Harmonicashawn Posted February 22, 2011 Share #1 Posted February 22, 2011 (edited) I'm sure this has been questioned to death, but I would like some advise. I tend to feel that nobody beats the quality of factory parts, but..... I need a clutch for my '89 VR. suggestions---all stock / Barnett Pressure plate / stock or aftermarket frictions? Any thoughts would be appreciated. I intend to do normal driving--no serious abuse. Only slight mods (from what I can tell)--cams / jets. Pretty stock setup. What should I expect to pay? I priced a whole new stock setup -$270. Edited February 23, 2011 by Harmonicashawn Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zane Posted February 22, 2011 Share #2 Posted February 22, 2011 Earl Harrell sells a very good upgrade to the original using new friction disks with an extra to replace the half disk and weak spring plate. It is a heavier spring plate and really makes a difference in performance. It completely eliminates the slippage these bikes can have with the factory setup at a fraction of the cost. Look up Skydoc_17 in the classifieds. I think he sells the complete kit for around $80. You can get by cheaper by just adding an extra spring plate and the full friction plate. I did mine and NO MORE SLIP! Then you really realize the power potential of this machine. Of course you can go with the Barnett. But hmmmmm, $80 or $300, what to do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaryZ Posted February 22, 2011 Share #3 Posted February 22, 2011 I have Earl's modification re-using my original clutch discs and cleaned up pressure plates. My clutch was slipping above 4 - 5k rpm before the mod. The slipping was helped by my Vmax cams. I can tell you the mod works great when I'm easing down the road . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jrichard Posted February 22, 2011 Share #4 Posted February 22, 2011 Earl Harrell sells a very good upgrade to the original using new friction disks with an extra to replace the half disk and weak spring plate. It is a heavier spring plate and really makes a difference in performance. It completely eliminates the slippage these bikes can have with the factory setup at a fraction of the cost. Look up Skydoc_17 in the classifieds. I think he sells the complete kit for around $80. You can get by cheaper by just adding an extra spring plate and the full friction plate. I did mine and NO MORE SLIP! Then you really realize the power potential of this machine. Of course you can go with the Barnett. But hmmmmm, $80 or $300, what to do? EARL B the MAN!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiCarl Posted February 22, 2011 Share #5 Posted February 22, 2011 My 89 (84K miles) started to slip late last season at high rpms, hard acceleration, heavy load. I put Earl's kit in this winter and haven't had an opportunity to really get on it. I can tell you that I measured the frictions and all were in spec. You've got a few days of winter left. Pull it apart and measure your frictions. If they're in spec. you probably want to put the kit Earl sells in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snaggletooth Posted February 22, 2011 Share #6 Posted February 22, 2011 I did the upgrade to Earls (skydoc_17) kit last year. I was slipping pretty badly at high RPMS in 4th and 5th. Replacing the half disk and installing the stronger springs did the trick. I can kick it down to 3rd and go WOT and it takes off like a rocket now. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted February 23, 2011 Share #7 Posted February 23, 2011 Hey Shawn! Hope you get the clutch done before riding season, but you still have a couple of months yet! You should join us for rides this summer, don't miss Big Tom's Regional Rally in August, Rickster's Angellica ride, etc etc!! Earl does have a pretty decent setup if you want to go that way. Is the clutch slipping? Sometimes just replacing the springs with the Barnett springs helps out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dingy Posted February 23, 2011 Share #8 Posted February 23, 2011 Hey Shawn! Hope you get the clutch done before riding season, but you still have a couple of months yet! You should join us for rides this summer, don't miss Big Tom's Regional Rally in August, Rickster's Angellica ride, etc etc!! Earl does have a pretty decent setup if you want to go that way. Is the clutch slipping? Sometimes just replacing the springs with the Barnett springs helps out. His post says it is an 89, so I don't think Barnett makes springs for this bike. Only MKI's had the coil springs, they went to the disc clutch in 86. Depends on how much clutch you want. There is an upgrade a step above what Skydoc_17 is selling, but is does increase clutch lever pull. Its what I have in my 1300/VMax bike, and it does not slip. You double up on a standard clutch spring plate. Put two of them in. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiCarl Posted February 23, 2011 Share #9 Posted February 23, 2011 His post says it is an 89, so I don't think Barnett makes springs for this bike. Their kit replaces the pressure plate and goes to the coil springs. I believe it's the same kit as 2nd gen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harmonicashawn Posted February 23, 2011 Author Share #10 Posted February 23, 2011 Thanks for all the advise! Bongobob---Arcade is only 30 minutes away (we will definitely do some riding). I saw an old VR last year when I was out (I figured it must be you!). I think I'll go with the Skydoc setup--sounds like all I need. The Barnett pressure plate is a replacement for the MkII also 1200 / 1300, but the stock setup with a heavier pressure spring should be perfect (I'm not drag racing!). I did drag race my Fazer and guess what?- (the stock clutch worked great)! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted February 23, 2011 Share #11 Posted February 23, 2011 What I can't understand is why someone, when they suspect their clutch may need attention, goes for the juggler and wants to rebuild the entire system... and spend big bucks... Most clutches I've been into are not worn out. They slip because of other problems. Bad slave, dirty fluid, plugged pressure relief hole, wrong engine oil, etc. And in most cases if it actually does need help, a new set of discs and spring(s) are all they ever need. The double disc behind the keeper wire doesn't even need to be replaced. It's there for a reason, and because it's a wet clutch wears very little. A set of the larger discs, a cover gasket, and spring...maybe... will run less than a 'C' note. It's one of the easiest jobs one can do on a Venture. MY Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harmonicashawn Posted February 23, 2011 Author Share #12 Posted February 23, 2011 I hear what you're saying, but I like to plan for worst case scenario. Plus--as a mechanic you never want the dreaded "comeback" (it's bad for business). That being said---I will survey the damage once I'm in there, but I do like to have ALL the parts before "surgery"! I don't mean to seem crass, but isn't the purpose of this site to act as a sounding board for sharing information? Please keep in mind--I'm not a complete idiot. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted February 23, 2011 Share #13 Posted February 23, 2011 I don't mean to seem crass, but isn't the purpose of this site to act as a sounding board for sharing information? Please keep in mind--I'm not a complete idiot. Thanks! Didn't say you were, and the purpose of this site is to exchange information, and hopefully save folks a few bucks because of it. Let us know what you find once you get in there.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prairiehammer Posted February 23, 2011 Share #14 Posted February 23, 2011 I'm thinking like Jack, when it comes to my '90 VR with just 17,000 miles and suddenly it starts to slip when cranking it on in fifth gear. That clutch can't be worn out, something has happened. I rode it nearly 3000 miles to Florida and back through the Smokies and it never acted up once, but I get home and let it sit for a couple of weeks and then go out and it slips! Doesn't make sense for the spring and or discs to have gone bad. I'm going to check the slave, the relief orifice, something has gone wonka, but it surely isn't a nearly "new" spring or discs...is it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harmonicashawn Posted February 24, 2011 Author Share #15 Posted February 24, 2011 I don't know the history of my bike--I've had it for less than 2 years, BUT...it has 50,000 miles on it. It has V-Max Cams / carbs / and Rear (I swapped that out since). I suspect this is the original clutch that has had just enough abuse to where it is just worn out. My experience tells me that all the components tend to have just enough wear that the effect is cumulative. Not one faulty part, but several slightly worn ones. If I replace everything now--I will get another 50,000 (at least). To Prairiehammer--My first road bike was a '74 CB750 / FOUR (two tone brown)! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiCarl Posted February 24, 2011 Share #16 Posted February 24, 2011 ... My experience tells me that all the components tend to have just enough wear that the effect is cumulative. Not one faulty part, but several slightly worn ones. If I replace everything now--I will get another 50,000 (at least). To Prairiehammer--My first road bike was a '74 CB750 / FOUR (two tone brown)! The number you started with seems to be enough to cover the steels and frictions. - The steels that are in there are likely in new condition, they don't normally wear. They should only need replacement if they've been extremely heated by a lots of slipping. It doesn't sound like that has happened in your case. - I can see where you'd like to have "new" friction plates. At 50K miles, depending on how it's been ridden, they might not be new spec. I do question your assumption that OEM is always better than aftermarket. In the case of the Venture though OEM is certainaly good enough and can be had for less $$ than aftermarket. - Enough people have had their clutch problems solved with Earl's heavier replacement spring I'd suggest you do that spring rather than OEM. You might get more than 50K out of the rebuilt clutch. His kit comes with spring, gasket and one friction for $80. An OEM spring will cost you at least $50. I don't understand your reluctance to crack it open and inspect it before ordering parts. It takes about an hour to open, measure and reassemble (to keep dirt out and parts organized while the new come in). You could get in there and find the basket is beat to hell and you have to wait on another part anyhow. I'm not sure what all you had in your $270 total but at Cycle Parts Nation you could get all the steels, frictions, gasket and spring at your door for about $200. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted February 24, 2011 Share #17 Posted February 24, 2011 I don't know the history of my bike--I've had it for less than 2 years, BUT...it has 50,000 miles on it. It has V-Max Cams / carbs / and Rear (I swapped that out since). I suspect this is the original clutch that has had just enough abuse to where it is just worn out. My experience tells me that all the components tend to have just enough wear that the effect is cumulative. Not one faulty part, but several slightly worn ones. If I replace everything now--I will get another 50,000 (at least). To Prairiehammer--My first road bike was a '74 CB750 / FOUR (two tone brown)! I gotta ask one question. Forgive me if it's already been covered. What clutch symptoms are you experiencing that makes you think the clutch is worn or wearing out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harmonicashawn Posted February 25, 2011 Author Share #18 Posted February 25, 2011 The clutch slips at W.O.T. (all gears) or heavy acceleration in 4th and 5th. I suspect it was ridden hard despite this since the clutch was glazed. After a season of normal riding it worked much better, but still couldn't go W.O.T. without slipping. I use Yamalube oil so that may have helped--no idea what was in there previously. Master cylinder level is not too high and the clutch has good freeplay. It feels like a normal clutch that has just worn out (50,000 miles / unknown history / probably some abuse). My previous experience with bike clutches is mostly Ninjas and they are usually REALLY abused. I talked with Earl and he is going to hook me up with some new parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Condor Posted February 25, 2011 Share #19 Posted February 25, 2011 The clutch slips at W.O.T. (all gears) or heavy acceleration in 4th and 5th. I suspect it was ridden hard despite this since the clutch was glazed. After a season of normal riding it worked much better, but still couldn't go W.O.T. without slipping. I use Yamalube oil so that may have helped--no idea what was in there previously. Master cylinder level is not too high and the clutch has good freeplay. It feels like a normal clutch that has just worn out (50,000 miles / unknown history / probably some abuse). My previous experience with bike clutches is mostly Ninjas and they are usually REALLY abused. I talked with Earl and he is going to hook me up with some new parts. Sounds like all you'll need is some new discs and a spring.... Let us know what the old discs mic out at when you have the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bongobobny Posted February 25, 2011 Share #20 Posted February 25, 2011 Another thought, Shawn, the PO added some kind of automotive additive like STP etc, a definate no-no with a wet clutch... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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