StarRider07 Posted March 12, 2010 Share #1 Posted March 12, 2010 I am confused, baffled, disappointed and so on and so on. Got my gauges installed and must admit, they look awesome. I was sooooooo careful with all the wires, the oil line and the temperature cable. No kinks, or sharp bends. Routed everything like a pro, well, at least in my mind. Everything hooked up, gas tank back on, fired her up. Lights come on, volt meter works and that's it. Temp gauge doesn't register anything. Oil gauge,,,,,,,,,,,nothing. Although I used the black tubing from Ponch to cover the oil pressure line, I can see that oil has started up the line however I can not see how far. I do know that it hasn't reached the gauge. Is it supposed to? Just turning the ignition on for power, not started, the oil gauge goes to just over 20 and that is where it stays when running the bike. WTF????? I was so careful. The only thing I did different is that I used the Equus 1.5" gauges. I think they look better and they match the speedo better than the white face gauges. I do want to say that Ponch's instructions are fantastic. There is no way in hell I would have been able to do this without them. THANKS PONCH! HELP!!!!!! Any idea what I could have done wrong? Wouldn't surprise me if it was somthing obvious. Go ahead guys/gals,,,,bombard me with your wisdoms. I will get all your replies on my blackberry so fill me with a pile of stuff to check when I get home Friday. I WANT TO RIDE! Do I sound desperate enough. Greg. (AKA Thor) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slick97spirit Posted March 12, 2010 Share #2 Posted March 12, 2010 StarRider, I'm responding to your post to bump it back up. I think the post was overlooked. I definately don't have enough experience to be able to offer advice. My gauges worked really well but I used the sun pro and yes the oil fills the line all the way to the gauge. At least mine does anyway. Hope you get this worked out, because it is a big job. I'm sure ponch or someone will chime in soon to help. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mabeline Posted March 12, 2010 Share #3 Posted March 12, 2010 StarRider I also used the Eguus gauges. It took a good 5 to 7 minutes in the garage at a hi idle before the temp gauge started working. The motor was getting quite warm to the touch, and I was thinking ah man I kinked the tube. It seemed like one second it wasn't working and the next it was about 1/3 of the way up. Conrad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ablumny Posted March 12, 2010 Share #4 Posted March 12, 2010 Agree, it takes a while before the water temp gauge starts to register. If you've waited long enough, sounds like somethings wrong. As far as the oil pressure gauge, I had the same prob, the oil line wasnt filling and the gauge wasnt working. I pulled the line from the gauge, ran the bike until the oil line filled, then quickly re connected it and the gauge worked fine afterwards. Kinda like bleeding the line I guess. Im told later on that that wasnt necessary, but it seemed to work. Good luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freebird Posted March 12, 2010 Share #5 Posted March 12, 2010 I agree about the temp gauge. The bike has to run a good while before it will start reading. I don't remember my oil gauge taking any time but you might want to take it for a good ride before you start taking things apart. See if it starts working. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilvrT Posted March 12, 2010 Share #6 Posted March 12, 2010 Almost sounds like a faulty oil gauge. It shouldn't read anything until there is oil pressure. As for the temp gauge, what's been said is correct...it takes a while. I thought mine was on the fritz too ... they seem as if they "stick" if not used for a while. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarRider07 Posted March 12, 2010 Author Share #7 Posted March 12, 2010 Thank you to everyone that has replied so far. What a great bunch of people here. I thought I had let the bike run long enough. Five minutes or so. I was wondering about the temp sensor. Seems that with the adapters in, it sits pretty high and wondering if it is far enough to be sitting in the coolant. Or maybe it doesn't really have to as long as it is getting hot. I put the sensor in the back left head using the inside plug. There is an identical plug on the outside of the spark plug however the instructions and photo appears to be the inside one. I am at work right now so will look forward to more replies. When I get home I will let it run for at least 10 minutes. Once it gets hot, I will continue to rev it up a few times. I get I am comparing it to my ScanGauge in the car. I start to see the temp rise within seconds of starting the car. Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SilvrT Posted March 12, 2010 Share #8 Posted March 12, 2010 I get I am comparing it to my ScanGauge in the car. I start to see the temp rise within seconds of starting the car. Greg I'm guessing you have the "non-electrical" type of water temp gauge in the bike whereas in your car it is probably an electrical sensor which would explain why it starts showing a temp change quicker. Yes, let your bike run for 10 or more minutes...it won't hurt it. The fan will come on when it gets hot enuf. If you followed the instructions for installing the temp sensor, it should be into the coolant sufficiently and yes, it does go into the inside plug hole. I may be wrong on this but these temp gauges are operated by transmitting the temp of the coolant up a tube to the gauge. The gauge then calcs the temp based on what it is "at the gauge" rather than at the sensor (so to speak). So, that being the case, it can take longer for the gauge end of the tube to heat up sufficiently to cause the gauge to change. (that makes logical sense to me .... dunno if it's correct or not) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickardracing Posted March 13, 2010 Share #9 Posted March 13, 2010 I have the Equus gauges. Not hooked up yet. I would "assume" it would take longer for a bike to come up to operating temp than a car motor. Cooling fins on the cylinders, aluminum block and all. As far as the oil, crack the fitting loose at the gauge and bleed the line. It probably is just air locked. Check out my install pics under the heading My guage and tack install. I am hookingmine up this weekend! Randy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted March 13, 2010 Share #10 Posted March 13, 2010 My sunpros seemed to work fine and the oil never got to the end of the line ever. I am now hooking up the Equus but looking at the inside of the sunpro I am not sure you want the oil to reach ALL the way to the other end. I don't think they work like that. to me it looks as if it did that there would be OIL all over the inside of the fairing. thought there were for pressure. So should we all be bleeding these then and how are you bleeding the line, Just cranking the engine over with the switch off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarRider07 Posted March 13, 2010 Author Share #11 Posted March 13, 2010 Again, thank you for all your support. This time I let the bike go for 20 min. And after it warmed up, I kept the rev up between 2500 and 3000. The needle started to raise. YEAH! However, I think the oil gauge is defective. Even with the bike off, the needle stays at 20. Now for the life of me, I don't remember if the needle was like that when new or not. I check other new one in the box and the needle was at zero. Now, if it went to 20 after starting the bike, then it stuck there. Guess I will have to get that one replaced. First, I might try to bleed the line but if it is sticking at 20 then there is probably no point in doing that. Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monty Posted March 13, 2010 Share #12 Posted March 13, 2010 Oil gauge sounds bad. Mine sits at zero with the bike off. When I first installed it, it climbed just as soon as the bike started...no delay. If it's working right, it will drop to zero as soon as you turn off the key. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarRider07 Posted March 13, 2010 Author Share #13 Posted March 13, 2010 Oil gauge sounds bad. Mine sits at zero with the bike off. When I first installed it, it climbed just as soon as the bike started...no delay. If it's working right, it will drop to zero as soon as you turn off the key. Hi Monty. I have seen oil gauges work in cars and yes, the needle drops to zero when turned off. Do you have the Equus gauges? Does the oil reach the gauge? Thanks Greg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarRider07 Posted March 13, 2010 Author Share #14 Posted March 13, 2010 Oil gauge sounds bad. Mine sits at zero with the bike off. When I first installed it, it climbed just as soon as the bike started...no delay. If it's working right, it will drop to zero as soon as you turn off the key. By the way,,,,, nice banner. Like that. Now make me one " THOR " Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarRider07 Posted March 13, 2010 Author Share #15 Posted March 13, 2010 My sunpros seemed to work fine and the oil never got to the end of the line ever. I am now hooking up the Equus but looking at the inside of the sunpro I am not sure you want the oil to reach ALL the way to the other end. I don't think they work like that. to me it looks as if it did that there would be OIL all over the inside of the fairing. thought there were for pressure. So should we all be bleeding these then and how are you bleeding the line, Just cranking the engine over with the switch off? You know, I always wondered that myself. If the oil gets to the gauge, will it leak out? Lets face it, when first installed, there will be air in the line. For the oil to get to the gauge the air has to escape and if the air can escape, wouldn't the oil? Something I always wondered about. Anyway, because my needle is stuck at 20, I guess it is safe to assume the gauge is defective. However, the question still stands................is the oil supposed to make it all the way to the gauge? Oh, and one more question while thinking about it. Do you or anyone out there know what the heck the oil pressure should be on our RSV's? Or is there just to let you know that there is some pressure? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scarylarry Posted March 13, 2010 Share #16 Posted March 13, 2010 Oil has to go to the gauge for it to work, or there would be no way of checking it. I read many post here that at a idle about 5 to 10lbs. If you think air has done this take it a loose and see if it bleeds itself off, I never put a set on cycle but on a car I can't remember putting a bad set in..I know one car had it been a bad gauge I would have burn the car it was PITA to install.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlh3rd Posted March 13, 2010 Share #17 Posted March 13, 2010 on my bike :.....oil pressure runs to 60 at startup........stays around 38-40 at normal temp, in 5th gear at 65 mph indicated...it will go to 50psi -60 if i shift to 4th and hit the throttle...........at idle,around 5psi Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monty Posted March 13, 2010 Share #18 Posted March 13, 2010 Mine are Sunpros. I didn't look while it was apart, but I doubt the oil went all the way up. How about something like this? If so, let me know, and I'll finish it. http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i274/13thAFMonterey/thor2.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarRider07 Posted March 13, 2010 Author Share #19 Posted March 13, 2010 How about something like this? If so, let me know, and I'll finish it. http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i274/13thAFMonterey/thor2.jpg Hi Monty. Thanks so much for your support. You asked me "how about something like this?" Like what? HAHAHA. Reminds me of myself. Sending an email and forgetting to do the attachment. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarRider07 Posted March 13, 2010 Author Share #20 Posted March 13, 2010 To all that replied, A very huge THANK YOU. I must have the worse luck in the world. All the people that have talked about their gauges all seemed to have no problems. Me, I get a defective oil gauge. On a good note, seems like I did it all with no leaks whats so ever. In fact I did such a good job that the pressure won't even leak into the gauge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted March 13, 2010 Share #21 Posted March 13, 2010 Greg, If you call or email them at iEquus I bet they will send you a new one at no charge, there customer support is great, I was working with them last month. Here is there info. www.iEquus.co OR service@iEquus.com There phone number is 1-800-544-4124 or 714-241-6805 Fountian Valley, CA. good luck! Jeff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monty Posted March 13, 2010 Share #22 Posted March 13, 2010 You can't see the "THOR" banner above? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest scarylarry Posted March 14, 2010 Share #23 Posted March 14, 2010 I talk with one of Mech. at work and he said very well could be air, that most gauges as a air bleeder on them, but he didn't know about this gauge...You can try to bleed the air off if you can.. Maybe someone else can chim in it.. This post was driving me nuts for a answer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted March 14, 2010 Share #24 Posted March 14, 2010 I should have an answer from iEquus tomorrow. I emailed them about it yesterday. I will post there reply when I get it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StarRider07 Posted March 14, 2010 Author Share #25 Posted March 14, 2010 Thanks Cougar. I am going to take the line off at the gauge today and will bleed it out. I will let you know. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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