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Showing results for tags 'valves'.
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Hello all, Been a lurker for the last year and I'm finally posting as I need some help and couldn't find the answers I was after in prior posts. I'm afraid my V4 thinks it's only a V-twin! Forgive me that this will be rather long, as I want to give complete information in hopes that will be better able to assist me. Background: I have an '89 VR (Cali model, if it matters) that I bought almost exactly a year ago and have been slowly restoring and returning to road duty on a budget. Approximately 34,000 miles. When I bought the bike it would only run on full choke, and poorly at that. Previous owner bought it that way as a project. He attempted the shotgun cleaning method but that didn't work, then he lost interest. I have no other prior service history, though I can see that a lot of the prior "modifications" were poorly executed, so I have little faith in the competence of the PO (not who I bought it from) to properly repair and maintain the bike. Anyhow, I removed carbs and had a friend who operates an independent bike shop fully clean, rebuild, and bench synch the carbs. I have since installed and also installed new NGK iridium plugs. Running and performance: Bike has been running now for a few months, but not especially well. I have taken it out on a few "shakedown" rides of around 100 miles or so in hopes that riding it around would help it heal after coming out of an unknown period of hibernation. That hasn't fixed it. At start-up it fires right up on full choke but doesn't sound as smooth as I would expect and I hear a periodic popping that I believe to be pre-ignition or some incomplete combustion(???). Riding it it's a bit of a dog at first and I will have to feather the throttle some when I come to a stop (off of choke). It doesn't fall on its face when accelerating, it just doesn't feel as strong as it should. Mileage is horrible - I'm having to get gas after only around 75 miles or so. After riding for quite some distance (more than 15 miles) and especially after really flogging it on a more sustained basis, it seems to run noticeably better, although never 100% (at least I don't think). Still some popping on deceleration and doesn't always want to idle at stops if I let off the throttle. So in my estimation it seems to be running "kinda decent" at these times, though having never ridden one of these, I don't know what a properly running one should feel like. For reference I have owned several V45 Magnas, a ZX-12R (my main bike), and other inline 4's, among others. I have ridden a VMax once, but it was a number of years ago now. My memory of it is pretty limited, but my Venture doesn't feel nearly as powerful as I remember the VMax. My ZX-12R is in another stratosphere, but that's not an apt comparison. Current Symptoms & efforts to diagnose: I've had a suspicion that #4 is not firing, or at least not all the time. I'd previously used a pointable thermometer and saw the temperature (measured pointing at the jug) was significantly lower on #4 as compared to others. Unfortunately, I only ever checked this after starting the bike up in the driveway and riding up and down my street, rather than after an extended ride where it was running "better." I had also previously checked the spark plug in #4 and saw it was wet and likely fouled (cleaned, dried it, and reinstalled since it only had a couple hundred miles on it). This past Sunday I set about to figure out what was wrong, and fix it if I could. I started it up in the driveway on full choke and it fired right up. After letting it idle for a couple minutes I pulled the plug wire off of #4 - no change whatsoever. I stuffed another plug in it while it was still running and I do have spark - I both felt it and touched the plug to the engine and saw spark. I can't really say how strong, as it was in bright daylight, but I could definitely see it. More surprising to me was that I pulled the wire on #3 and had the very same outcome. I then pulled #1 and it immediately started to stumble, so I reinstalled. Didn't bother pulling #2 as it obviously had spark since the bike didn't immediately die when I pulled #1 . Pulled the plugs and inspected. #4 was wet and clearly fouled. Others were ok (not great), with the white ceramics a bit sooty, but not wet like #4 . Weirdly, #3 actually looked the best. Gapped and installed new NGK DPR8EA-9 plugs and crossed my fingers. I also checked the pilot mixture screws and discovered they were set anywhere from 3/4 out to 3 full turns out. I adjusted them all to 2 1/2 turns out as a baseline based upon what I read in other posts. Fired it up and it was no different. Could still pull the plug wires off of #3 & #4 without any effect. I probably should have taken the bike out and really run it before starting all this, but I didn't. Was thinking instead about having to work on a hot engine. Next I did a compression test. 1=190; 2=195; 3=195; 4=175 (eventually). So, #4 was lower and slower to pump up. No idea if/when valve lash has ever been inspected/adjusted. I see that it requires a special tool and shims, neither of which I have. I now suspect this may be at least part of the cause of my problems, but 175 psi still seems like it should be more than enough compression to support combustion. I continued on with checking ignition components, thinking the trouble may lay there. Holy hell what a job to get to the TCI and coils. I checked resistance on the pickup coil at the plug and all tested wires were within spec. I then checked primary resistance on the ignition coils and all 4 were in spec. at 2.9 ohms. I then checked secondary resistance by inserting a probe into plug cap and got the following resistance numbers: 1=22.5; 2=24; 3=22.1; 23.7. At first these numbers alarmed me as they are all much higher than the 15 ohm maximum specified in the service manual, but then I read that the plug cap should be 10 ohms itself +/- 10%, so if I subtract this out, all three coils are in spec for secondary resistance as well. I suppose I could remove the wires from the coils and try to test at the coil directly, but access is limited and I know I'm getting (at least some) spark to all 4 cylinders. Let me say I am not at all excited at the prospect of pulling the upper fairing to change out coils unless it is absolutely necessary. Considering they all test about the same, I'm thinking they're ok, but you guys are the experts on these bikes, not I. Those numbers also lead me to think the wires and ends must be (at least) ok too (I took apart plug wire and end for #4 and everything looked fine (no green corrosion), then I clipped a 1/4" off both ends of the wire and re-assembled). I got the TCI out of its stock location as well. From what I've read these can be the source of all kinds of poor running conditions as they start to fail. It is weird to me that when they fail it is not a complete failure, as that has been my past experience with CDI's. I can't help but wonder if this magic black box is the source of my problems. I did open the cover, but wasn't brave enough to dig out the soldering iron and desolder the pins to the main plugs just so I could look at the top of the motherboard and the diodes that are known to fail. My understanding from reading past posts is that if the TCI is not working properly, there's no fixing it. The diode replacement and resoldering of various connections is only preventative maintenance on properly functioning units. So my thinking was to leave it alone for now, since if it's broke I can't fix it, and if it ain't broke, I might just screw it up with my extremely limited soldering skills. It would certainly be helpful to have a known good one to plug in to rule in/out the TCI as a problem, but alas I do not have one and ones on ebay aren't cheap (for what may be junk anyhow). I've read about the Ignitek computer, but I don't know what my long-terms plans are for the bike and am concerned about budget. Besides, I don't want to just go throwing parts at it - especially expensive ones. I also checked to see if there's fuel getting to all 4 carbs and there is. I opened the drains on each of them and got full bowl's worth from each. So I'm not really sure where to go next with it. Based upon the compression test, I am wondering if valve adjustment should be next, though candidly I was hoping to avoid this job. I welcome suggestions, comments, offers of help, commiseration, jokes at my expense as the FNG, and further questions. I've done a ton of other work on the bike and I'm really anxious to have it finally "done." If I can ever get it running properly, I can turn my attention to the non-functioning cruise control (Grrrrr) and do a final "detailing" of the bike, before planning some longer trips. Thanks all for your patience in reading along, and thanks in advance for your assistance. [P.S. - If I have placed this post in the wrong folder, please feel free to move it and let me know where it should've been in the first place] -
I am checking the valves on my 96 Royal Star and have 5 shims that need to be changed. There are 2 local dealers who will swap shims but I need the tool for depressing the valves. Does anyone in Canada have one that is available for loan if I pay the shipping? I read in a previous post that Mother from Toronto had a kit that could be circulated but I have not been able to reach him. I live in Oshawa, Ontario. Thanks Doug
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Need to reach out and ask...bike is apart and I can't find these shims, rather I should say the dealer can't...I am in need of (1) Shim 2.70/25mm and (6) Shim 2.65/25mm...If anyone can help or point me in the right direction I would appreciate it...thx
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It appears to be pretty clean. It has about 65K miles. New upgraded stator put in within last 5000 miles. Needs a rear tire. Clutch rebuilt at same time stator was done. I am wondering what else I should be looking for with the miles it has on it. I am sure I will change all the fluids. Probably get the valves checked/adjusted. I also know there were some rear shock problems. Is this something I shoudl plan on changing, or just ride until it is needed? Anybody know approximately the cost of having the dealer do the valves? The price is $4799/OBO. Is that a good price and if not, what should I be trying to get it for? Thanks for any advice. Zak
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I just bought one used off of this site's classifieds and it arrived today. Wow, is this thing way more stout than I thought it would be. Pretty happy with it. Looking forward to adjusting valves and other maintenance this winter. -
Is there a roaming valve shim kit here somewhere? I have the engine out of my 84 right now and before I put it back in I would like to get the valves adjusted. Happy to cover shipping/etc. costs. Thanks, Bill
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I just took my bike out of storage and noticed I have an oil leak from the top rear cylinders. I am planning on getting a valve adjustment in the near future if I can get an appointment. Is there anything I can do now to stop it or just leave it till they do the valves? Thanks Much Keith
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I just had my valves adjusted as part of a 25K maintenance. There was always a little valve chatter, but now they sound like a coffee can filled with bolts. The dealer says that the valves tighten/quieten over time; seems adjusting the valves back to spec just makes them noisier. Does that sound right to you?
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I have a 1999 Venture with right at 40k miles on her. My valve covers, both of them are leaking like crazy. I'm having the dealer replace them so my question is it to early to have them adjust the valves? I know they are due at 52k but I really do not want to pay twice for them to go in there. Thanks guys.
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I'm coming up on 28k miles and need to get my valves done. One local stealer quoted me $700 just to do the valves. Any one know a reliable / honest mechanic in the central ohio area? I've wrenched on a lot of bikes but this valve train is something i don't want to do by myself as I've never done one. Thanks Zinger
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So when I start my 01 RSV and it is not warmed up I hear a ticking like an exhaust leak or maybe lose valves. But I thought the valves got tight with time and mileage. I have 14,000 miles on it and don't know if the valves have ever been checked or adjusted. So what could it be and what should I do? After about 3 mins the sound stops.
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I have access to the valves on my 83 Venture to check the clearance.My question is that I cant get the feeler guage between the cam lobe and the shim.I have rotated the cam on the low side.Are the valves just too tight or am I doing something wrong.I have worked on bikes for years and do all my own repairs.This is the first time I have worked on a shim and bucket desighn.I have a shim kit.
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I would like to know if anyone from Indiana has use Dryer for maintenance. If you was happy with them. I have a 2005 RSTD with 43,000 miles on it I got it new. The bike is stock except for Bub slip on's. I change my on oil, brake pads and plugs. It runs great and MPG is still good around 50 on the road. But I would like to get the valves check. I was thinking of get it check out this winter. After reading on this forum and other forums I think it hard to trust the dealers or who they have working for them.
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just curious how many miles some of you have gone with no valve adjust... my 2005 with 35,000 miles is running better than ever and really hate to tear into it if i don't need to. i had an 2006 suzuki c50T and had valves adjusted twice and never really ran the same but cost $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ I'm a believer in don't fix it if it aint broke. -
Based on the finding that Vmax exhaust valves are adjusted to a different setting than Venture exhaust valves I have created a separate Excel work sheet for those that use the Vmax heads. Attached below. The Venture work sheet is in the Tech library at the link below. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=43410 Gary -
1983 yamaha venture royale I am new here... currently checking valves ... bike has 63000 miles, and i don't think the valves have been done in a long time. 1. When I follow the yamaha manual's instructions and bring it to top dead center, or even anywhere near there, I can not get a gauge in to find the gap- could they seriously be that tight? 2. I am very confused about the valve shim tools available. I ordered one, following a thread on here saying that I could use a suzuki/yamaha tool. It is not here yet, but after reading some other threads I fear I have ordered an unnecessary piece of steel. What tool is commonly used... has anybody ever made one? 3. I have seen the great play by play on here on how to do this job, but the measurement task is a little fuzzy in the reading. Does anybody know of a video or pictures? Sorry, lots of pictures is how I learn. Thanks a lot. -
is thery any way to tell if the valves need adjusting with out taking vavle covers off:confused24:
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I know I am putting the cart before the horse but I want to be confident when I go to my dealer with the problem. Usually I do my own repairs but since the RSTD is still under warranty I may take it to them. For a few days now I have been smelling antifreeze from the bike after or during a ride. Not strong but enough to know there is a leak. Today after a 180 mile ride my son was riding the RSTD and shortly before getting home he said the Red Overheating Light came on. We could hear the coolant boiling in the reservoir so it was definitely hot. Initially I was thinking stuck thermostat...which I still think is the cause of the overheating but.... because I could smell the coolant but unable to find a leak I can't help but wonder if possible the water pump is heading south as well. So I am wondering if : 1. I should just go ahead and replace the thermostat my self or let the dealer do all the work. It doesn't look like that much to get to it. 2. Part of the repair would be to drain the coolant. I assume that the replacement coolant would be at the dealers expense under warranty as it would not need to be drained if the thermostat/water pump was not going bad. 3. Now here is a biggie: I would like to have my valves checked. I think the left front cylinder is off a bit as there is a very slight noise and the left side smokes a little bit. Compression on that cylinder is lower than the rest at about 190 lbs, vs about 210 lbs the other 3 cylinders. If they had to tear into the engine anyway how much more should I expect to be charged for them to look at the valves? I know ...lots of questions. Its hard when your brain looks like a cobweb. Thanks, Tom
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I want to check the valve clearances on my 96 Royal Star. The manual states they should be checked cold (less than 95 degrees) at room temperature. I only have an old wood stove in my shop and although I can get the inside temperature high enough to make it comfortable for working, I don't think it would be considered room temperature. What do you think would be the minimum temperature to be sure I get accurate clearance readings? I would like to get the valves adjusted and reassemble the bike but would it be better for me to wait till Spring when the outside temterature gets higher? I don't want to do all this work and get inaccurate readings because the engine is too cold. Thanks Doug
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I read that one does not need to worry about valve adjustment on the 1300 venture engine until around 100,000 miles. My bike has about 18,000 miles on it, 2008 but I would like to know just went is the recommended time to go to that length in getting into the valves and shim replacement. Just a ballpark figure so as I know about when to perform the valve job. Thanks, DanC:dancefool:
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I followed Goose's directions from his post and everything was great until I got to measuring the gap. I did like the manual and Goose said, timing mark in window to get TDC, and then the cams were pointing away from each other at about 5 and 7 o'clock. Problem is they are still in contact with the shims and you can't measure it. I cranked the engine a little further and the exhaust valves were free and intake was pushed open. Can you just measure the gap when the cam lobes are pointing up? It seems the round portion of the cam should be the same all the way around and the valve closed unless the cam is touching it.
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I have finally got my 1987 replacement engine taken apart to install the Vmax cams. I decided to pull the heads and do a valve job. The seller said it had about 40k miles on it and it looks very good inside. The manual says to install new valve oil seals when reinstalling the valves. These little guys are almost $12 each and there are 16 of them! Anybody have experience or opinion about reusing these oil seals?
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Of course it's in the center, farthest back. How far am I going to have to disassemble the bike to get this out? After having to reset 12 of the 16 valves, my day ends like that. -
OK, who wants to get together in the Dallas/Fort Worth area sometime in January to check float levels and/or valves? I already have one guy who is interested, but we have not set a date yet - if there are two or three others, maybe we can find a date that works for everyone? Let me know if you are interested, Goose Another offer: If you just want someone to do the work, instead of learning how to do it yourself, I'll do that too. I'll set floats and idle mixture for $150, valves for $300, or both together with new plugs for $375 (plus any parts needed, such as gaskets).
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a friend of mine needs some help with his 99 1500 honda valk. he paid a honda shop a lot of money to clean his carbs and now his float needle valves will not seat , the mech. installed new needle valves and polished the seats but gas still leaks past , he said there is no way to adjust the floats ?? anybody know how to adjust the floats ? he told me today that a new set of carbs cost 1700.00 not installed . i need to help him get the Valk. running so i can out run him , i do not want to run him on his other bike , a m109r Susy , he came by the shop today to ask for help and show me the 109 after looking at the 109 i kinda tucked my tail , man that is a lot of bike ! Thom
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