Prairiehammer Posted January 25, 2012 Share #1 Posted January 25, 2012 (edited) I experienced electrical gremlins last fall on my 1990 Royale. Strange behaviors. Too intermittent to diagnose specifically, but there seemed to be some relationship to the ignition switch and/or the "IGNITION" fused circuit. I know that ignition switch problems are not very frequent on First Generation Ventures, unlike the Second Gens, never the less I felt I may be having an issue with mine. So to cure possible problems with IGNITION fuse and the ignition switch, I replaced the OEM fuse block with a new fuse block that accepts ATC fuses and I added an "ACCESSORIES" auxiliary block. This auxiliary accessories fuse block is only energized when ignition switch is at ACC or ON. To prevent excessive current draw through the ignition switch, I fed the auxiliary accessories block via a 30Amp relay and 10GAuge wire. When the OEM ACC circuit is energized by the ignition switch, the relay is energized, closing the circuit from the battery to the positive lug post on the auxiliary accessories fuse block. To avoid grounding issues for added accessories, I created a common grounding terminal strip. This terminal strip is connected to the negative post of the battery with a short length of 10GA wire. The terminals on the terminal strip are electrically connected to each other with a heavy brass buss. The fuse blocks and terminal strip are mounted to the unvented maintenance free battery with double face foam "Gorilla" tape. The battery top presented a smooth surface for mounting via tape. This method probably wouldn't work for conventional batteries. I relocated the MAIN fuse to just in front of the Positive battery post. I relocated the CLASS fuse holder to under the other OEM fuse block that contains the AUDIO, BACKUP,etc. fuses for now, but I intend to utilize the remaining fuse position on the new "main fuse block" for the CLASS. Thank you, Earl for the fuse block. Edited March 13, 2016 by Freebird Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skydoc_17 Posted January 25, 2012 Share #2 Posted January 25, 2012 Hey Kevin, WOW! That is one of the nicest looking fuse box upgrades I have ever seen. Being "Electrically Retarded" myself, I was grateful just to get rid of the Glass FUSES in the "Antique" stock fuse box, but THIS is an entirely new level of engineering! Have you noticed any difference in the performance of your VR since the new fuse box install? Keep us posted on the results! Obviously, some MAJOR "Thinking Outside The Box" going on here! You did an excellent job, Kevin. If anyone is looking for a much more "Humble" fuse box upgrade, I offer one for the First Gens. in the Classifieds: http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3762&title=first-genfuse-box-upgrade-kit-21&cat=22 Earl Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utadventure Posted January 25, 2012 Share #3 Posted January 25, 2012 Kevin- Looks like you did a great job. I lost my headlight the last day at the international rally last summer. After some quick checking, I couldn't find the problem, so, I rode home (daylight hours) without and fixed it at home. I had the parts and decided to do the upgrade to ATC fuses and when I went to remove the glass fuse for the headlight, one side of the fuse holder fell off.....found the problem. It has a been a great upgrade. Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snaggletooth Posted January 25, 2012 Share #4 Posted January 25, 2012 When I did my upgrade on the '84 I was proud of three things. 1. It didn't look too bad. 2. I didn't start a fire. 3. It worked. But dang Kevin, you got the touch. Well thought out and very nicely done. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XV1100SE Posted January 25, 2012 Share #5 Posted January 25, 2012 Snaggletooth... think your point #2 is the most important part ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snaggletooth Posted January 25, 2012 Share #6 Posted January 25, 2012 Snaggletooth... think your point #2 is the most important part ! My friends call me Sparky and it's not in an affectionate way. I've heard my buddies ask each other "Is he welding or wiring over there?" The first thing I make sure I have handy on any project is the fire putterouter thingy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Squidley Posted January 26, 2012 Share #7 Posted January 26, 2012 Very nice install Kevin, I have done a fuse block upgrade on all of the 1st gen Ventures I have owned and several members bikes. Thats a nice and clean looking install...good on ya Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Venturous Randy Posted January 26, 2012 Share #8 Posted January 26, 2012 You have done a very nice job on an upgrade that EVERY 1st gen Venture needs. It is not an expensive, nor difficult job to do and it will help with the safety, dependability and performance of the bike. RandyA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prairiehammer Posted January 26, 2012 Author Share #9 Posted January 26, 2012 Thank you for the nice comments, guys. BTW, I have an original 1990 Yamaha Venture Royale fuse block with cover. Very Good condition. All clips strong and shiny. Mostly correct glass tube fuses included. Wires clipped short right at the clip crimps. Free to a good home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted January 26, 2012 Share #10 Posted January 26, 2012 Thank you for the nice comments, guys. BTW, I have an original 1990 Yamaha Venture Royale fuse block with cover. Very Good condition. All clips strong and shiny. Mostly correct glass tube fuses included. Wires clipped short right at the clip crimps. Free to a good home. WHAT?? No takers yet... I thought someone would be jumping all over this... All kidding aside Kevin... Great Job.. Maybe you could give us an idea of the parts and cost you have in the mod...?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saltcreep Posted January 26, 2012 Share #11 Posted January 26, 2012 That looks really really good and clean, lots of attention to detail. Are the fuse holders held in place any way on the battery? -- Nevermind , I see you used double sided tape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prairiehammer Posted January 26, 2012 Author Share #12 Posted January 26, 2012 Maybe you could give us an idea of the parts and cost you have in the mod...?? Sure, Jack I started by obtaining Earl's Skydoc-17 fuse block upgrade. He sells that as a kit for $60 shipped. (Though in this application, I did not use several of the components he provides in his kit.) Then I went to NAPA and picked up the auxiliary fuse block for $17. I spent another ten bucks or so for ATC fuses. I already had the relay, wires, heat shrink tubing, connectors and terminal strip, but perhaps another 15 bucks for those sundries. A couple hours of labor (a fair amount of head scratching and tentative component placement, soldering, fabricating wires, etc.) If one is doing Skydoc's kit alone, labor time would be about 15 minutes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a1bummer Posted January 27, 2012 Share #13 Posted January 27, 2012 HEY! I like what you've done with the place. Bill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasonm. Posted January 28, 2012 Share #14 Posted January 28, 2012 (edited) Nice P-H...looks like you used same parts I did on my upgrade. I actually was able to put a 5 blade unit directly where the glass type was with the same orientation. That 6 group accessory block I glued to the air box lid. But after working on he carbs...in / out again and again. I figured out I could put that six pack animal in the left side hidden in front of the radio"deep down" with relays. Yes the relays are in tight. So actually I guess you call it stealth even when the covers are removed. I will see if I can post a pic of it. Yes, I am an "electrical guy" Edited January 28, 2012 by jasonm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ronnie86 Posted January 28, 2012 Share #15 Posted January 28, 2012 I`d like to have that original fuse block, let me know..........Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prairiehammer Posted January 28, 2012 Author Share #16 Posted January 28, 2012 (edited) You serious, Ron? Or just pullin' my ...uh, leg? Shoot me a PM with your address. Edited January 28, 2012 by Prairiehammer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryZ Posted February 2, 2012 Share #17 Posted February 2, 2012 Here is a picture of Earl's fuse block installed on my Beast. I adapted the install slightly because I did not want to mount stuff to the airbox lid. The piece of paper inside the fuse cover lists the circuits by fuse number. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yammer Dan Posted February 2, 2012 Share #18 Posted February 2, 2012 Could we watch the talk about fires?? I need to go up to Skid's garage and do the fuse block upgrade on "UGLY" Talk of fires seems to make him nervous...:whistling: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Mercury Posted February 3, 2012 Share #19 Posted February 3, 2012 Here`s my fuse box , but new TCI from Dingy, will replace original, to create compact set-up. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnT Posted July 12, 2013 Share #20 Posted July 12, 2013 I have to do mine. Had 2 clips break off and wired inline fuse holders that I had in the parts box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie h. Posted July 13, 2013 Share #21 Posted July 13, 2013 Ebay has great inline blade fuse holders available for $10 $12 or so... http://www.ebay.com/itm/350807935814?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 This should be the link to one example! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeorgeS Posted July 13, 2013 Share #22 Posted July 13, 2013 Over 18 years of working on electrical problems on my 89, ( now sold to guy down the street ) a few things I found concerning " Ground Connections " In addition to the better fuse blocks discussed in this thread, and well known improvements to the heavy battery cables, I found a few other items that are easy to do and improve the entire electrical system. Grounds---- I found that " all " ground connections for all the lights on rear of the bike are spliced together inside wire harness's , and end up at just ONE, # 20, Black wire, which runs thru the large plug located under the passenger section of the seat, on left side. ( the large plug with about 15 wires running thru it ) If this connection goes bad, it effects all the Rear faceing light fixtures !! So: I spliced into the black wire, AFT, of the plug and ran that to a NEW ground stud, on the rear of the bike. ( most any bolt, will do ) Also, Up behind the head light, in the Instrument panel. Many black wires are spliced together, inside the wireing harness, and end up going to " ONE " # 18 wire, running to the Main Ground stud located under ( and hidden ) the Left side upper fairing compartment. SO, in the main cable below the instrument panel, good idea to splice into black wires in a couple places, and run to a " New ' Ground Stud , somplace near the Instrument panel. Also, On the " OutPut " Plug, from the Rectifier/Regulator Unit, TWO , large black wires Run into a cable, and then are combined inside the main wireing harness, and run up to the " Single " Main Ground stud ( as above ) under the Upper, Left Fairing. So about 6 inches from the R/R Output Plug, ( on the battery side ) I spliced in a NEW #10, Black, Stranded Wire, and Ran it about 8 Inches to a convienient Bolt on the Frame. ( Why?? Just to make sure I have a Darn Good ground, for the Output of the charging System ) !! Also: If you have not done so, on any 1st Gen Bike, make sure you have an Extra ground lead from ----- battery Negative Stud , ----- to the Frame just to the right side of your battery. Easy to Fabricate one, useing #10 Stranded wire and a couple Studs. I know, this is overkill, but its a good thing to do !! More Overkill !! Just in case there is " High Resistance " between the Engine Case, and the Frame of your bike. ( Why?? because the Heavy Black Battery cable runs to the Engine Case ) It might be a good idea, to Fabricate, and install an EXTRA, #10 Ground Strap from Somplace on the Engine case, to the Frame of the Bike . Why" all of the above ---- Well, because, High Resistance, Ground connections in 12V DC System's cause lots of " Wierd " problems, and are usually very hard to Diagonose, and track down !! Just a few items to think about, next time you are working on your electrical system Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest bodasefus Posted August 31, 2013 Share #23 Posted August 31, 2013 very impressive upgrade... I ordered one... Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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