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Dont know if there is a write up but easiest way is remove the seat,battery and battery box.now you have access to the top of the shock. It is very obvious looking under the bottom of bike which bolts to take off.Last one I did was about 45 minutes including BS ing. Very easy job.

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I've taken several off and while taking the battery box out would be easier to access that top bolt I never have. Just reach up with a pair of long handled wrenches and go to it. No time at all and you're done. One thing you'll need to do is get the bike up as far as possible on the jacks or one of my lift adapters with legs. It's then easier getting under the bike to do the job. Also it helps to have a regular floor type jack to put under the rear wheel. You raise or lower the jack as needed to be able to slide out the bolts once the nuts are off.

When putting the nuts back on you should put a drop of thread locker on the bolts. Even thou the nuts are self locking types they do lose their grip some after being on/off a couple times. It's just extra insurance to do so to keep Murphy away..

Larry

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Thanks for the info as well, Larry.. I have one of your lift adapters and I also have to swap out my rear shock AGAIN this year.. sigh.. that new one under warranty didn't last long but luckily I managed to get a new Works shock coming in this fall and will be changing it out..

 

Cheers M8

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I've taken several off and while taking the battery box out would be easier to access that top bolt I never have. Just reach up with a pair of long handled wrenches and go to it. No time at all and you're done. One thing you'll need to do is get the bike up as far as possible on the jacks or one of my lift adapters with legs. It's then easier getting under the bike to do the job. Also it helps to have a regular floor type jack to put under the rear wheel. You raise or lower the jack as needed to be able to slide out the bolts once the nuts are off.

When putting the nuts back on you should put a drop of thread locker on the bolts. Even thou the nuts are self locking types they do lose their grip some after being on/off a couple times. It's just extra insurance to do so to keep Murphy away..

Larry

 

I found that if you take the plastic cover off next to the battery side cover's and behind the passenger floor board, you can get at the top nut with a socket and extention., the rest is like Larry has said.

 

Ian

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Guest tx2sturgis

After the bike is on the lift, take off the seat and both side covers. Use a wobble extension to get at the top nut from the right side of the bike, under the battery. You dont have to actually put a wrench on the left side bolt head on the top bolt, its held in by a 'capture' fitting. But you will need 2 wrenches on the bottom bolt.

 

When the bike is on the lift, have some blocks of wood or bricks handy to place under the rear tire, so that you can let the lift down slightly and relieve the weight on the shock to more easily get the bolts in AND out of the mounting brackets.

 

Also you have to remove the air valve fitting, by taking off the large nut that holds it in place.You will also need to unhook the vent hose from up near the top of the battery. Its on the right side and is curled downward. It has to be unhooked before you drop the shock out.

 

 

 

Hope this helps.

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Dont know if there is a write up but easiest way is remove the seat,battery and battery box.now you have access to the top of the shock. It is very obvious looking under the bottom of bike which bolts to take off.Last one I did was about 45 minutes including BS ing. Very easy job.
Followed your instructions and took right side cover off was done in less than an hour It was my 1st time.Thanks:fatsmiley:
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