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Hello all I just bought a 1984 Venture with 26,000 miles from a guy who left it in the back of the garage and went to look up parts but don't know what model it is by the VIN. Could some one help me out please. Thanks in Advance. Al

VIN# JYA41V007EA002580 options when I look up parts are (XVZ12DKC2) (XVZ12DL) (XVZ12KC2) (XVZ12L) :mytruck1:

Also what should I look for when I tear this bike down to inspect it.

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With the exception of California emmissions stuff or metric speedometer, all the parts should be the same. The Venture Standard model did not have the radio or CLASS system whereas the royale does. Wiring harnesses are different slightly between the 2.

 

I forgot what all the different letters stand for but I'm sure someone will chime in. It has been mentioned before.

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VIN search returns 1984 YAMAHA XVZ12D

 

XVZ12 is the model.

D tells us it's a Royale.

Yamaha tagged on a year designator next (1984=L)

 

So, it's an XVZ12DL.

 

If it had California emissions it'd be an XVZ12DLC.

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Also what should I look for when I tear this bike down to inspect it.

 

Not that I have had any experience working on a Venture but I've been reading the forums for quite a while. Yesterday I removed my '90 VR from storage, where it has been sitting for over a year, and rode it to my workshop. I am about to embark on the same journey you are. Mine runs, you did not indicate whether yours does or not. I stored it with Seafoam in the tank and had it on a float charger and it fired up first try.

 

What happened during the time in storage is the display stopped functioning. Also, when I got it there was a problem with the neutral light and gear display shutting off after warming up. Those two things are first on my list. The lack of neutral light and gear display are symptoms of poor connections in the switch located inside the left cover. There could be other causes but that is the most common one and is supposed to be a fairly easy fix. The faulty computer display is also most commonly caused by poor connections. This one is apparently a bit of a headache to fix since it requires removal of the fairing to get at the computer and likely will need re-soldering of the connection joints.

 

Check all wires for signs of overheating and clean all connections. Pay particular attention to the battery terminals and neg to ground connection. Clean what is there, neg term to engine, and add a second ground from the neg term to the frame using a #8 wire or larger.

 

Changing "all" fluids is a good thing to do with an unknown history and is reasonably easy to do.

 

If it's running OK, inspect the fuel tank for rust caused by condensation and change the fuel filtre. Cut the filtre open looking for signs of rust will also aid in assessing the state of the tank. Don't forget to check the fuel lines for swollen or punky rubber.

 

If the engine runs but not properly, the carb's may be gobbed up with varnish. Drain the tank of any old fuel inspect tank and replace with a half tank of fresh fuel and half a can of Seafoam. If you can't get Seafoam in your area use about 4 oz any brand of camp fuel which is just naptha. This should clear up minor blockages in the carb's otherwise a tear down will likely be needed.

 

Assuming the Mark I VR's have one, does the class system hold pressure? To make it work the ignition must be off and in the ACC position.

 

There is more but that will be a very good start.

 

The 1st gen Ventures are mostly the same but there are some specific differences between '83 and later Mark I and also between '86 and later Mark II. So do take the time to put the year and model of your bike in your profile. Doing so will be helpful to others in answering your questions.

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This one is apparently a bit of a headache to fix since it requires removal of the fairing to get at the computer and likely will need re-soldering of the connection joints.

 

You needn't pull the fairing to get to the CMS.

 

Pull off the windshield, headlight and turn signals.

 

Through the turn signal openings you can get to the phillips screws to pull the shroud off the cluster.

 

Through the headlamp you can get to the 10mm nuts that hold the cluster in place. Unscrew the speedo cable and lift the cluster a bit. Then pull the two electrical connectors from the back and the cluster will be free.

 

The CMS is mounted in from the back of the cluster. You have to twist it a little when removing because it's got a light pipe on it.

 

BTW, one other significant change in the model line up: Starting in 1990 they went from a TCI igniter (with 4 pick up coils) to a computerized ignition (1 pick up coil). You cannot use a pre 1990 igniter or pick up coils in a late MKII or vice versa.

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Very timely post and will probably be helpful to asigetic as well. This afternoon I started to clean up the connections around the battery area then pulled the windshield off and started looking around for the way to remove the front fairing. Got stumped - duh - so I came in here to read the manual on how to proceed. Got a feeling the fairing might have to come off to get at the rest of the connectors I can see but can't reach. For now though I just have to figure out how to get the headlight off. :bang head:

 

Thanks for the heads up. :thumbsup2:

 

You needn't pull the fairing to get to the CMS.

 

Pull off the windshield, headlight and turn signals.

 

Through the turn signal openings you can get to the phillips screws to pull the shroud off the cluster.

 

Through the headlamp you can get to the 10mm nuts that hold the cluster in place. Unscrew the speedo cable and lift the cluster a bit. Then pull the two electrical connectors from the back and the cluster will be free.

 

The CMS is mounted in from the back of the cluster. You have to twist it a little when removing because it's got a light pipe on it.

 

BTW, one other significant change in the model line up: Starting in 1990 they went from a TCI igniter (with 4 pick up coils) to a computerized ignition (1 pick up coil). You cannot use a pre 1990 igniter or pick up coils in a late MKII or vice versa.

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You may or may not have to pull the headlight, to get the CMS out, depending on your tools. I pulled my CMS a few times, and never took my headlight out.

 

After sitting a while, you may notice the clutch doesn't work. Bleeding it usually takes care of that problem. The bleeder is under a rubber cover near the left driver footpeg.

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