15, 2012 Share #19 Posted March 15, 2012 Great opportunity to check the valve adjustment. Always the optimist... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted March 15, 2012 Author Share #20 Posted March 15, 2012 Thanks for all the encouragement guys. It was the "while I'm at it, just fix this and that ", that got me overwhelmed on the fork seal job. I guess I'll see what I can do on Saturday. I was just so jazzed on riding this one and working on the 87 that this really has got me down. My month of travel starting next week leaves me with if It ain't fast and easy...it will have to wait until late April. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted March 15, 2012 Share #21 Posted March 15, 2012 Here is what the top of a head and cams look like. It should be no problem to remove the cam cap to get the broken screw out. If you are going to try to drill it for an easy out, make sure you use a left hand drill, I'd bet the drill will spin it out before you even get much of a hole. Start in the morning and you should be on the road by noon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted March 15, 2012 Author Share #22 Posted March 15, 2012 Here is what the top of a head and cams look like. It should be no problem to remove the cam cap to get the broken screw out. If you are going to try to drill it for an easy out, make sure you use a left hand drill, I'd bet the drill will spin it out before you even get much of a hole. Start in the morning and you should be on the road by noon. Thanks Jeff, I will give it the ol college try...knowing I can remove the piece with the broken bolt helps alot. Thanks for the pictures. Might start on it tomorrow... I'll let you know. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyinfool Posted March 15, 2012 Share #23 Posted March 15, 2012 They do screw into cam caps. You MUST fix this cap though. The cam caps are installed in the heads at the factory, then line bored. You will be asking for a spun cam bearing if you try and replace it with another cap from a different head. Gary Don't forget what Gary said here. You MUST use the same cap in the same place because they are bolted up and machined in place. My caps or anyone else's will NOT work on your head. That broken peice should not be any more than finger tight in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIC Posted March 16, 2012 Author Share #24 Posted March 16, 2012 Any idea off hand what the ft lb on the torque is on the reinstall of the cam caps should be ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted March 16, 2012 Share #25 Posted March 16, 2012 7.2 ft/lbs Do you have a service manual yet. All the torque specs are in the appendices. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now