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Carb sync results.

ken

By ken
in Watering Hole

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ken

ken

Posted
Posted

Well with a little guidance from Art I managed to sync my carbs today. Here's my results.

1) No more popping at idle or at deceleration.

2) Less gas fumes at idle.

3) Much, Much smoother accelerating and at highway speed. Before it had a vibration through the bars and the seat.

I can't say it's any quicker, maybe just alittle. All and all the carb gauges are right up there as one of the best tools I've ever brought and I was amazed how easy it was once I learned how to use the gauges.:thumbsup2:

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Guest scarylarry

Guest scarylarry

Posted
Posted
Those things are a "must have" for anyone who does even the smallest amount of wrenching on their own vehicle. My feeling is if you can change your own oil and filter, you can sync your carbs....it's just that easy IMHO.

 

Your right, I check mine every oil change 10 mins sure saves you grief when you are out on a long ride...

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Guest scarylarry

Guest scarylarry

Posted
Posted
Ok, so I gotta get a set of gauges and learn how my own self. Maybe once I get them someone local will take pity on me and teach me how.

 

Try to make one maint. day they will show you..Simple as pie and most 10 yr olds can do it..

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TearlessTom

TearlessTom

Posted
Posted

Hey I just picked my bike up yesterday. I picked it up at a good price so I didn't expect it to be perfect. I like to do my own wrenching and I have worked on my Valkyrie till it is nearly perfect (except for some minor electrical (lights) issues.)

Motor wise it runs perfectly.

 

I sync'd my carb's on it . (all 6 of them) So I am familiar with the process.

 

What I am not familiar with is the RSTD's carbs and fancy plumbing.

 

I downloaded a service manual and a owners manual but have not had time to fully read it.

 

Can you point me to where the adjustment screws and such are on these carbs.

Just glancing at them it looks like the front right is the base carb.

Is that right?

 

Any advice or photos would be appreciated.

 

I also plan on doing a complete fluid change, lube the splines and new shoes for her.

 

I ran some Seafoam through the 1st tank and little Marvel Mystery oil in the crank case. She is already running better!

 

Thanks for any advice.

Tom

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V7Goose

V7Goose

Posted
Posted

The manual is wrong - if you try to follow it, you will have it all balled up so bad it won't hardly run. See our tech library for detailed instructions.

 

But here is the short of it: There is no "base" carb on this engine. You first balance the two carbs on one side to each other, then you balance the two carbs on the other side to each other, finally you balance the left bank to the right bank.

 

The screws to balance the two carbs front/back are philips head screws that you reach from the right side of the bike (you will need a very long #2 driver to reach the screw for the left two carbs from the right side). The screw to balance the left bank with the right bank is a brass hex bolt shape with a slot in it (common screwdriver) that you will find behind the choke knob on the left side.

 

There is a lot of interplay between these screws, so do not be surprised of you have to go through the sequence a number of times before they all come together. :080402gudl_prv:

Goose

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