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XV1100SE

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I'm looking at getting the 100 LED brake light and the integrated LED run/brake/turn signals from Custom Dynamics.

 

Rear Signal lights - Dynamic Cluster - "The Dynamic Clusters will fit into your turn signal housings. You will need to find out if you have 1156 or 7507 bulbs in the rear. Now for the running and brake of the cluster you will have to hard wire that in. The signal light just plugs in.

You will also need a load equalizer or a metric signal stabilizer. The Metric Signal Stabilizer will not produce any heat. That will allow you to run your 4 ways flashers and not do any damage.

If you leave the front turn signals stock. It will NOT cause any issue. If you just do the rear LEDs you will only need one load equalizer. If you decide to do the front turn signals at a latter date you will need a load equalizer for the front."

http://www.customdynamics.com/motorcycle_dynamic_clusters.htm

GEN200-AR-7507-T $81/pair

*** confirm signal lighbulb type - other option is GEN200-AR-1156-T

See the following link to identify bulb type - http://www.customdynamics.com/bulb_identification_help.htm

http://www.customdynamics.com/loadequalizer.htm#Universal Turn Signal

GEN-7.5-30 $15.25

 

100 LED Brake light - "The GEN-100-1157 YAM tail light is a direct replacement for your tail light and will not require any modules"

http://www.customdynamics.com/Yamaha_tail_retro.htm

GEN-100-1157YAM - $89.95

There are discount codes available on the Internet that give a 5% discount on orders over $150. I've asked them if it is possible to set one up for VentureRiders.org but since there is no "payback" to the site it probably doesn't matter. The code I found that works is "rswarrior". I'll update this if they provide a special one for us.

 

I am not associated with Custom Dynamics and am providing this information for members so they have the details in one thread should they want to upgrade to LED.

 

Free shipping to the U.S.. To Canada only option is UPS Expedited at $32.95 (site says no brokerage fee). I've asked if they will ship USPS to Canada.

 

Another member also mentioned to tell them that the bike has a radio on it so they will apply an RF coating to the wiring. Response from Custom Dynamics (and they have been very responsive!) "If you use the load equalizer there will be no interferance. If you were to use our Signal Stabilizer I would get the RF coating. That will do away with any chances of getting any RF noise"

Edited by XV1100SE
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Response to a couple questions to Custom Dynamics (and they have been very responsive!)

"If you use the load equalizer there will be no interferance. If you were to use our Signal Stabilizer I would get the RF coating. That will do away with any chances of getting any RF noise. As far as adding a code to your forum, You would have to take that up with our office manager.

About the shipping, we just have had to many lost packages thru USPS. Also we have had some order that take over a month to be delivered. Its not that we will not ship USPS, we will. It will just be on you if something happens. We can't guarantee the shipment. There is no insurance or tracking.

Dennis"

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Contact info for Custom Dynamics and the person I've been emailing :

Custom Dynamics®

12335-203 Wake Union Church Rd

Wake Forest, NC 27587

http://www.customdynamics.com

Email: dennis@customdynamics.com

Phone: 800-382-1388

Phone: 919-554-0949

Fax: 919-882-9611

 

I'm going to be placing an order for the items above for myself and also a brake light for "The Count" (Steve). If anyone else in S/W Ontario wants something maybe we can split shipping/broker fees by having one larger order.

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I am also not affiliated with Custom Dynamics either.

I have known the owner Dave since he started the business online out of his house in Wake Forest NC. Now it is a large business that they have a store and travel trailer to take to most major motorcycle events. He goes to many events each year.

I have the original LED Tail light I believe it is the 48 LED one, front LED turn signals, rear Run/Turn/Brake clusters. I don’t have the equalizers because I liked the faster flashing turn signals. It hasn’t messed anything up yet and I have had it this way for 4+ years. I also have their under-glow LED all under my bike as well. Dave stands behind his product and is a pleasure to work with.

The lights def make you more visible.

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Received the Dynamic Cluster and 100 LED brake light Monday and worked on the install Monday and Tuesday evening.

 

For the installation...

 

Turn signals :

I started with the signal lights first. The Dynamic Cluster has a plug in for where the old bulb used to be but has two wires (running and brake light) that need to be connected. I ran them to the brake light figuring that would be the easiest and closest location.

 

The instructions mention drilling a hole thru the back of the signal housing but I choose to keep it clean and run the wires thru the bracket that attaches the signal housing to the fender... figured I'd follow the same path that the existing signal lights follow.

 

Lets say the second signal light went smoother than the first. There is very little slack in the wires so I removed my trailer receiver and bent the clips back inside the fender to loosen the wire. Unbolted the signal assembly from the fender (bolts are inside the fender) and pulled the bulb socket and rubber boot out... and with moving it around trying to get the cluster wires thru.... the ground wire came off the bottom of the socket. Patched in a little extra wire for slack and soldered it back onto the base.

 

Used a wire hangar to fish the wires thru the bracket and then thru the grommet on the fender. Bolted the bracket back onto the fender . For protection of the wires, I used heat shrink tubing to cover the wires inside the fender to run to the hole/grommet leading to the brake light. Cut a "V" in the tubing to cover the wires going into the signal bracket hole.

 

Running the wires into the brake light was fun. There is a rubber boot inside the fender for the grommet leading to the brake light. Using my expensive tool (coat hangar) I pushed the hangar thru from the brake light housing thru the rubber boot and taped the wires to the hangar and pulled them thru.

 

Connection to the run/brake wires was easy using the supplied connectors (posi-lock). Tested signals and brake/run lights several times thru the steps because of the wire I had to solder.

Yellow wire - brake

Blue wire - running light

 

Used dish soap to coat the rubber boot around the old bulb connector and pushed it back into the signal bracket. Put the covers back onto the signal housing and that was done.

 

100 LED Brake Light

The cluster is mounted on a board with three holes for the cover screws to go thru. Plug in the socket from the light board to the bulb socket, align the screws and put the cover back on. Done.

 

Load Balancer

Because the LED signal lights have lower resistance than incandescent bulbs you need a load balancer/equalizer or the bike thinks a bulb is burned out and they flash quick. I connected mine under the seat by using the supplied connectors (posi-lock) and spliced into the wires leading to the tail lights. The balancer has a connector on the end of the wires that needs to be cut off. Three wires - ground, and two wires that connect to the signal lights.

I have an isolator for my trailer lights (also LED but the isolator doesn't make the lights flash fast). I didn't want to confuse things so I made sure I located the wire leading directly to the rear signal lights.

Left wire - Brown

Right wire - Green

Ground wire - Black

Test the lights... find room for the balancer under the seat... attach seat... test lights ... Done.

 

Results

I already had the trunk wing brake light but replacing the stock brake light and adding brakes/run lights to the signal housing definitely makes the rear of the bike more visble. A lot brighter and more coverage. A very positive upgrade !

Custom Dynamics was good to deal with and shipped the products the same day.

 

Pictures

Two pictures at night - running lights, then with brake on

Daytime picture - brake lights

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  • 4 weeks later...

I bought the same LED set from Custom Dynamics:

 

Rear Signal lights - Dynamic Cluster - GEN200-AR-7507-T

 

Load Equalizer - GEN-7.5-30

 

100 LED Brake light - GEN-100-1157YAM

 

I installed everything this evening. Pretty much followed XV1100SE's procedure, except rather than take the running/brake wires from the turn signal housing to the brake light, I continued to feed them through the turn signal wiring harness up to that little compartment behind the license plate. I made the connection there. Agreeing with XV1100SE, the second went far smoother than the first. Running those two extra wires makes it difficult to get the rubber boot and bulb socket back in (even with soap). Did a quick check before installing the load equalizer and everything worked, turn signals blinking fast as expected. I installed the load equalizer under the seat - no problem. I took the bike out for a test drive and found that both turn signals are erratic. They blink normally (slow) for about 5 blinks then go rapidly for 3-4 blinks, then back to slow. It continues through this sequence. My wife thought it was kind of catchy but I noticed when it blinks fast, my front turn signals (normal bulbs) are less noticeable. I would prefer the slow, constant blink. Any thoughts? The load equalizer must be more than just a shunt resistor. I'll call Custom Dynamics tomorrow. Need a quick fix as I'm heading out for a 3-day bike trip around the Chesapeake on Thursday. It would nice to have this fixed. Thanks.

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I also did the 100 LED plug and play tail light. Way brighter then stock. I also changed over my front turn signals to the moon shines (plug and play) LEDs they are also running lights. Also did the same for the rear. I like the fast blinking. I did not us a load equalizer for any of this, will it hurt the bike?

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I also did the 100 LED plug and play tail light. Way brighter then stock. I also changed over my front turn signals to the moon shines (plug and play) LEDs they are also running lights. Also did the same for the rear. I like the fast blinking. I did not us a load equalizer for any of this, will it hurt the bike?

 

I think I'd like the faster blinking signals as well. Question is, does the self cancel still work without the load equalizer?

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....Pretty much followed XV1100SE's procedure ...

... I took the bike out for a test drive and found that both turn signals are erratic.

 

I hope that what I documented helped in your install.

As for the erratic lights... mine flash at a consistent slow speed (what I'd consider normal). Only things I can think of is your load balancer:

- isn't working properly

- bad connection to the two power lines or ground -if both signal lights are affected I'd point to ground

- check to make sure you have the rear signal wires under the seat. The lines come from the plug connector and go into the fender.

Edited by XV1100SE
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I think I'd like the faster blinking signals as well. Question is, does the self cancel still work without the load equalizer?

 

 

Yes self cancle still works with faster blinkinb. I have Custom Dynamics clusters in the front and run/turn/brake in rear. They flash faster but I like it because i feel is catches attention better. They do still cancel.

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Yes self cancle still works with faster blinkinb. I have Custom Dynamics clusters in the front and run/turn/brake in rear. They flash faster but I like it because i feel is catches attention better. They do still cancel.

 

My thoughts on the faster blinking exactly. Anything out of the ordinary, that catch peoples attention, is a plus when riding to me.

 

I was just concerned that the self cancel still worked.

 

Thanks for the info!

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I hope that what I documented helped in your install.

As for the erratic lights... mine flash at a consistent slow speed (what I'd consider normal). Only things I can think of is possible your related to your load balancer:

- isn't working properly

- bad connection to the two power lines or ground -if both signal lights are affected I'd point to ground

- check to make sure you have the rear signal wires under the seat. The lines come from the plug connector and go into the fender.

 

Your instructions were great. Install was pretty straightforward. I unplugged the rear wiring harness under the seat before I installed the equalizer to make sure I had the correct wires. All connections, including ground are good.

 

I talked to Custom Dynamics today. First they said that not installing the load equalizer and going with the rapid turn signals is not a problem. Lots of people prefer it that way. They also said that others have reported the erratic flash while using the load equalizer. They couldn't say whether or not it was specific to the Venture. They also couldn't tell me why the equalizer doesn't work. They recommended that I go with the metric signal stabilizer (RF version). That has solved the problem. They said they would cheerfully accept return of the equalizer (for the more expensive stabilizer).:whistling:

 

I leave for the Chesapeake tomorrow morning. I pulled the equalizer out this evening and will go with the hot flash. Deal with it when I get back. Thanks for everyone's input.

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I unplugged the rear wiring harness under the seat before I installed the equalizer to make sure I had the correct wires. All connections, including ground are good.

 

I spliced into the ground wire that is part of the rear light harness under the seat. Did you do this as well or to a separate ground?

 

You have the same parts I have... mine works. Are you wired for a trailer?

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I spliced into the ground wire that is part of the rear light harness under the seat. Did you do this as well or to a separate ground?

 

You have the same parts I have... mine works. Are you wired for a trailer?

 

Yes, I connected to the rear light harness ground wire under the seat. No trailer. Perhaps that's the key. Custom Dynamics said that the flasher senses insufficient load in the turn signal circuit. The load equalizer increases the load, but apparently not enough. Your trailer's turn signal adds additional load to the same circuit. Perhaps I need a trailer.:)

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If thats what it takes to convince your other half to get a trailer....then that's the issue for sure !

When I wired mine I considered the trailer isolator to be a separate circuit/path and cut into the leads going to the rear lights, just as you did. Still think it could be your load equalizer.... and still possibly your ground if you used the connectors that came with the kit (in solder I trust, quick connects would be my first suspect).

Just in case.... since you've been focussing on the rear of the bike.... any chance your incandescent bulbs in the front signals are burned out? That would also make them flash quickly. I know its obvious.... but you never know unless you ask/look.

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.... Your trailer's turn signal adds additional load to the same circuit.

 

Sorry... to clarify.... my trailer isn't always connected to the bike so it isn't the load from the trailer (which I converted to LED lighting anyway). I have a Reese powered isolator that is always connected. Before I connected the balancer I tested the lights and they flashed quickly so I know they don't work because of the trailer isolator. Once I connected the load balancer the rear signals flashed at the slower speed.

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TwoStars, I also ordered the 100 LED brake light and front and rear turn signals from Custom Dynamics, great people there. To get my lights to flash at normal rate I had to use one of their load equalizers (pn# GEN-7.5-30) connected to the front signals (put it in the headlight bezel since that is an easy place to hide it and get to the front signal wires), and 2 load equalizers (mounted under the seat) on the rear lights to get them to flash at the normal rate. I used my stock flasher so I still have my self cancel feature. If you order the kit that they say works with the RSTD or Venture it really doesn't. You do not need the diode kit for the flasher indicator on the dash and the stock flasher works fine once you install the load equalizers as I did. You just have to put enough load back on the system to get the stock flasher to work normal. If anyone has questions I'd be glad to share more.

Edited by lonewolf96
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I'm pretty sure there is close to the same current draw with the load equalizers but they are only on the flasher circuit to make the flasher flash at the correct rate. So as far as the current draw you are only looking at an extra draw when the flashers are flashing. With the way Custome Dynamics does their front signal the light is actually at 100% brightness for the running light and it goes out as it flashes. When your flashers are on, the front and rear light are actually alternating being lit so only one is on at a time. No real testing here just observations. So I'm guessing the gain by going LED is brighter lights, and you do lose some current draw by getting rid of the incandecent running light on the front.

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