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Showing results for tags 'grip'.
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Note: This post is kinda long, but not too technical(except for the very end). There has been a lot of discussion in the past about the amount of reserve electrical capacity on an RSV for accessories, although most of the detailed facts were BC and no longer available for review. Some folks have glibly stated that the RSV has "lots" of extra electrical power available (with which I completely DISagree). So I thought I would publish some real world observations without a lot of stats to interpret. My 2005 QuickSilver has quite a few added lights, but with the exception of 4 small 3 watt instrument bulbs, all of them are LEDs, so they do not significantly increase the total load. My Driving lights are stock Yamaha accessories with original bulbs. I have both an ammeter (which allows me to see absolute proof if current is going in-to or out-of the battery at any moment, and a digital volt meter that reads to the tenth of a volt. I also have a tach. Most of you know that these bikes have four individual carb heaters, 15 watts each, for a total of 60 watts, which is a significant load. I don't know the trigger temp for the heaters, but it seems to be around the low 60s. The thermal switch is under the rear battery covers, so engine heat causes them to be shut off after warm-up unless the temp is quite a bit lower. When trying to figure out how much extra load you can add to an RSV, you need to factor in this 60 watt load if you are going to be riding in any cool or cold weather. Obviously important if you are going to use heated clothing! To recap, the electrical load on my bike is almost stock. I am experimenting with a set of grip heaters that pull about 2 amps/25 watts. I know they are not malfunctioning because they are wired through a 3 amp fuse which has not blown. Today, the temp was right around 30 degrees as I headed to work - cold enough to guarantee the carb heaters never shut off from engine heat. I ride about 25 miles, so this is far enough to ensure the current drain from starting the bike is completely replaced by the time I get to work, giving me the opportunity to observe the charging system both with a battery taking light charge, then a fully charged battery. Bottom line: with the driving lights on and the grip heaters on but headlight on low beam, the RSV can just barely handle the charging requirements of a normal battery in good condition at engine speeds above 1,800 RPM. Turning off the driving lights (total load reduction of 70 watts) makes a BIG difference. Below 1,800 RPM with driving lights and grip heaters on, the ammeter shows the charging system cannot handle the load and the battery is discharging. Hitting the brakes dramatically increases that discharge, and brakes with turn signals even more. This means the RSV has very little practical reserve charging capacity during cold weather unless you turn off the driving lights! Here are the technical details to go with those observations: At high idle after starting (about 1200 RPM, while the battery is trying to take a charge, with lights and grip heaters but no brakes or signals), the system voltage reads only about 10.9 volts, and the ammeter shows the battery is discharging. Raising the RPM close to 2,000 pushes the voltage up to 11.7, and the ammeter shows 0, meaning that the charging system is handling all the lights and heaters, but nothing (or only minor amount) is left to recharge the battery. Over 2,000 RPM shortly after starting (all conditions the same as above), the system voltage raises to about 12.3 and the ammeter begins showing a slight current flowing into the battery. After the battery is fully recharged, the system voltage at idle with lights and grip heaters but without brakes or signals is about 11.9, and the ammeter still shows a slight discharge. Hitting the brakes at idle drops the voltage to 10.9. Fully recharged battery with lights and grip heaters on, normal cruising RPM, the system voltage registers about 13.2. With a fully recharged battery, turning off only the grip heaters at idle pushes the voltage back up to about 12.8, and turning off the driving lights gets it all the way back up to about 13.5.This test is admittedly unscientific, and all the voltages were based only on memory from this morning's ride (not carefully written down under precise conditions), but I hope that information at leasts gives you something to base your decisions on when deciding on additional accessories. Good luck, Goose
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Ordered the grips at the below link. Anyone using these? Suppose to be able to use the OEM weights so that is why I ordered them...Wanted something other than the Kuryakyn Grips.... Here's the link to the grips page age Big Bike Parts.. The OEM weights will not slide into the grip ends...JUST a LITTLE to big... Also I assume that on the throttle side there is no need to open up the cable housing? Just remove grip like the left side.... Thoughts if any would be appreciated... Long Tall Lynchburg, VA http://www.bigbikeparts.com/Inventory/Navision/17-376?catalogNo=1 -
Hey All, PO of my bike has installed a set of Kuryakyn Iso grips, feel ok but seam very big. Is there a grip that is thinner? I have the originals as well, not sure if they can be reused. Is there a trick to getting the right side off, nothing listed in the repair manual, only the left side...Thanks
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Going to put grip warmers on my Venture,the kind the go under the grips.Can I reuse the stock grips and if so,How do I get them off without tearing them up?If not,what aftermarket grips work on the Venture?I'm not looking for something fancy and expensive like Kuryakyn,just a basic grip.
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I'm out for a spin yesterday and lovin' the warm weather and country back roads. And I notice this happening a few times during the ride. Starting out from an intersection, turning right or left, clear road (no sand, gravel, road kill) the rear tire slips its grip. Just a little, but noticeable. I'm not what you would call a hard rider. You won't find me scrapping pegs on turns. So I'm thinking because I don't use the outside edge of the tire except maybe on turns from intersections, the grip is lost due to lack of use. My question is: Would it be a good idea to rough up the outside edge of the tire with sand paper to get the rubber to grip better? Has anyone tried this or had experience with it? I just figure that it sounds logical. Of course, I watched the Leafs this year. Don't know why. Thomas
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So today I may have done a monumentally STUPID move. My new Parts bike has very nice & comfortable heavy grip with the V on the end weights of I decided to swap them out. The parts bike grips came off fairly easy. I took off the OEM ones from the left side of my bike w/o issue. The one on the throttle would not really budge. I twisted it to full throttle & gave a little more umph. Nothing ridiculous, & I heard "CLICK" now when I turn the throttle I hear a scraping noise at a certain point. ( & yes it does bind slightly & not snap back all the way) BTW I did get the grip of by using compressed air & blowing it off. (shudda done that 1st) I am assuming that I may have snapped a few strands inside on the cable since it still works & what I hear is the broken strands scraping the cable cover. 1. How difficult is this to replace? 2. Since I heard the click after turning to full throttle, would it be the cable on the front of the grip? 3. How much of a PITA is this to replace & how much of the bike will I have to tear down AGAIN? It never ceases to amaze me how I can CREATE problems to fix. The plus point is I have the parts bike with full replacement parts on hand. -
I have been riding year-'round since the late 60s, and I have never had grip heaters or used electric clothing. As I get older, however, I am finding that the painful fingers when the temperatures drop below 30 are less acceptable, so this year, I started experimenting with grip heaters on the RSV. I really like the stock grips on QuickSilver, so I didn't want to just replace them with heated grips; that left either wrap-around heater covers or the under-grip heat strips. I first ordered a set of Oxford HotHands wrap-arounds. These are specifically labeled for use ONLY on 1 7/8" bars, as they will make the grips too large when put over grips on 1" bars. I decided to ignore this and try them anyway since I have very large hands. Turns out, we are both right. The HotHands are quite thick, and when put over the RSV grips, they feel overly large. I was easily able to get used to them, but most people probably wouldn't. In addition, the HotHands only have one temperature - High! To modulate the heat, the only choice is to turn them off and on periodically. My next try was to order a heated grip kit designed to install underneath existing grips. These consist of self-stick mylar sheets with heating elements bonded to the surface. The ones I ordered use a dropping resistor and two position switch to provide low and high heat options. More on the resistor later. Before I tried installing the heater kit as it was designed, I wanted to try and make my own set of grip wraps that could be removed easily when not needed. First, I chose to use buckskin, since I had it available and I thought the deer skin grips would be comfortable and functional. Although the buckskin worked very nice, I think rubberized nylon or canvas would have been a better choice. With the leather, I am concerned about the long-term effects of water, and when washing the bike I have been either wrapping the grips in plastic or removing them. Here's a picture of the heat strips and Velcro on the buckskin: [ATTACH]5015[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]5016[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]5017[/ATTACH] Important: If you are going to make a set of wrap-around heaters like this, you need to be careful to get the kind of elements with the SAME amount of heat on BOTH. Many sets made for motorcycles have one that heats a lot more to compensate for the damping effect of the cold metal bar directly against it on the left side. The dropping resistor is a bit of a problem - these get HOT when the grips are on low, hot enough to burn your fingers. There is at least one other brand of grip heater kit available that uses two separate heating circuits instead of the resistor, and I would use those in the future instead of the more common type with the resistor. I used some plastic wire wrap to hold the excess wire and the resistor (it came all soldered together), and then just stuck the wire assembly down behind the throttle cables and the fairing. (note - after using these for a year, just having the resistor and wires stuffed between the throttle cables and the fairing as shown in the picture has worked perfectly - the heat from the resistor has not damaged anything.) [ATTACH]5018[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]5019[/ATTACH] Finally, I just wrapped the wires from the grips once around the existing bar wire bundle and routed the wires from the left grip and the power plug through more of the plastic wire wrap across the front of the handlebars. The tach mount made a convenient place to mount the switch. I am currently powering these from the power plug in the fairing, but will permanently wire the switch next time I split the fairing. [ATTACH]5020[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]5021[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]5022[/ATTACH] I am quite happy with this solution and think this is what I will stay with! Goose UPDATE - one year later: I have used these grip heaters for two winters now, and I love them. In November we took a weeks ride up to Pigeon Forge, Tennessee, and the weather for three days all the way there was low 30s and solid rain. Of course, the buckskin grip heaters got soaked, but that just made them work even better, as the water absorbed the heat and kept my hands "steamy" warm. Even when my winter gloves got so wet that just making a fist would cause water to stream out of them, these grip heaters were too warm to leave on Hi very long. After the grip heaters dried out, they are still in perfect shape. One of the things I like most about them is that I only have to have them on the grips when really needed. Here is an updated picture of the dash and location of the switch between the tach and the right handle bar. [ATTACH]14364[/ATTACH]
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About a month ago there was a post about a notchy feeling in the break and clutch and I believed I solved it with a fluid change. well its back and very annoying. I will hit the brale and its not enough to stop so I squeeze harder and it notches from firm to death grip and makes me really dive. I wonder if my plunger has goulk on it that needs to be cleaned out or if the pistons in the calipers have corrosion. either way. can someone direct me to a good source for both rebuild kits?
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How do you deal with removing/installing the grips on a first gen? Are the chrome caps on the end of the bars removable or do the old grips have to be cut off and the new ones stretched over the end caps? I have an 84 VR that the PO put leather grip covers on, which make my hands feel like I'm holding onto the fat end of a baseball bat. Want to remove the covers and set something up that is a little smaller in diameter.
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What's some opinions on Grip Puppies and where is the best place to get them. Thanks Richard
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Hello: I like the stock grips with my modified bar end weights on my RSTD, but have often thought that a slightly larger grip might be nice. After searching and reading about grips here on the site, I decided to order a set of Grip Puppies. They arrived this week. I hope to have time to install them this morning. Any hints or tips. I see soapy water is the key? Thanks....
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These are the type that get glued onto your bar and the grip goes over and as per manufacturer also on top of the throtle under the grip. I used it all winter keeping my hands warm . I had a situation where I thought my throttle cables were binding. I lubed,adjusted lubed again with no cure. Not till chaging bars did I realize that the throttle plastic grip was distorted due to the heat from the heating strips. The throttle binds and is awesome as a cruise but taking a trip though traffic I really wished the things was working smoothly. I know I will be purchaing a throttle lock but is there any way to get the throttle back to shape. heat and something ???
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Looking for an earlier grab and firmer grip on take off. I cannot get used to my clutch engageing at neary full release. To completly dis-ingage I only need to pull about 1" on release lever. So I am looking for anything that will make it engage "earlier" and grip sooner. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10518
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Any suggestion as to what and where to purchase. Mine is not a Royal and I bought one off Ebay that mounts between the grip and the power switch assembly - Problem is, on my bike the throttle grip and the power switch do not seperate so the bracket cannot fit between them. Thanks in advance. Roger -
I've seen on some mc club bikes a braided line off the left or right hand grip that almost touches the ground. Looks like a long leather pony tail....what's the purpose if one?
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Heeeeeeeeelp!!!!!---I removed my throttle cables and disassembled my starter button and cruise control to clean the contacts--got that accomplished---NOW---how do I get the cables back into the throttle grip???
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Thought I drop a line here and mention, I order a set of grip puppies from http://www.casporttouring.com and they are if not the one the fastest shippers it was here in the mailbox 4 days after I order them.. When ordering on-line I alwas been wary of it and this is a great place to order from..
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I have a problem with my throttle grip. It's not returning to idle on it's own. It started after the bike sat in the rain at work. I have lubbed the cables and tried to lube the linkage with no success. I would apperciate any suggestions. I can still ride but it's not comforting keeping a constant grip to return the throttle.
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OK...I got rid of my Dunlop 404 tires (front and back). The ride home (appeared) to be MUCH different with the Dunlop Elite 3's on the bike. The bike (appeared) to handle much better. The bike (appeared) to have much more grip. AND The bike (appeared) to have NO "squirrely" shifting around when going over bumps, lines and tar snakes. So what is REALLY going on here? Why the "percieved" change? What causes it? I realized just by changing the tires that the grip should improve, but the handling to the degree I am seeing it kind of amazes me. Are SOME OF THIS PERCEIVED changes psychological (placebo effect)? What is everyone's opinion on this... Wally
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Does anyone have a right side throttle grip they want to get rid of. The '99's is just plain ugly. Too many twists on it. The left side looks great, and would like to find something in about the same condition. The right looks like it's shrunk and pulled out of the chrome ring and the ends are curled up. Attached are a couple of picks. Anyway hoping someone may have a grip laying around after putting on some Kuryakyns.
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For the past 4 days I have been caught in RAIN and My footing kept on slipping My remedy was purchasing Marine Anti-Slip Grip Tape It works great and Looks pretty cool, on the scoot
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Well I installed my 6235 ISO grips. Biggest difficulties were getting the bullet end cap weights off without scratching them & modifying the grip ends to enable use of the OEM end caps. For getting the end-caps off - wrapped the outside of the caps with 6 layers of duct tape then used a strap wrench to break them loose to unscrew found grunting & vulgarity quite helpful For opening the ISO grip end to fit the OEM end-cap - I started grinding out the hole with a Dremel tool... that was taking forever! went to Harbor Freight & bought $15 Step-Drill then drilled out the holes to 1 inch easily cut a brass pipe for the spacer on the throttle side Only remaining problem is that the throttle is a little sticky. I'll take it apart & fix that another day. The grips are great & look really nice with the OEM end-caps on. johnb
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Stood the bike up today and the left grip cracked in my hand. Called Kuryakyn customer service. All they did was to offer to sell me a replacement grip along with shipping costs. I have never seen one of these grips crack. Im just curious if anyone here ever had that happed to them.
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Latest add-on to my 05 midnight venture. Here is my write up on the install with some pics. Installed grip heaters made by Symtec (www.symtec-inc.com) (pic 1). Purchased from http://phatperformaceparts.com for $39.95. After I removed the throttle grip and seen the ribs under the rubber grip (pic 2) had to carve of the ribs off the plastic throttle sleeve in order to attach the heater. Used a box cutter to cut them off, they came off pretty easy. Once I had them removed, attached the heater with the wires at the right position, did not glue the heater as the instructions called for (pic 3). I re-installed the grip over the heater very carefully. The Clutch grip (pic 3a) was a little easier, did have to trim some off the chrome plastic end (pic 3b) to allow the wired end of the heater to fit on the bar. Attached the heater to the bar and slipped the grip over the heater and bar. Wires were long enough to route down the handlebar to the sides of the under the tank. Left some slack on the throttle side(pic 4) to allow movement of the throttle. I removed the tank and seat in order to finish wiring, I installed a relay at the battery area in order to connect to my switch control accessory switch (pic 5) wire which is mounted on left handlebar. I installed this a year ago, purchased from http://www.cruisercustomizing.com It has two push locking switches Top- my red LED lights under bike, Lower- grip heaters, they have a red LED to indicate that they are on. The switches are on an un-switched 12v from the battery. I installed a three position switch on the tank chrome cover(pic 6) for the HI/OFF/LO control, wired the three wire switch to a three pin plug in order so it can removed (pic 7). The three pin connector has 12v from relay, HI & LO wires from heaters. I connected the ground wires from the heaters to a bolt on the frame. I also installed a fuse holder on the 12v from the battery to the relay. They recommend a 3 or 4 amp fuse. I have a 3 amp so far works good. From the first I turned the heaters on, they warmed up pretty fast. Have used them on the cool mornings we have had lately. Wish I would have had them installed before the cold weather hit. I have used them with my regular summer groves and the winter leather groves, great so far. The temperature here is going back up, so LO has been good for now. Time will tell how long these heaters will last; one point for failure will be the wires where they connect to the heaters, especially the throttle side. Luckily we don’t need them very much down here. But since I ride all year round, hope it will make the cold ride into town and back home nicer when I am on the late shift this time of year. My hands were the only parts that were feeling the cold. Hope this write up shows enough. It was fairly easy, about an hour and a half to complete.
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How do you remove the stock grips? I what to install the Kuryaken ISO but wanted to know how the old grips come off? Is there a thottle sleeve under the throttle grip? Thanks
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