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Kitchener area - Steering head adjustment


XV1100SE

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Need to adjust my steering head over the winter and although I read the tech article I'm still not clear on it.

I have the tool and bike is on the lift...

Anyone free to assist? No rush.... can't ride with the snow/salt. Just like to see how it is done once.

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hey Don..

 

when you DO find someone with the knowledge to do it, could you please let me know?

i would like to learn to do it too, cause i think mine needs attention too, and i am willing to help anyway i can....like wiping the tools after the job is done or go pick up pizza etc..:beer:

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I can help,,, tough thing is,,, it's a second gen,, so it will take longer because they are slower,,,, that means more time, and more time means more money,,,,,, so maybe you'd better figure on double the price. But seeing as you already have the tool, you would save 10% and being as it's already on the lift, that could knock off another 20%, but you want it done as the snow flies, so add on 25%, but seeing as I'm not all that busy we'll let that go for now,, and seeing as your reported to be kind of a nice guy, that can save you even more. In the final analysis, if you pay the required HST then maybe all will be just fine.

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Don, you need the special tool that Dingy makes for tightening the nut. He designed it for the 1st gen but it should work the same as the 2nd gen. You pretty much tighten it up until it just snugs then back it out just a hair then lock it into place. too loose and you may get wobble in the handlebars, too tight and you have stiff steering and worse you put strain on the bearings...

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  • 4 months later...

Okay...now I've done it.

 

Finally got around to it. Reason I left it this long was that I was confused about where Dingy's tool came into use.

 

For anyone else wondering.... the tool is used when you do the full adjustment by pulling off the handlebars, etc. You do not use the tool when you are just tightening the head the "easy" way.

 

Simple procedure. Bike on lift ...Loosen the bolt on the top of the head (27mm) going at it from one side of the bike then the other. Don't need to remove it, just loosen it. Then, from the right side with a medium flat blade screwdriver, put the tip against one of the tabs on the lower nut and hit the screwdriver (gently) with a hammer driving the nut in a clockwise direction. Check steering to see if it "bounces" when nudged to one side or if when held in a certain position let the handle bars go and they should stay in that spot.

 

Went for a ride today and let the bike coast with hands off (but near the grips) and the bike held a straight line without wobbling. Issue resolved.

 

Any one want a "show and tell", let me know.

 

Next... try my new carbtune on my own ! And oil change before heading to MD at Freebirds.

 

Don

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Oil changing is straight forward...but i would love to watch the carbs set, using the Carbtune, cause i got myself one too, from the UK.:banana:

 

The wobble i was experiencing, is completely gone now, after i put on a new Dunlop404 tire in the front. What a difference in handling, and NO more wobble.:scared:...I had Dunlop on, originally, but may be it wasn't wearing out too well.:confused24:

 

:beer:

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Oil changing is straight forward...but i would love to watch the carbs set, using the Carbtune, cause i got myself one too, from the UK.:banana:

 

The wobble i was experiencing, is completely gone now, after i put on a new Dunlop404 tire in the front. What a difference in handling, and NO more wobble.:scared:...I had Dunlop on, originally, but may be it wasn't wearing out too well.:confused24:

 

:beer:

So when are you coming down?

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Any recommendations on a reasonably priced multi-meter that does rpm or a clip on tach for the carb tune work? (in Canada)[/Q

 

 

I believe this one should work, but its not cheap. There might be some cheaper ones out there...

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/AutoTools/TimingLights/PRDOVR~0252029P/Digital+Timing+Light.jsp?locale=en

 

I do have an RPM meter on by bike, but it fluctuates like crazy at low rpms' :bang head:

 

 

abdul.:beer:

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...I believe this one should work, but its not cheap. There might be some cheaper ones out there......

 

Harbor Freight has a digital multi-meter for $30 but can't find anything in Canada that is similar.... or anywhere near that cheap.

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Hi Jim...

We would really appreciate it, if you could buy one for us.

The item is shown below.

I will send the cash with either Don ( i think he is coming to Oberlin), Bongobob, or Carl, when i meet them at the "marcarl meet" in Brantford on the 26 th of this month. Why dont you come over if you have the time?

Don can have it, if he wishes, or else i will keep it.

Thanks for the offer, and take care.:thumbsup2:

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/diagnostics/digital-contact-tachometer-66400.html

 

 

Abdul.:beer::canada:

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Don:

 

I have a Harbor Freight about 3 miles from me here in Rochester. If you give me details of what you want, I can buy it here and give it to you at Don's MD in Ohio, if you are going to be there.

 

Jim

 

Thanks for the offer. I was thinking of riding down to the ones near Buffalo but after reading the customer reviews I'm thinking you get what you pay for. The customers don't rate it very well.

 

I'm going to keep on the look out for something better (accurate). Even though it is only for the occassional carb tune I'd rather have something "right".

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This is the one I was considering that comes with an inductive pick-up.

http://www.harborfreight.com/lcd-automotive-multimeter-with-tachometer-kit-95670.html

 

This seems to be the gist of the customer reviews :

"This was a real disappointment. Don't buy it for the tach function or the temp probe...... The tach reading jumps all over the place and it only works down to a 3cyl. I bought this for the tach function and was really let down."

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Hi Jim...

We would really appreciate it, if you could buy one for us.

The item is shown below.

I will send the cash with either Don ( i think he is coming to Oberlin), Bongobob, or Carl, when i meet them at the "marcarl meet" in Brantford on the 26 th of this month. Why dont you come over if you have the time?

Don can have it, if he wishes, or else i will keep it.

Thanks for the offer, and take care.:thumbsup2:

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/diagnostics/digital-contact-tachometer-66400.html

 

 

Abdul.:beer::canada:

 

Hey Jim....

i think i screwed up..:o...please ignore my above post. Now if you have already bought the item....i will take it, but if you havent bought it yet, then DON'T. Again...was very nice of you to offer to help out. We appreciate it.

 

Abdul. :thumbsup2:

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I haven't bought it yet because I noticed it was a contact type unit and couldn't figure out how you were going to use it to sync the carbs. I just got on the Forum to check and saw the conversation, so I won't buy it. I am on my way to HF get a few hand tools, but will not purchase it. If there is anything else you need from HF just PM me and I can bring it to MD Day on June 1 & 2.

 

Jim

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Picked up a multi-meter today at Canadian Tire $150. One of those "does everything" units. Labelled as an Innova 3340a. Web site http://www.iequus.com. No excuse to synch the carbs now.

 

I'm due for the 25,000km tune up (16,000mile). Thinking all I need to do is oil change, maybe air filters (or at the very least blow them out), carb tune, adjust idle. Got new tires last year.

 

Brakes are original and have a full set of EBC for front back. At the NY rally last year Pioneer said I still had 1/2 of the pad remaining. Could do them but to me they look good still. Never rotated them.

 

Brake and clutch fluids still clear.

 

Used Seafoam over the winter and add some periodically to the tank.

 

Manual calls for :

- Final gear oil change

- coolant change (bike is 2yrs old)

- swingarm pivot bearing repack

- steering bearing repack (recently tightened steering head)

- rear suspension link pivots grease

 

For the last five... should I have the dealer do it (for warranty purposes) or is it easy enough to do yourself? I have a lift, lift adapter. Never done these things before. Generally, if it's in the book... I can do it.

 

What about valve adjustment? Needed now or later? Spark plugs ?

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Brakes are original and have a full set of EBC for front back. At the NY rally last year Pioneer said I still had 1/2 of the pad remaining. Could do them but to me they look good still. Never rotated them.

 

Brake and clutch fluids still clear.

 

Manual calls for :

- Final gear oil change

- coolant change (bike is 2yrs old)

- swingarm pivot bearing repack

- steering bearing repack (recently tightened steering head)

- rear suspension link pivots grease

 

What about valve adjustment? Needed now or later? Spark plugs ?

 

25,000 km should not need much at all, brakes should be fine unless you were riding them, rest is should not be needed except, plugs (according to the manual) but these should be fine, and final gear oil is simple and for what it is worth do it every oil change.

 

Enjoy the ride. You were moving pretty good the other day.

 

Brad

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....Enjoy the ride. You were moving pretty good the other day.

 

Brad

 

What can I say.... 2nd Gen !

 

Took your suggestion on the flag and moved it more to the side of the saddle bag. Thanks ! Don't see the back of my own bike when riding and the 1st Gen's I've passed were moving to slow to see it ! :-p

:rotf:

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  • 2 weeks later...

Tried the multi-meter (with inductive pick-up) and found that the rpm reading isn't usable. Idling the meter ranges from 300rpm to 1400rpm and jumps all over the place.

Going to return it today so I'm still looking for for a decent tach for doing tune-ups.

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