Canadian Venture Posted November 30, 2011 Share #1 Posted November 30, 2011 And its not hello you are welcome! 1987 venture royale, 126,000 miles. I put 12,000 miles the summer before with grin always plastered to face! Beautiful ride, love the cruise control and radio. Wanting to raise my idle speed this summer, I located what seemed the "general screw" after turning the throttle that would do this on the carbs. I upped the idle speed and to my horror the motor started to knock. I backed the screw to what I thought was the original position but the knock is still there and has stayed with me the rest of the summer. My mileage went for a dump big time, down from 175 miles/tank to 145/tank. The knock does not seem to be "location specific" ie.: one piston/left/right side. I can remember tuning cars (dad was a mechanic) in the seventies with the first emission cars where turning the distributor to set timing, you could induce knock. Have I inadvertently done this and how do I proceed to get rid of this? Tanx! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted November 30, 2011 Share #2 Posted November 30, 2011 You may have turned one of the carb sync screws and upset the carb balances. Not very familiar with the RSV's but the 1st gens have a thumb type screw for idle adjust. If you had to use a screwdriver, you may need a carb sync. It would have the effect of raising the idle speed, but only on 1 or 2 cylinders. There are 3 of these screws, 1 on left side & 2 on right. Somewhat sensitive to setting, a 1/8 of a turn will upset bike. One of the guys more familiar with the 2nd gen will be by shortly to help. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
XV1100SE Posted November 30, 2011 Share #3 Posted November 30, 2011 One of the guys more familiar with the 2nd gen will be by shortly to help. His post said it was an '87 - 1st Gen. Welcome to the forum ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted November 30, 2011 Share #4 Posted November 30, 2011 Yup, that's what I'm thinking too, what you thought was the idle screw was really one of the carb sync screws and now the carbs need to be re-synced. Not an extremely difficult job but you need a quad vacuum gauge set up to do it. Not sure where in Ontario you are but I'm sure there are a few members up there that are familiar with the procedure and have the setup. The most popular setup is the Morgan carb tune which runs around $100 give or take. Welcome to the site! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted November 30, 2011 Share #5 Posted November 30, 2011 His post said it was an '87 - 1st Gen. Welcome to the forum ! All the easier then. Idle adjust screw is on left side of bike. Between front and rear carb there is a bar tying the two carbs together on lower side. On the bottom side of this bar there is a large head, thumb type screw, oriented up and down- adjust head to bottom. This is the idle adjust screw. Carb sync screws are in between front and rear carbs and aligned horizontally, 1 one left side & two on right side. They look a lot like idle adjust screws on other carb equid motors, but they serve a different function on this bike. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trader Posted November 30, 2011 Share #6 Posted November 30, 2011 Not sure what members we have in the Sault Ste Marie area....but if there is nobody around you can make your own sync tool pretty cheaply with parts from Princess Auto or CTC. do a search on how to do a carb sync....lots of threads on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yamamike Posted November 30, 2011 Share #7 Posted November 30, 2011 Not sure what members we have in the Sault Ste Marie area....but if there is nobody around you can make your own sync tool pretty cheaply with parts from Princess Auto or CTC. do a search on how to do a carb sync....lots of threads on it. Hey Trader, With your set-up, I'm guessing you open the valve on the hose going to each carb individually as you move from one to the next?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trader Posted November 30, 2011 Share #8 Posted November 30, 2011 (edited) Hey Trader, With your set-up, I'm guessing you open the valve on the hose going to each carb individually as you move from one to the next?? Yeah...that's right. the #2 carb has no adjustments. You have to sync all of them to the #2 setting So set the idle to about 950-1000 rpm Open the #2 valve to see the vacume level. Close #2, open #1 and adjust the screw as needed on #1. Then close 1, open 3 adjust to 2, close 3, recheck 1 etc etc As you adjust one, it can change the others...so there is a lot of going back and forth. That's the advantage of a Carb Tune...you can see all at the same time. You COULD use 4 guages...but then you have to be concerned with it they are all identically calibrated or not The idea is that all are balanced to #2 FWIW......It's not MY set up...the suggestion and the pictures I posted actually came from another member who sent them to me to help me when I was asking the same questions you are! One suggestion...make sure you use a heavy enough hose so when it warms up it doesn't collaps under vacume.(like the first one I used did!) Gotta love this site. Edited November 30, 2011 by Trader Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mbrood Posted November 30, 2011 Share #9 Posted November 30, 2011 The idle speed adjust is the knurled knob between the two (empty) drain tube holders on the lower mount plate. The straight slot screw between the carbs balances the sync between carbs 1 and 2. http://www.bergall.org/temp/venture/idle_screw.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jilldwr Posted November 30, 2011 Share #10 Posted November 30, 2011 I had the same problem with my Goldwing. It sounded like a diesel it knocked so bad. I bought a carb synch tool off Fleabay for $56 and synched the carbs. It ran like a top afterwards: The trick is to mount each gauge in turn to the same carb and synchronize the gauges, once each gauge is the same, your ready to tackle the carbs and you can see what each carb is doing as your fudging the linkage. If the gauge needles bounce, reduce the supplied valve until they stabilize. The supplied threads for this kit are M4 threads, I believe the RSV is M5 (though I may be mistaken), so beware. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BradT Posted December 1, 2011 Share #11 Posted December 1, 2011 Not sure what members we have in the Sault Ste Marie area.... E-Fishin in Sudbury would be the closest member, but that is not going to help you much. Good Luck and I am suppose to be in the Sault next summer, if you can wait. Brad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Canadian Venture Posted December 2, 2011 Author Share #12 Posted December 2, 2011 Tanx for info and will try and dbug this winter. Am in search for a manual and see lots of ads w/manual on cd. Which one is best/better? Oh! Found drive line play in universal at exit of motor. Does motor have to be out to replace this? Also: some one installed a "Progressive" shock on it to handle load of trailer, as it came w/a trailer hitch. Any adjustment seems possible only after I remove the whole assembly to crank down the setting on the shock for a heavier load. Would like to reinstall original shock as it has adjustment for load and dampening and I have removed hitch, if she wants to load that much on bike, she can follow me in motor home! Trade a good shock for a trailer hitch anyone? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
utadventure Posted December 2, 2011 Share #13 Posted December 2, 2011 You can download the manual here: http://labs.trunkful.com/vrmanuals/index.cfm Your '87 is a First Gen/MKII Good luck!! Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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