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How much heated clothing


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Not a chance, unless you manage the use to each unit. Also you need to asess the total of your lighting and other electrical draw. I have Gerbing and use mostly the gloves in real cold environment. The jacket rarely is used. This bieng said, if I had my wife in the same gear the battery would be dead in short time. Look at a high output stator for the RSV and that may do the trick. These RSVs don't put out a lot of amps.

 

:farmer:

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We run two heated jackets all the time. And I have the driving lights on too. I try to turn my jacket off when ever in stop and go traffic in town but I don't know if I need to and sometime I forget too. I don't have a volt meter on my bike but we've been running two jackets for a couple of years with no problems. I would say the gloves wouldn't be a problem without the driving lights on. Running a volt meter would definitely tell you what's happening while the extra load is being used.

I have the stock stator.

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On my '07 with my jacket on high after about 30 minutes I could see the voltage starting to drop on the Kuryakyn LED voltmeter. Never to the discharge point but definitely not at full potential. Of course I rarely ran the jacket on high for 30 minutes at a time.

 

Dennis

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Preserving watt's is a key to run heated clothing. I have successfully run 2 full sets of heated clothing.

1- replace turn signal / break light bulbs with LED

2- Disconnect carb heaters when you using heated clothing

3- Turn off passing lights ( if you have installed)

4- Get Volt meter installed.

 

Good Luck

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Successfully running and continuous running are two different things. You can successfully run two sets of heated clothing for some time. You cannot run two sets continuously for hours. The drain on the system will catch up. When you go below 12.5 volts on your battery it is just a matter of time before disaster happens. By managing your heat use you can keep the battery voltage up. Using LEDs and not using the pass lamps is a big help. Carb heaters are not on all the time so the disconnecting of them is a matter of opinion.

 

And that is my opinion!

 

:farmer:

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To save wattage on the bike in order to run electrical riding gear, you can change out more than your signal lights..

 

Headlights 65/55 wats OEM: HID light 35 watts

Highway lights 35W each = 70W: LED highway lights, 12W each =24W

LED signal lights and brake lights... minimal difference really..

 

So by going HID and LED highway lamps, you're saving up 76W or so that go towards heated gear..

 

I only tried a heated vest once in the cold and found it too hot..

 

The other alternative are the battery operated gear.. good for a day ride and rechargeable. I can't remember where I'd seen them, though did run into a couple who rode with it and they loved it. Not blistering hot, but easily keeps the chill off..

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I have been running the heated vest, gloves, and chaps since 2000 on my 2000 MM RSV. Always use the battery tender when not riding for more than 2 days. When the wife was passenger which was most of the time everything was double meaning she had it all on too. Replaced my original battery this past summer. Not out of necessity but out of fear as it was 11 years old. I never had a problem running out of juice. I did however have a heat troller electronic thermostat on all the gear. maybe I was lucky but I did have a volt meter and never noticed a problem and I have as many lights as some people, and more than most.

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I've never owned any of that stuff, i do however have a 1/2 mil wet suit, full size, and i ride with it when the temps in south florida get down to the 30's. I wear baggy pants and an air jacket ( most sporting goods store will carry it)

this is me with all the stuff on

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I did the stator upgrade on my 2000

RSV. I run a gerbings jacket liner, pands and gloves. I have no problems. Before I did the upgrade the system would not handle the load. I think my stator came from buckeye performance. Easy install. It took me about 3 hrs and I am no mechanic.

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