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VR Assistance

  1. Hello everyone, I just purchased a 1988 Venture Royale with a side car. Is there anywhere I can get a set of stainless steel brake lines for it? It already has them but the one for the front right caliper snapped off at the caliper. I haven't had much luck looking for a kit so I am hoping someone here knows a kit that cross references or knows the lengths that I need.
  2. Brakes: Hey guys, I’m brand new to Ventures and of limited mechanical ability, but I need to rebuild my calipers. I just bought a 1987 Venture in good condition except that the last time they parked it (3 years ago), they lost their back brakes on the ride home. Sure enough, when I went to look at the bike, there had been evidence of a leaky front caliper. Thanks to another thread, I learned about the linked braking. So I was planning on rebuilding the rear and left front calipers. But the right front caliper actually looked like it was more likely to be the culprit. The leak puddled on the right side of the bottom of the rim but I don’t remember if the wheel had been angled such that the leak might have crossed through the spokes from the left caliper. Either way, the hand brake works and the pedal does not. Do the front and rear caliper rebuild kits have the same part number? Is there a known good source for the kits? What is considered a good price on these? I think I found kits to rebuild all three(no pistons) for around $100. A bit pricey for some rubber seals and a couple of pins, so that seems about right. Carbs: I siphoned out the 3-year-old gas and have been running Seafoam (about 4 tanks so far) through it. The bike starts, warm or cold, with the choke on. Once warm, I can bring the choke back 1/2 way, but that’s it. I can get it to idle between 800-1200 rpm, but can’t keep it running with the choke off. Even idling (with 1/2 choke), I have to give the throttle a little feather before taking off or maneuvering at parking lot speeds. I know very little about carburetors. Should I start by trying to adjust the idle? Is balancing the carbs something I can do myself? Thanks for the help.
  3. Well I've spent the winter doing all the PM's I could do. Just finished with the new tires, brakes and the Star Glide conversion. So here are the pics. http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg318/2057ken/006-1.jpg http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg318/2057ken/005.jpg http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg318/2057ken/002-1.jpg
  4. I have a 2009 RSTD and I was told there is a way to combine the braking so that you get the braking like there is on the new bikes. So when you apply either the hand brake or the foot brake you get a combination of both. Obviously it will require a proportioning valve but I am hoping someone smarter than me has figured this out and outlined how to do it for us simple folk that need the help. I also would like my bars a little closer to me I was told to remove the bars flip the riser 180 degrees and reinstall them. This almost works except it hits the fork nut and would require the bracket be milled and then I think the bars would hit the same nut. Thanks for the help, Slim Pick
  5. Last fall ,I replaced my rear breaks on my 05 RSV .(with 17,000 miles on it.) At that time they were warn paper thin..So yesterday I decided to replace my fronts...(in the fall..dealer told me fronts were at 30 % left on pads).Well to my surprise when I pulled my pads, THEY LOOKED LIKE NEW...I never liked the way the front brakes felt or sounded..needed a lot of preasure to slow down or stop and was afraid I'd lock the front by using to much force ..The only thing I noticed is that the front brakes were matelic and the rears were different...I replaced them anyway..Did I mention the fronts would often squeel or groan on a hard stop.. IS this normal? Shouldn't those brakes have been shot by now? I always use my fronts for stopping..I find it odd that there was so much pad left..
  6. Greetings, new member from the eastern shore of MD. I have been riding and wrenching for 20+ years, just added a 2000 RSV mm to the stable and had it out for the first real ride today. The front brakes on this bike are very weak -- the rear brake is great and oddly feels 5x as strong as the front. The fluid looks clear and the master cylinder seems to actuate cleanly. Before I pull the calipers off and check out that side of the equation, I figured I would check the wisdom of the list on any potential common problem(s) to look for. I did a quick forum search, but didn't find anything that stood out to me. Thanks in advance, Israel
  7. Hi folks. New member here. I just picked up an '89 Venture Royale, 29K miles, overall good shape but hasn't run regularly in over a year. It's my first touring bike. I've owned an inline 4 (Kawa), two Triumph in-line twins (including my current other bike) but this is my first V configuration bike. I have what I would self-assess as intermediate/advanced mechanical ability. The bike has a couple of problems that need to be addressed immediately before getting my state inspection so I can title and register it. First: It's missing and it appears to be the right rear cylinder (don't know yet how the cylinders or numbered). It will only idle somewhat smoothly when it's warmed up, about middle of temp gauge. On the ride home, it was clearly missing, but when I hammered the throttle, the missing cylinder would start firing and it would pull like a train...an obvious difference in engine performance. Now, in the garage with the air box out, it bogs immediately at more than half throttle. I'm thinking that I have some seriously gummed up carbs, maybe a fuel system issue, but not entirely sure. Do I try to clean and clear out the fuel system with Seafoam or some other product without pulling, disassembling, and cleaning the carbs, or should I just go straight to getting those carbs off and giving them a thorough cleaning? Anyone experience something similar and what was the fix? I've printed off an excellent 1st Gen Carb Service tutorial and am confident that I can pull those carbs and give them a thorough going through...I'd just rather avoid it if I can get away with it. Second: Front braking action is decent, but not great. Certainly not as good as I'd expect. Rear braking action is virtually non-existent. Good meat on pads all around and rotors are in good shape. I've ordered sintered brake pads all-around for it, which I'll install after I'm sure I have the braking action issues resolved. My hunch is that while the bike was sitting, some air has infiltrated and my lack of brake action can be resolved with a thorough bleeding and replacing the brake fluid. So what's the best method for brake bleeding on these bikes and what else should I check to ensure I have properly functioning, reliable brakes? I've also ordered new fuel, air, and oil filters and intend to replace all the fluids to include coolant and to inspect and lube everything identified in the manual. What else should I be doing to the bike to get it back into tip-top shape? Thanks and happy to be aboard!
  8. I just replaced the wiring harness on my 83. I seem to have no brake lights but all my other lights are working. According to the wiring diagram this should mean I have power to the circuit. Any thoughts? The fuses are all good also. Neither brake switch is working.
  9. 1992 Venture Royale. Working on brakes. Is it just me, or does the location of the reservoir for the rear master cylinder make it a real pain to work with? I'm thinking I need to put that thing somewhere else. At least somewhere where I can get the lid off. Yes, I know I can fill it with a syringe or tubing, but I'd rather just put where I can see into it, clean it out if I want to, etc... Anybody ever tried this or am I trying to over-simplify this bike? Thanks, Richard:lightbulb:
  10. Good morning everyone, Since purchasing a non-running '92 VR back in January, I've gotten it running and have everything working on it except the back/left front brakes. I rebuilt the master cylinder and the rear brake caliper. It wouldn't bleed. I removed the line going to the front at the master cylinder and plugged the master cylinder with a flanged bolt. Back brakes bled out fine. I have intentions to de-link the rear and front brakes, but I want to get this thing fixed first. As I don't yet have the money to upgrade yet. As part of the de-link process, I've read on this site that many people are using YZF-R1 or R6 calipers, so I got a set of blue-star front calipers off an R6. $49 bucks on eBay with no shipping charge. Tested them on the bench and they looked like they were working. After installation, still couldn't bleed the brakes. I got a 65cc syringe and attached a piece of clear tubing to it and tried to pull brake fluid through the line that way. No love there, as the syringe would pull a vacuum but when I let go, it would just snap back. I felt like something was stopped up. I loosened the bleeder up by the handle bars and tried again, same result. I must be stopped up somewhere between the caliper and the top bleeder. Ok, so what now? I went out to the barn and tried the same thing on an '87 donor bike I have. I could pull air through its line just fine. So, I removed that brake line and installed it on my '92. Now when I use the syringe method of bleeding, I can pull brake fluid all the way from the rear master cylinder reservoir to the front left caliper. HOO! RAY! Finished bleeding the brakes and now I have a decent pedal and feel like I can do an upgrade from a clean baseline when the time comes (that translates to, when I get the money). If I hadn't already spent so much money on this bike, I would've already gotten the brake upgrade kit that Skydoc_17 sells and I will. Here's the link to his kit: http://www.venturerider.org/classifi...line-21&cat=22 I post this to help encourage others that it is possible to clean up a 20+ year old brake system. On bikes that have been sitting up for many years, a stopped up brake line might be preventing you from bleeding your brakes. Important: If you have an older bike (20+ years old), it would be in your best interest to replace as much of the old system as you can afford as stopping is so important and no one needs a surprise in an emergency on a high-powered 800 lb. bike. Let's go riding.
  11. Once I finally get done upgrading my rear brakes on my Hannigan, I will be looking at possible improvements with my front brakes, so I thought I'd check to see if anybody has ever gone to a better caliper, better rotors, etc. I do have SS lines to install but I'm looking for more...
  12. How thick are new pads just put new rubber on now looking at brakes. Seems like there is some pad left to me but just making sure.
  13. I recently changed out my rear pads. Brakes have been completly flushed and operate fine. But when I apply the rear brake I hear a sort of clicking sound I never heard before. Almost sounds like crickets or something. Dont hear it if you only apply front brakes. I was thinking maybe it was because now there is more pad to cross over the vent holes in disk. But why wouldnt you hear it from the front.
  14. Well I took the beast out for it's first semi-long ride Sunday, about 100 or so miles. After working on it for a few weeks , cleaning carbs, repairing the brakes, changing plugs, and all the fluids (coolant, brake fluid, rear oil etc) it was time for a ride. Nice day here on Sunday about 68 so the girlfiend and I said lets go for a ride. She usually rides her own bike, 1997 Honda Shadow VLX 600 but she wanted to ride on the back. The bike rode well and she liked the rear seating and the noise level better than my Electra-Glide. It's not quite as heavy as my Glide so it went through the twisties with ease. Plenty of power and to my amazement everything worked, cruise, self cancelling signals etc. I do have to get used to the hydraulic clutch engagement, and the brakes! Doesn't stop as quickly as my other bikes, but I guess that is because of the linked brakes. The engine temp stayed way down in the green even in traffic. Fuel mileage was 34-35 mpg about the same as my Harley in town. So overall it was a nice ride, and the bike really performed well.....
  15. I am looking for some passenger arm rest for the 93 trike. Charlene says she doesnt need them, but I think she would be much more comfortable with them. Does anyone still make them or maybe someone here has set they no longer need. I am just about finished making the changes to the trike since I bought it. Yesterday I replaced the old glass tube fuse block with one from radio shack and using Skydoc's instructions it was easy, the only difference between his and radio shacks is 5 fuses vs 6 on Skydocs. I also did the battery fluid level light bypass. The only thing left to address is the front brakes. They have been delinked when triked, but only one disk up front is working. The Vmax mod is next for the brakes. Later when I have the funds I will be doing the front brake mods to make them more reliable and better.
  16. For the second time in a month now, riding some twisty's, I've lost my rear brakes. They come right back as soon as I stop (or stop using them). Only happens/happened on downhill twisties. I've been riding twisties for a while now and consider myself fairly competent at it. I have ridden twisties on this bike before and not had any issue. I tend to use front and back in combination to shed speed getting set-up for a turn and then a bit of trailing rear brake into the beginning of a turn as needed. Pretty sure my technique hasn't changed in the last 2 months (hit some twisties hard about 2 mo's ago with no issues) so looking for suggestions on where to start looking. Pads are about 50% life left. Have not changed the fluid since getting this bike. sp!ke
  17. thanks to the awesome help of Tazmocycle the 99 RSTD is running it has a fowled plug but running also some carbon build up on the lifters that should clean up with seafoam but it runs and as far as im concerned it runs better than it has all year cause it hasn't run at all this is an anniversary gift from my wife last year and i finally got to ride it although a short ride around the block. it felt good to chase the front tire and handled great now to get the front brakes to work right they want to stay engaged not relasing i guess from sitting for so long i will flush the brakes tomorrow :cool10::cool10::bighug::bighug:
  18. Today I took the time to bleed and flush the clutch and the front brakes, all went well till I tried to bleed the left front caliper on the 93 trike. Pumped up the brake and broke open the bleeder, nothing came out.........so I loosened the brake line at the caliper and fluid came out. The brakes were delinked when it was triked, but evidently they didnt replace the proportioning valve for the front brakes so both would work off of the brake lever. I am in need of one so I can get more braking power to the front, 1 caliper dont work too good on a heavy trike. I guess I will have to check with Skydoc to see if he has one available.
  19. Every time I touch the brakes my fuse blows. Why is this ?
  20. I was bleeding my brakes per the Service Manual - right front, left front, rear, and the one on top. I installed SpeedBleeders on the left front and the rear as I went along. Everything worked as per normal -- fluid came out exactly as expected. No problems until I tried to bleed the one on top. Nothing came out - no air, no fluid, --nothing. I went around to the left front and nothing came out from there (even though it did a few minutes before). Likewise for the rear caliper bleed valve (which worked before). Hey, at least the right front works perfectly. Everything is like it came from the factory -- I never delinked the brakes or did any brake upgrades on this VR. The brakes were working fine before all of this. I just wanted to do some flushing for maintenance reasons. My guess is that there is something going on with the rear master cylinder. I searched the forum but nothing turned up that is exactly like this problem. I am open to suggestions before I begin surgery on the patient ....
  21. want to change fluid in clutch res: can't find the bleeder where did they hide that little sucker? help please. got front brakes and rear brakes done. 2006 venture. going on my first 5 day ride to mount rushmore , bad lands and other sights to see, try'n to get reddy to go. clutch fluid looks dirty, wanna change it!:confused24:
  22. Getting closer to winter and I have been mulling over the idea of fitting a set of ABS brakes to Tweety for its annual winter upgrade. Not as far fetched as it may seem. The technology is out there and proven. It is just a matter of integrating an existing system onto a 1st gen Venture. Then there is that little testing issue, but that comes later. Mounting the rotational sensors seems like a relatively straight forward target. When I put the VMax wheel on the front I had to put spacers on each side due to narrower hub, so the front end is easy, the rear would be a tad more of a challenge. Finding room for the control unit seems possible in one of the fairing pockets. Then it would come down to plumbing in the lines, which should be relativity simple given the custom made stainless lines available. There are ABS controllers available at Pinwall scrappers now & then. Does anyone have any technical info on the inner workings of a MC system? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anti-lock_braking_system Gary
  23. Just got off the phone with the OPP (Ontario Provincial Police) asking about the modulator's you can get for the rear brake lite. According to the Ontario Highway Traffic Act, you CAN NOT have any device that provides a flashing red light. It goes on to say tapping the brakes is OK...so MY common sense thinking on this is that the law applies to a STEADY flash....that could be interpreted as impersonating a police vehicle. But a light that flashes 3 times then goes solid is no different than tapping the brakes to flash the driver behind...which I often do on the bike anyway. Anyway...the Sgt. I spoke to said it sounds very much like it would be up the the officer's discretion. So if you P.O'd the leo for some reason, he could nail you for the flasher. The back of my bike is lit up pretty good for running lights...but the only brake light is the factory installed rear brake light mounted on the fender. In the daylight I think it get lost so I'm thinking I'll use the reflector LED mod FlyingFool did up for the brake light and put a modulator on it anyway....and take my chances. I'd rather take my chances with an uncooperative LEO objecting to it than with John Q Public who might not see my brake lights .
  24. As most already know the brakes on the MK1 suck. I found a nice set of forks for a 90-93 on ebay but missed the end of the auction. I sent the seller a pm and hope he gets back to me. Is $100 shipped a decent price? I figure I will get everything piece by piece until I have everything to do the job.
  25. I rode my bike to work today and then left around 11:00 to make a run to my Heat Treat source. A Ground Hog came out of no where running across the road. I started to hit the brakes and even had my foot on the peddle and decided to hit it straight on without the brakes at all. I braced myself with arms and shoulders tight to keep the front wheel straight after hitting it. My teeth were clinched tight also:smile5:. I waited for the bump and jar but it never happened. I don't know if he went under the bike or right in front of the tire. After it was all over I was just smiling going down the road and then laughing. I can't believe how close that was. Real close.
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