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passing Lamp Installs


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OK can a rookie do this I've read the fourms and got everything I need relay, aux fuse box heavy duty switch. I'm just asking before I take this on while my machine is laid up this week.

 

QUESTIONS I HAVE:

1- Getting power from the battery to the relay, does the gas tank have to come off?

2- Relay and in-line fuse should it be somewhere other than inside the fairing

3- Swap out the headlight bulb for something different

4- how hard is it getting that fairing off

 

I know I'll have more questions and your the ones to ask, Thanks for your imput and your help. Oh I have a 2008 RSV you may need to know that.

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Being a somewhat rookie here too, I can give my thoughts on how I added a relay to my passing lights.

 

OK can a rookie do this I've read the fourms and got everything I need relay, aux fuse box heavy duty switch. I'm just asking before I take this on while my machine is laid up this week.

 

QUESTIONS I HAVE:

1- Getting power from the battery to the relay, does the gas tank have to come off?

I didn't take the tank off, I used a straightened coat hanger, inserted from the front toward the battery, to fish the 14ga wire under the tank.

2- Relay and in-line fuse should it be somewhere other than inside the fairing

In my thinking, the inline fuse should be as close to the battery as possible.(Don't want un-fused wire under the GASOLINE tank!!! :yikes:) So I tucked the inline fuse next to the battery.The relay I did put inside the fairing.

3- Swap out the headlight bulb for something different

Put in a Silver Star Ultra 9003

4- how hard is it getting that fairing off

Not hard at all, just be careful of the tabs and clips on the chrome thingy between the fairing and the windshield.

I know I'll have more questions and your the ones to ask, Thanks for your imput and your help. Oh I have a 2008 RSV you may need to know that.

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1. Some fish a wire under the tank and pull it up. It is not hard to remove the tank (shut off fuel, disconnect fuel line, remove bolts and lift up), it is easier if there is little fuel in it.

2. Put it under the fairing. I secure mine to the bolt on the amplifier. Put the fuse near the battery.

3. If you want, I use Sylvania's bright bulb.

4. Not hard at all (remove windshield and six machine screws on rider side of fairing and pull off). You will need to put the fairing on before the pass lights to close it up.

 

:farmer:

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I have the factory set up Yamaha mount w/ seal beams for the RSV. I may change the seal beams over to amber is all. Other than that it's all stock with the execption of the mount bar spacer to move them out away from the fairing. Any help is great Thanks

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If you take the tank off, which is easy, you will find two covered channels to run the wire through. Pick one. The one on the right usually has more space but either is ok. Four screws will remove the cover and running the wire is easy. When completed this makes for a very professional installation.

Mike

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Not sure I think they may be to big to go there, something like the Silver Bullets would fit. I"m going stock mounting bar and lights. I might start this weekend when I get enough nerve to take that fairing apart. Been scratchin my head looking at the wiring and I think I figured that out.

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Rick,

I have done several driving light installs on the G2's. Do it right and run a wire under the tank, pull the tank also as you want all the room you can get to see where to run the wire. I personally have added an aux fuse block to all the ones I have done as it's easier to have another separate fuse system to install accy. Run a good gauge wire from the fuse/battery 10 or 12 gauge to the relay. Get a good switch, atleast 20 amps, dont use that piece of crap one that comes with the kit, it's too small and I just replaced Gunboats on his lights as the small wires couldn't handle the load of being fed directly from the battery. You will notice a lot brighter light if you do this and the lights wont be hooked into your ignition :2cents:

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DAY1 - Installed RK mufflers, aux fuse block, and ran wires for the passing lamps. Taking the fairing and tank off was a peice of cake. I ran two wires, one for future projects. I would have had it all done but the passing lamp/mount assembly took me some time. Also it is a pain in the butt putting those little black rubber covers back on the front of the tank.

Day 2 - Finishing it all up, where do you ground the relay under the fairing? and I have a heavier switch that I need to find a place for. Thanks for everyones imput it was as easy as everyone said. The only real problem was when i unpacked the seal beams one was broke, but I'll swap it out on Monday.

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Squidley,

 

You said it will not be hooked to the ignition, Would you tell me how you wire it to the relay and switch? If I understand you correctly nothing goes to the ignition. Some say to hook to the llghter plug. Do you have to turn the lights on and off manually each time. I have to put in a relay in and always thought of by passing ignition switch. Just hope to remember to shut off the lights. If wired the way I understand you, when you shut off the bike the lights will still be on until you turn off the passing light switch. Thanks for the help.

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Squidley,

 

You said it will not be hooked to the ignition, Would you tell me how you wire it to the relay and switch? If I understand you correctly nothing goes to the ignition. Some say to hook to the llghter plug. Do you have to turn the lights on and off manually each time. I have to put in a relay in and always thought of by passing ignition switch. Just hope to remember to shut off the lights. If wired the way I understand you, when you shut off the bike the lights will still be on until you turn off the passing light switch. Thanks for the help.

 

What he was saying is the LOAD of the passing lights will not go through the ignition switch. That load will go through the relay. Only the relay control circuit load will go through the ignition switch. The relay control coil draws MUCH less amperage than the passing light bulbs. I personally would not tap the "lighter" plug, as it is powered, at least on my RSV, in the ACC position as well as the RUN position. Where I chose to get the control voltage is from the power supply wire to the dimmer switch. (In fact I even put a relay in the headlight circuit, so now even the headlight LOAD does not go through the ignition switch. But That may cloud your issue.) The dimmer switch is only powered when the ignition switch is in the RUN position. Thus I can play the radio, :680: in the ACC position, without any lights being on, as they would be if the control power was picked up from the "lighter" plug wire.

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Got them done with imput form Sylvester, MikeWA and Wes0778 Thanks guys. I can even get the fairing off without removing my passing lamps. I have the spacer but couldn't figure out how to get the wires up in the fairing with it on. Just have a couple of pointers well rookie mistakes. When checking the lights make sure you have a fuse in after rewiring the light bulb went off, and it's important to get the right turn signals on the side they belong other than that it was a piece of cake. Now hopefully eveything works after the first bump............:smile5:

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