piper Posted July 14, 2009 Share #1 Posted July 14, 2009 (edited) Yesterday I bushed my 05 RSTD in and out from my driveway and it felt hard. The bike is stiffer rolling wise. Today after my ride doing 45km yesterday it was harder to do the same thing so I parked it and had taken my ladies bike to were I had to go (my mums) I have just now jacked up the bike thinking it mite be the bearings in the wheels but they are rolling ok the but brakes are scrapping. But now it is raining.:250:And yesterday too Has some one have a thought from there it may be coming from. Or am I just getting weaker in my legs Edited July 14, 2009 by piper add a word Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuddyRich Posted July 14, 2009 Share #2 Posted July 14, 2009 Na, Its an age thing, The bikes get heavier the older you get... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BuddyRich Posted July 14, 2009 Share #3 Posted July 14, 2009 If the brakes are actually dragging you need to pull the calipers to see why. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piper Posted July 14, 2009 Author Share #4 Posted July 14, 2009 Na, Its an age thing, The bikes get heavier the older you get... **** I hope not Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest tx2sturgis Posted July 14, 2009 Share #5 Posted July 14, 2009 Its normal for the brakes to make a slight dragging sound...its just the pads touching the rotors. Check the air pressure in the tires...even 10 pounds low can make a huge difference in rolling resistance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piper Posted July 14, 2009 Author Share #6 Posted July 14, 2009 If the brakes are actually dragging you need to pull the calipers to see why. yes first i am taking the back wheel off and look in side (look for scraping) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piper Posted July 14, 2009 Author Share #7 Posted July 14, 2009 Its normal for the brakes to make a slight dragging sound...its just the pads touching the rotors. Check the air pressure in the tires...even 10 pounds low can make a huge difference in rolling resistance. Did not think of ith tyers thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piper Posted July 14, 2009 Author Share #8 Posted July 14, 2009 Thanks I am working on my bike as we are talking Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saddlebum Posted July 14, 2009 Share #9 Posted July 14, 2009 pulling the callipers off is easy. Once off just push the pistons back and see how hard it is to do so. its possible the pistons are binding and not retracting as far as they should when the brakes are applied and released. You may need to consider flushing your brake fluid with some new stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piper Posted July 14, 2009 Author Share #10 Posted July 14, 2009 pulling the callipers off is easy. Once off just push the pistons back and see how hard it is to do so. its possible the pistons are binding and not retracting as far as they should when the brakes are applied and released. You may need to consider flushing your brake fluid with some new stuff. yes iI have thort of that I think you are right it was done at 24000km and now at 65000km the manual says I should do it but the colour of the oil on the handel bars is still light blue so I think it is good oil I mite be rong Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saddlebum Posted July 14, 2009 Share #11 Posted July 14, 2009 yes iI have thort of that I think you are right it was done at 24000km and now at 65000km the manual says I should do it but the colour of the oil on the handel bars is still light blue so I think it is good oil I mite be rong BLUE ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piper Posted July 14, 2009 Author Share #12 Posted July 14, 2009 yes blue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piper Posted July 14, 2009 Author Share #13 Posted July 14, 2009 But I think I have found somthing when i regreased the rear gear at 62500km with MOLY 60 after now at 2800km latter there is dried build up of dry brown chalk with my thinking it is corssing a friction to make it hard to push when cold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piper Posted July 14, 2009 Author Share #14 Posted July 14, 2009 (edited) Hear is whot I found I cannot seem to add the photos I am placing a new post photos on next page Edited July 14, 2009 by piper Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saddlebum Posted July 14, 2009 Share #15 Posted July 14, 2009 yes blue It may be a product I am not familiar with but in 40 years I have never seen blue brake fluid. Its usually relatively clear or light amber. JUst to be safe I would want to make sure it is brake fluid. If it is something with a petrolium base to it it will swell the rubbers and you would definitly have binding brakes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flb_78 Posted July 14, 2009 Share #16 Posted July 14, 2009 Are you trying to push in neutral or with the clutch pulled in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RandyR Posted July 14, 2009 Share #17 Posted July 14, 2009 ATE® Super Blue (DOT 4) has a dry boiling point of 536F and a wet boiling point of 396F. ATE Super Blue is identical in specification to the ATE TYP 200 brake fluid. ATE Super Blue is compatible and will mix with most DOT3, DOT4, or DOT 5.1 Fluids. This top-of-the-line product lies 20 °C over the DOT 5.1 standard and surpasses this standard in nearly all the other requirements as well. This means that cars can go without a brake fluid change for up to 3 years while products with a lower wet boiling point have to be replaced considerably more often (e.g. DOT 3 products should be replaced annually). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piper Posted July 14, 2009 Author Share #18 Posted July 14, 2009 Here is what I found after 2500km using Moly 60 I don’t know if I will use it again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedRider Posted July 14, 2009 Share #19 Posted July 14, 2009 Holy Moly! I've been using Moly60 for a few years and have never seen that. You ought to check you pins too. Have you been fording creeks? RR Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RandyR Posted July 14, 2009 Share #20 Posted July 14, 2009 something is wrong here. Too many people on too many makes of shaft drive bikes are using lots of moly60. (said while I have my yet unopened first tube of moly60 waiting to lube my rear diff when I change my first tire) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saddlebum Posted July 15, 2009 Share #21 Posted July 15, 2009 ATE® Super Blue (DOT 4) has a dry boiling point of 536F and a wet boiling point of 396F. ATE Super Blue is identical in specification to the ATE TYP 200 brake fluid. ATE Super Blue is compatible and will mix with most DOT3, DOT4, or DOT 5.1 Fluids. This top-of-the-line product lies 20 °C over the DOT 5.1 standard and surpasses this standard in nearly all the other requirements as well. This means that cars can go without a brake fluid change for up to 3 years while products with a lower wet boiling point have to be replaced considerably more often (e.g. DOT 3 products should be replaced annually). goes to show you no matter what you think you know there is always something new to learn:thumbsup2: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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