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You'll more than likely get many responces, here is mine.... Dont waste your money on a Silverstar, I had one and wasn't impressed very much. It's slightly (read very little) better than stock. My choice would be to get a PIAA Xenon bulb, and not a blue coated bulb. The Xenon gas makes it burn brighter and thats what will be going in my '08 in the near future...hope this helps some.

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I agree with Squidley...The PIAA Xenon bulb probably the best choice but the cost is up there. I have never used one but I have heard about some logivity issues from some of the guys I ride with. Maybe it was a one off...you can get a bad one of any brand I guess... or maybe vibration from the bike itself that caused it.

I have noticed those Harleys nervously shaking while waiting for the red light next to my Venture. :witch_brew:

I replaced my bulb with a Silverstar ULTRA. These are a little brighter than the regular Silverstar bulbs. It cost me about $24 but the Silverstar ULTRA's were kinda hard for me to find. They are in the Orange-Brown package. I could definitely tell the difference in how well I see at night compaired to the stock bulb. It also seems it gave me more side road coverage.

I put a new set of Siverstars in my VW Jetta Diesel and what a difference that made for me...but it had the stock bulbs that had been there since 02..

Keep in mind all bulbs degrade a little as they age, especially these new high performance bulbs. This is mostly due to deposits collecting on the inside of the bulb.

I would recomend you stay with the same wattage of the orginal bulb to keep from loading up your charging system.

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Something to think about? Read the "Notice To Consumer" BOLD at the bottom. This is from the PIAA Corporation, USA

This is just for people who would never do anything illegal.:no-no-no:

As for me well....:whistling:

 

 

Ampere

(A or Amp)

The unit of measure for electrical current. Basic formula for finding Amp draw (Amps = watts ÷ volts)

Candela

A unit of measurement for the luminous intensity of a lamp at a specific spot in the beam. Dichroic A glass reflector and bulb assembly that allows heat to dissipate through the reflector and away from the bulb thus increasing bulb life.

Dual Filament Bulb

A bulb having two filaments encased in one glass tube. In the case of halogen headlight bulbs with dual filaments, one filament for the low beam and one filament for the high beam. The most common dual filament halogen headlight bulbs are H4, HB2, 9007, and 9004.

Dual Lamp System

A PIAA innovation that places two types of auxiliary light systems into one housing, usually a driving light and a fog light.

High Intensity Discharge

A light source in which light is produced by a stabilized arc that burns at a much higher color temperature which creates a whiter light output than a standard halogen bulb. This arc is generated with an igniting system and ballast.

Kelvin

Color temperature is a unit of measure for the color of light – it is not necessarily related to the heat of the light source. A higher color temperature represents a color closer to actual sunlight.

Lens Fluting

A process in lamp design that molds the lens to control the beam pattern by deflecting the light to the desired point in the beam. Lens fluting usually looks like vertical cuts in the lens.

Lumens

A unit of measurement for the amount of light that a bulb puts out. Example: common light bulbs emit approximately 170 candela per 10 watts of electricity.

Multi Surface Reflector

MSR, A reflector designed to control the beam pattern with a computer designed surface to project the light precisely to the desired point in the beam without the use of fluting.

NHTSA, D.O.T.

National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, Department of Transportation. Sets the laws and guidelines for the preservation of safety on public highways.

Projector Lens

An ellipse shaped lens that concentrates a beam of light coming from a set back bulb and reflector. The beam is usually controlled with a shield to give the beam a very sharp cut off point. This makes a great fog light or headlight low beam.

S.A.E.

Society of Automotive Engineers. Publishes the recommended practices, design specifications and testing procedures for all automotive systems.

Xenon

The gas used in H.I.D. systems that produce the extreme white color. Xenon gas is also used in some halogen bulbs to produce a whiter light and to keep deposits off the glass tube.

XTRA

A PIAA term used to designate high efficiency bulbs that are designed to produce greater light output than its rated power consumption. (Example 55watts = 85watts of light output) http://www.piaa.com/images/spacer.gifNOTICE TO CONSUMER http://www.piaa.com/images/fade-right.gif

PIAA lamps are intended for use solely as auxiliary lighting. PIAA lamps are not intended to be used for headlight purposes, nor are they certified for headlight usage. Auxiliary lighting laws vary from state to state. PIAA makes no representation or warranty, either expressed or implied, as to the legality of its products for street use on any vehicle or in any location. PIAA lamps are designed to improve visibility during night time motoring and inclement weather conditions. However, irresponsible use of any auxiliary light can be dangerous and illegal. http://www.piaa.com/images/rule.gif

PIAA CORPORATION USA

CORPORATION | CUSTOMER SERVICE | STAY INFORMED | WHAT'S NEW | DEALER SEARCH | FAQ'S | GLOSSARY | WHY BUY PIAA | CARE & MAINTENANCE | PROTECT YOUR INVESTMENT | PIAA WARRANTY

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LAMPS | BULBS | HIGH INTENSITY LEDS | WIPER BLADES | WHEELS | POWERSPORTS | RACING PRODUCTS

 

Copyright © 2003 PIAA Corporation, USA. All Rights Reserved.

PIAA Corporation, USA, 15370 SW Millikan Way, Beaverton, OR 97006

Telephone: 503.643.7422 - Fax: 503.643.9144

piaa.com designed and maintained by soupbone, Inc. [www.soupbone.com]

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Just like Squidly said, you will get different opinions. However, I don NOT agree with him on the Silverstar bulbs. These are great lights, but you must get the SilverStar ULTRA for extra life in our application. I have used these in two RSVs, plus my brother's RSV, and numerous personal friends in the local area with RSVs are running them. I think the extra light output is close to phenomenal; the color is very white - so much so that the stock passing lights are quite noticeably yellow when either looking at them directly or comparing all three light spots on my garage door. To add one more piece of evidence, I first tried the SilverStars after Motorcycle Consumer News did a test on them. That magazine takes no advertising so they can say whatever they want without any fear of outside pressure (similar to Consumer Reports). I have found that MCN reporting is of such high quality I no longer read ANY other bike magazines. I respect them a lot, and I found that I personally agreed 100% with their report on the SilverStars. They have a terrible web site, but you may still be able to find that report on-line at http://www.mcnews.com. Hope you find something you like.

Goose

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i'm sorry i dont remember the brand but on motorweek tv this last month in the garage section they were talking about bulbs (phillips or sylvania i think) and mentioned a new one for cycles that threw more light forward and also to the right side of the road...sounds like something to check for in your parts store...hope this is helpful

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I'm a RSV 2007 and I would like to replace my original headlamp by a more efficient headlight. Please give me your suggestion of replacement.

 

Louis

Quebec, Canada

 

visit your local Napa store and, in the headlight bulb area look for an H4 bulb stock number BP1210/H4. Rated at 80 watts on low beam and 100 on high

 

The bulb is sold by Wagner.

 

Do NOT do this if you have a light bar connected to your headlight circuit.

The additional amperage may be too great for your stock fuse and you could lose all your front lighting at some point.

 

Before adding the higher powered bulb make sure your extra lighting (light bar, driving lights, spots, fog, etc. ) added has its own circuit. After all you don't need to blow a fuse and lose all four front lighting!

 

 

Driving/extra lighting wiring.

 

http://www.gadgetjq.com/drivinglight_wiring_diagram.gif

 

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  • 2 years later...

Anybody got an easy way to figure out how your lightbar is wired? I just bought mine and it has a light bar on it. I just put the Wagner 1210 bulb in. Thats why my right hand looks like its been in a fight with one of my cats. But anyways only easy thing I could think of was to pull the fuse out of the fuse box, slave ina fuse and a volt/amp meter and see what it draws. Anybody else, without pulling the fairing apart?

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Ok so I was board today. I opened up the fuse box and checked things out. I pulled the headlight fuse (15a) and made a jumper type wire deal so I could plug it into the fuse box, then plug the fuse in and then run it thru the multi-meter. With headlight on no aux lights was like 8.9amps, auxs and headlight on 9 something, I dont remember all teh draws now other than with high beam on and aux lights on I was under 12a. I want to say it was like 10.9. So I think I'm OK. Now weather or not the aux lamps are wired thru a relay I have no idea because I cant see that far up in the fairing. But when I split it I'll look. Geeze I hope so, because as far as I know this was a dealer installed option at time of sale for PO.

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So far I love my HID from Canadian Cruiser Custom. Some have had issues with them, but for me,so far (knock wood-knock wood) mine has performed flawlessly. I do have switch on it, but have never had to use it because the light went out when I hit the starter.

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Now weather or not the aux lamps are wired thru a relay I have no idea because I cant see that far up in the fairing. But when I split it I'll look. Geeze I hope so, because as far as I know this was a dealer installed option at time of sale for PO.

 

I would bet not,:( 'cause it seems the stealers don't do relays!!! :stirthepot::stirthepot::stirthepot:

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Well yea I can see that too. If its not on a relay, I'll fix that when I split the fairing doing my "wish list" I'm working on. It seems its growing. I guess if I am going to wire in a relay I might just as well fish a dedicated power wire under the tank huuh?

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I might just as well fish a dedicated power wire under the tank huuh?

 

Yep!!!:stickinouttounge:

 

Oh, AND be sure to put a fuse next to the battery! Don't wanna be letting any of that magic smoke out of the wires under 6 gallons of gasoline!!!:shock3::shock3::shock3:

 

Fuse next to battery:thumbsup: I also ran the 12ga. wire thru 1/4 nylon tubing to the light relay and GPS power up front.

Fred

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  • 2 months later...

Sylvania Silverstar Ultra is available at just about any Walmart. They're spld in 2 packs for about $48.

 

I hear a lot of good things about PIAA, but I have yet to find a retailer that has them in stock, and Internet ordering is always a last resort for me. I like to know that I can just scoot over to Wally's and get what I want.

 

As far as longevity issues regarding the Silverstar Ultra, it lists plainly on the package that their life is 1/4 the life of a standard H4 bulb.

 

:bluesbrother:

 

 

I agree with Squidley...The PIAA Xenon bulb probably the best choice but the cost is up there. I have never used one but I have heard about some logivity issues from some of the guys I ride with. Maybe it was a one off...you can get a bad one of any brand I guess... or maybe vibration from the bike itself that caused it.

I have noticed those Harleys nervously shaking while waiting for the red light next to my Venture. :witch_brew:

 

I replaced my bulb with a Silverstar ULTRA. These are a little brighter than the regular Silverstar bulbs. It cost me about $24 but the Silverstar ULTRA's were kinda hard for me to find. They are in the Orange-Brown package. I could definitely tell the difference in how well I see at night compaired to the stock bulb. It also seems it gave me more side road coverage.

I put a new set of Siverstars in my VW Jetta Diesel and what a difference that made for me...but it had the stock bulbs that had been there since 02..

Keep in mind all bulbs degrade a little as they age, especially these new high performance bulbs. This is mostly due to deposits collecting on the inside of the bulb.

I would recomend you stay with the same wattage of the orginal bulb to keep from loading up your charging system.

 

 

 

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