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The first:

 

I put the key in the bike and turned it to the "start" position and all that came on was the accessories. I had to turn the key back and try to get it to stay in between the "accessories" and "start" position to get the bike to turn over. Is this a problem that I can fix without having to buy a whole new ignition switch? I am hoping that something is just loose and can be tightened.

 

The second:

 

Not a huge issue but would like some advice. I would like to clean the carbs out and was thinking that I could do it the way I used to on my old Q-jet that was on my Chevelle; just shoot some brake cleaner down each carb and then run the bike to flush it out. I have done this on many different carbs and never had any issues. Is there any components on the RSV carbs that may be negatively affected by the brake cleaner?

 

Thanks,

Bubba

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Ditto what Brad said. I just recently had to have my switch replaced on my 03 because the dash board would be blank @ times and the starter switch would be dead or hesitate. I would have to jiggle the keyed switch a bit sometimes. It was replaced under warranty. The main reason I'm responding to this post is that my dealers mechanic was able to match the new electronics to the old switch and I didn't have to get a new key. That's a plus. If the wd40 doesn't solve the problem and you have to get a new switch check with the mechanic and see if he has the expertise to change out the old electronics and match the new ones with the old key switch. I have never heard anyone on this sight mention this as possible to do. The keyed portion should last forever unless it has been damaged for some reason.

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If it hasn't already your 99 will leave you stranded!! Don't wait for the switch to go out completely replace it now!! You can do the job yourself and swap the key part out easily. You will need a drill to do it as the screws are anti theft and need to be drilled out. I did mine in about an hour or so. The best place to find the switch is Buckeye performance and the number is 513-779-2447. I buy all my parts from this guy. He will take the time to help you and send all parts needed to replace the defective switch. The old switch has been updated and you will recieve the new one. They look the same but the contacts have been beefed up. If you would like to talk to me about it you may give me a call at 205-242-0950 Good luck. Eddie Fulmer

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Don't know much about the key problem but sounds like you got some good advice anyway.

If you are having problems with the Carbs, spraying that stuff down the throat is going to do little if anything to help a dirty Carb. To clean the Carb you can try some seafoam in the fuel but the best way is to take the bowls off and clean the inside of the bowls and any air/fuel ports in the Carb.

Don't forget the fuel filter!

Jerry

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What problems are you having that you feel you need to "clean out the carbs"?

 

I used to work on cars ALOT and in my own experience, it is good to flush out your carbs from time to time. They tend to get a great deal of dirt built up around the jets. It is more preventative maintainence than anything else and it can only help. Plus with all the crap floating around in the air these days, there is a lot of junk getting by the air filters.

 

On my old bike, (a honda shadow ace) I would take the air cleaner off and shoot some brake cleaner in the carb every other oil change and would see a big difference in performance. The bike would start quicker and run smoother at ilde.

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I had the same issue with the ignition switch on my 99 RSV, what I did is I removed the switch opened the bottom, clean the contacts (they were pitted), and reinstalled. Working fine since.

 

For more info look at the following link: http://www.venturers.org/Tech_Library/index.php?action=article&cat_id=002007&id=245

 

 

Thanks for the tip. I think I will try that before I drop $150 on a new switch.

:lightbulb:

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Thanks for the tip. I think I will try that before I drop $150 on a new switch.

:lightbulb:

 

 

Hello again,

Please note that there are 2 articles on the main switch on that site, both under Tech Lib, Second gen, Electrical.

 

Also please note that removing the 2 screws, holding the switch assembly on the bike, could be quite a challenge, I remember having a hard time and having to use a punch to start them unscrew. (blue locktite used)

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I'm not saying that cleaning the contacts is not fine but I would caution you all that it is probably a temporary solution. Most electrical contacts are plated. Sometime nickel, sometimes copper, etc. I don't know if the contacts in this switch or solid copper or copper plated but if they are plated and you clean them enough to actually remove the pitting, I can assure you that you are only buying some time. They are copper plated to improve the conductivity. Once that copper is removed then the resistance between the contacts will be greater, arcing will be greater and you will get pitting again but sooner and worse than before.

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most contacts are silver, brass or nickel plated for longer life. i have notice in recent yrs they are making the plating thinner to cut cost. on my nissian truck i have installed 4 starters(rebilt in mexico) as a result of burning thru the plating and carbon preventing it to make contact. most times filing or cleaning the contact is mostly a short term fix. the 96-99 standard royal stars had some of the same problems with the switchs. lots of the pitting of contacts is caused by high amps draw (as you may want to turn running lite off and headlite on low before turning on switch). or it maybe a bad batch of switches during the first yrs of production. also be easier to replace now and not on the road far from home or dealer( not a stock item every where).

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