LED Signal light EQUALIZER quandry HELP

[Seaking]

Hi guys, hoping one of you savvy lads out there can help me out.

 

I have installed some bright LED signal lights on the RSV, and being LED they will naturally blink rather fast.. To slow such lights, we typically install Load Equalizers.. No problem there..

 

The recommended ones from Custom Dynamics: Genesis Metric Load Equalizer 7.5 Ohm GEN-7.5-30

 

These are small blocks that have two purple and one black wires coming out of them.. And ideally you install one on each end of the bike for each set.. one of the purples to the GREEN and BROWN signal light wires and the black to ground.. Simple right? ergh I wish.

 

I've temp installed one at the front under the fairing where the wires are very accessible, and the other in the bundle under the license plate.. Brown and green..

 

Though they will slow down the 4 way flashers.. they have NO effect on the signal lights.. I know I have the right wires because when I pull them apart the signals lights stop flashing...

 

I then took the large bundle under the seat, to the left side, and plugged one of the equalizers into the green and brown wires there.. and now the 4 ways and signal lights flash fast..

 

I have the SAME load equalizers working on my VSTar, it works.. the SAME one won't work on the RSV.. I have 5 of these, and none of them work on the RSV but they will on the VStar..

 

Am I doing something wrong here as to what and where I'm plugging these in? I've seen other posts where people have the same same equalizers working on their bikes and mine won't work..

 

Any ideas, suggestions, advice? Am I plugging these in the wrong wires?

 

Fast flashers don't bother me but you know how it is.. how many times before I growl at someone for them saying "Hey Mister, you know ya got a light out??"

 

Thanks in advance for your assistance..

 

If you're using something else that works, let me know what it is and WHERE / HOW you plugged it in, please..

 

Cheers =)

 

Bike is almost ready for the road.. that is when the ice melts..

[Carbon_One]

I've run into the same problem with those load equalizers from Custom Dynamics. 4-ways working fine but individual turns, nope too fast still.

I've tried a couple others too with the same results so finally gave up. Custom Dynamics also sells a flasher that is supposed to do the job but you'll lose the self-cancelling feature when installed. I haven't spent the money on one yet to find out if it doers work thou.

Anyhow I'd be interested in what others have to say about this topic as well.

Larry

[Flyinfool]

I thought there was a thread on here somewhere on how to install the new flasher that will work correctly with LEDs, and still keep the self canceling???

There were 3 relays involved and a wiring diagram for the fix.

[bkuhr]

The recommended ones from Custom Dynamics: Genesis Metric Load Equalizer 7.5 Ohm GEN-7.5-30

 

Just a guess, but 1156 turn bulb are rated at 6.0 Ohm, and pull a load of 2amps per bulb on a 12v circuit. (ex: left turn front and rear bulb=4amps, 4way hazard=8amps)

Your equalizer is pulling 1.6 amps per bulb(ex:left turn front and rear bulb=3.2amps,4way hazard-6.4amps)

 

I would guess that the turn flasher, which used a thermal bi-metal contact requires almost all of the designed 4 amps, and 3.2 amps is not enough. The Hazard is a different flasher and seems ok with 6.4 to 8 amps).

 

Suggestion would be to replace turn flasher with a different one that requires lower load, maybe the same part number used on VStar, maybe generic 2 pin flasher from autoparts, could also consider solid state flasher that would not require any load resistors. Finally could use different load resistors. Superbrightled.com has some here http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Ftail-brake-turn.html%23flasher

 

Just looked at Superbrightled.com again and they have the solid state flashers at same link above. This would be my first option, as you would not need load resisters at all and you "give back" 4 amps of power to your bikes electrical system to be used for other toys.

Edited February 27, 2011 by bkuhr
more info

[Cougar]

I got the Unit that Larry is talking about , but losing the self-canceling made it worse for me and more dangerous, and that can cause a car or whatever to turn in front of you with them thinking that your making a turn, (cus I forget the cancel the blinker) I removed mine and let them blink fast. I like the auto cancle feature. C/D does not make a unit that does this yet for the LED set-up , I called them.

[bongobobny]

A poor man's fix is to get a couple of bulbs and sockets, paint the bulbs black, and hook them in parallel with a left and right turn signal, either front or back. Seeing as the front and rear turn signals are in parallel altready (on the same line) you do not need 2 pairs of load ballasts, just one set. The black line goes to ground, and the purple ones go to one green and one brown wire...

 

If you want additional turn signals somewhere, you won't have to black out the bulbs, just make sure the extra turn signals are not LED's!

[Guest tx2sturgis]

I suspect its the 6 ohm vs 7.5 ohm difference, as mentioned earlier. As a temporary test, try hooking up 2 equalizers in parallel on one side of the circuit.

 

Also, make sure the engine is running during testing, since a voltage drop when the stator is not charging can cause a slightly lower temp on the bimetal strip ( or less current thru the transistors) of the flasher, and cause it to not operate correctly with these particular resistors.

 

[dunsonaventure]

On my 99 I also went to leds. got mine from kyryakyn and the came with one load eq.I installed under the seat the one to make sure it worked and it did. so I bought an additional one from kuryakyn to slow other side down.

[Seaking]

I suspect its the 6 ohm vs 7.5 ohm difference, as mentioned earlier. As a temporary test, try hooking up 2 equalizers in parallel on one side of the circuit.

 

Also, make sure the engine is running during testing, since a voltage drop when the stator is not charging can cause a slightly lower temp on the bimetal strip ( or less current thru the transistors) of the flasher, and cause it to not operate correctly with these particular resistors.

 

 

Darn! Never thought of THAT one!

 

I'll have to finish the bike and give it a try.. food for though indeed..

[Seaking]

Just a guess, but 1156 turn bulb are rated at 6.0 Ohm, and pull a load of 2amps per bulb on a 12v circuit. (ex: left turn front and rear bulb=4amps, 4way hazard=8amps)

Your equalizer is pulling 1.6 amps per bulb(ex:left turn front and rear bulb=3.2amps,4way hazard-6.4amps)

 

I would guess that the turn flasher, which used a thermal bi-metal contact requires almost all of the designed 4 amps, and 3.2 amps is not enough. The Hazard is a different flasher and seems ok with 6.4 to 8 amps).

 

Suggestion would be to replace turn flasher with a different one that requires lower load, maybe the same part number used on VStar, maybe generic 2 pin flasher from autoparts, could also consider solid state flasher that would not require any load resistors. Finally could use different load resistors. Superbrightled.com has some here http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Ftail-brake-turn.html%23flasher

 

Just looked at Superbrightled.com again and they have the solid state flashers at same link above. This would be my first option, as you would not need load resisters at all and you "give back" 4 amps of power to your bikes electrical system to be used for other toys.

 

I have one of their electronic flasher units and it doesn't work either.. Not sure why or what but as someone mentioned, perhaps I need the engine running to make it work properly, or simply put in a lightbulb in the circuit to fake a load.. sigh..

 

Thanks to all for your suggestions..

[Midrsv]

I'm running LED signals from Custom Dynamics with no problem. For LED's I used http://www.customdynamics.com/yamaha_turn_signal_retro.htm and for a load equalizer I'm using the Slim Line Metric Signal Stabilizer shown on this page http://www.customdynamics.com/loadequalizer.htm

 

Self cancelling still works.

 

Dennis

[Seaking]

I'm running LED signals from Custom Dynamics with no problem. For LED's I used http://www.customdynamics.com/yamaha_turn_signal_retro.htm and for a load equalizer I'm using the Slim Line Metric Signal Stabilizer shown on this page http://www.customdynamics.com/loadequalizer.htm

 

Self cancelling still works.

 

Dennis

 

What is the part number of the slim line metric signal stabilizer that you're using, just so I know exactly which one you're refering to..

 

I'm going to reinstall mine and flash up the bike to see if that was the deciding factor (doesn't actually make any sense to me but I'm no electrical genius!)..

 

Thanks!!

[Midrsv]

What is the part number of the slim line metric signal stabilizer that you're using, just so I know exactly which one you're refering to..

 

I'm going to reinstall mine and flash up the bike to see if that was the deciding factor (doesn't actually make any sense to me but I'm no electrical genius!)..

 

Thanks!!

 

I don't see a part number, it's just called the Slim Line Metric Signal Stabilizer

Dennis

[Flyinfool]

OK it took me a while to find it.

Here is what you need to do to use an electronic flasher AND still have your self canceling. Get rid of the band-aid load resistors that negate any amperage savings from the LEDs.

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showpost.php?p=498784&postcount=3

 

The electronic flashers have only a maximum amperage rating, and will flash at the same speed regardless of how few, how many (within the max amp limit), or what type or combination of bulbs you have.

[Seaking]

I don't see a part number, it's just called the Slim Line Metric Signal Stabilizer

 

Dennis

 

I'm not sure but I'm seeing 6 different ones, black and blue ones, for harleys, different metrics etc.. no worries.. I'll sort it out in the long run lol

[Guest tx2sturgis]

OK it took me a while to find it.

 

Everything looks good there in that quoted article EXCEPT:

 

Dont use regular (architectural) grade RTV silicone on electrical connections. It uses acid during curing and can cause problems later on. Most ordinary off-the-shelf 'box store' silicones use acid curing...they smell like vinegar.

 

If you want to use RTV silicone, make sure to use the kind made for electronics. RTV2, RTV-162, RTV-167 etc...

 

 

http://www.altex.com/GC-Waldom-Electronic-Grade-Silicone-SealantAdhesive-3oz-Tube-19-155-P141838C10576.aspx

 

http://www.skygeek.com/rtv162-3tg.html

 

http://www.hmcelectronics.com/cgi-bin/scripts/product/4675-0025/GE-Silicones-RTV162

 

Yes it IS more expensive than the generic stuff.

 

 

Edited February 28, 2011 by tx2sturgis

[N3FOL]

I used the no load signal stabilizer for my signals and also kept my self cancelling & hazard capability.

LED clusters are the way to go for bright LEDs. FWIW, I can not comment on other load equalizers from Custom Dynamics.

[Old Texan]

Tried to follow the diagram that was linked, however this doesn't seem to be for a RSV as the wire colors don't match. Has anyone been able to use a electronic flasher on there RSV and still keep the self canceling feature? If you have how did you do it? Thanks in advance.

[Carbon_One]

Tried to follow the diagram that was linked, however this doesn't seem to be for a RSV as the wire colors don't match. Has anyone been able to use a electronic flasher on there RSV and still keep the self canceling feature? If you have how did you do it? Thanks in advance.

This is what I finally did to get mine to work --->

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=61568

Hope this helps you too

Larry

[XV1100SE]

I replaced the tail light and rear signal lights with LED's from Custom Dynamics.

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=63006

 

I put the load balancer under the seat and connected it to the brown/green wires that run to the rear signals.

 

When you put the load balancer for the rear signals in make sure you are getting the wires going to the rear and not doubling up on the front signal lights.

 

I haven't replaced the front signal lights but according to Custom Dynamics if you change the front to LED you put in a balancer on the front signals too.

 

My signals flash at the correct pace, self-cancel works properly, and my four way flashers still work.

[bkuhr]

Tried to follow the diagram that was linked, however this doesn't seem to be for a RSV as the wire colors don't match. Has anyone been able to use a electronic flasher on there RSV and still keep the self canceling feature? If you have how did you do it? Thanks in advance.

 

Yes I have. Basically I took an off the shelf autoparts flasher designed for LED, and added a relay to receive autocancel signal, removing power from the flasher. Little more involved, as I made a PCB with spade pins to plug into stock flasher connector, and had to run a spare ground wire for the added relay coil. Will try to take pics and do writeup this weekend.

[Old Texan]

Yes I have. Basically I took an off the shelf autoparts flasher designed for LED, and added a relay to receive autocancel signal, removing power from the flasher. Little more involved, as I made a PCB with spade pins to plug into stock flasher connector, and had to run a spare ground wire for the added relay coil. Will try to take pics and do writeup this weekend.

 

That would be fantastic, Thanks for the help.

 

Jim

[Old Texan]

This is what I finally did to get mine to work --->

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=61568

Hope this helps you too

Larry

 

Larry, Thank You. That made for a nice clean install and may be the way I wind up going, however first I want to try using an electronic flasher and relay and see what happens.

 

Jim

[bkuhr]

That would be fantastic, Thanks for the help.

 

Jim

I missed that this was for RSV, but should work same principle

http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=63802

[Old Texan]

In theory it should work, the problem is trying to figure out the wiring on the 5 pin flasher that's used on a RSV, the wiring diagram I have is almost useless as it doesn't show what's happening inside the various components. I guess I'll have to bite the bullet and invest in CD's stabilizer, at least you don't have to give back the amps that were saved by going to led's. Thanks for trying.