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I remember having a discusssion on the kawai boards about this. I asked about water wetter and then this one was brought up. I'll try go go look it up. I think it down to if you are running anit freeze for coolant properties the ice/water wetter stuff wont help much. Also it has no low temp (no freeze) proporties. The extra cooling was neglagible but I think the anti corrision was better. I'll try to look it up. http://www.gadgetjq.com/coolant_replacement.htm I think this is the thread about page 2 before any mention of thes products I think. http://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/kawasaki-cruisers/119915-coolant-antifreeze-thoughts-3.html

Edited by djh3
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Can't seem to find a thread on this. Does anyone use engine ice as their coolant in the RSV?

 

I toss in a couple of caps full of water wetter... Purple Something??.... when I flush the coolant just because. It did help reduce the running temp on the '83 a bit... Haven't done the '99 yet, but will when the time comes. Bought the bottle in Ft Collins Co in '07, and it looks like it'll be a lifetime supply.

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Can't seem to find a thread on this. Does anyone use engine ice as their coolant in the RSV?

 

 

I have used engine ice, seems to work as well as water wetter and anti-freeze. It's good to down to 30 below but at $40 or more a gallon it's not for me. The $10 a bottle water wetter does the same thing except you and your animals can not drink it safely. :stirthepot:

It drops engine temps. somewhere around 10-15 degrees from my experience. :2cents:

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Man I know I missed something on this subject. I was going to run it in my Kawai and I am pretty sure there was a reason I didnt. Maybe corrision prevention. I dont know as straight up the products mentioned have any corrision protection. Hmmmm :confused:

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I've never quite understood this desire to make the engine run cooler. Now what I'm going to say can be taken as a question as much as a statement of fact because I'm just sort of thinking out loud and need to do some more research on this subject.

 

My thought though are that these engines are designed to run within a certain temperature range. They have thermostats that are designed to get them up to a certain operating temperature before opening and regulating the temperature. If the manufacturers wanted them to run cooler, there are a number of ways that it could be accomplished.

 

I read an article somewhere long ago that discussed this and I wish I still had it. Basically what it said was that modern combustion engines are designed to run at fairly high temperatures and run most efficient at those temperatures. The running temperatures can affect fuel efficiency, emissions, etc.

 

If all this is true, WHY do we want to add something to make them run cooler and possibly less efficient?

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I guess some of us are still thinking "old school". We want better oil because it is more slippery, thus makes parts wear less and create less heat and stress. Same goes for cooling. Thought being if its running cooler (within a reason) there aint as much stress and strain on part pieces. I do agree with you though that Yamaha has spent lots of $$ finding the range the motor needs to run at for emmisions. The emmisions being the key driving point the last oh say 10-15 yr on the temp thing. Manufactures found if they run the motors hotter they burn more of the emissions. I had an 96 Dakota PU that under part throttle pinged like crazy. I took it to the dealer twice for it. They told me it was "normal". BS I did some research and found out it was a common problem but certainly not normal. The fix I was lead to was a lower opening temp thermostat. Fixed the problem for about $6. Might have tweaked the emisions a tad but mpg stayed the same.

With the thermostats in out bike being at say 200 (I dont know for sure just picking a number) its going to open @ 200. If you run the recomended cooling liquids it takes say 10 min for it to reach opening point. With the Ice/water wetter it increases the boiling point and may extend it say to 13 min before it reaches that temp. Its still going to open @ 200 whenever it gets there. Where it might be an advantage is on the cooldown side. Especially in like AZ or Fl or Tx where its hot in summer and you get caught in traffic. May not have to run the fan as long to cool back down.

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I've never quite understood this desire to make the engine run cooler. Now what I'm going to say can be taken as a question as much as a statement of fact because I'm just sort of thinking out loud and need to do some more research on this subject.

 

My thought though are that these engines are designed to run within a certain temperature range. They have thermostats that are designed to get them up to a certain operating temperature before opening and regulating the temperature. If the manufacturers wanted them to run cooler, there are a number of ways that it could be accomplished.

 

I read an article somewhere long ago that discussed this and I wish I still had it. Basically what it said was that modern combustion engines are designed to run at fairly high temperatures and run most efficient at those temperatures. The running temperatures can affect fuel efficiency, emissions, etc.

 

If all this is true, WHY do we want to add something to make them run cooler and possibly less efficient?

 

 

Agreed on the operating temperatures this stuff does not affect that to a point. The thermostat still controls that, it does help with hot spots that could be in the head and cylinder areas. My experience is the temperature stays more consistent usually around 215ish fully warmed up and riding. It would spike before when stopping for a light etc. to 240ish with fan on, with the additive it will stay at 215 for a good while and slowly creep up until the fan cycles and it has to be a long light.

 

I run this stuff in everything I own that has a radiator including the lawn mower with great results for many years.

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