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I'm looking at getting the 100 LED brake light and the integrated LED run/brake/turn signals from Custom Dynamics.

 

Rear Signal lights - Dynamic Cluster - "The Dynamic Clusters will fit into your turn signal housings. You will need to find out if you have 1156 or 7507 bulbs in the rear. Now for the running and brake of the cluster you will have to hard wire that in. The signal light just plugs in.

You will also need a load equalizer or a metric signal stabilizer. The Metric Signal Stabilizer will not produce any heat. That will allow you to run your 4 ways flashers and not do any damage.

If you leave the front turn signals stock. It will NOT cause any issue. If you just do the rear LEDs you will only need one load equalizer. If you decide to do the front turn signals at a latter date you will need a load equalizer for the front."

http://www.customdynamics.com/motorcycle_dynamic_clusters.htm

GEN200-AR-7507-T $81/pair

*** confirm signal lighbulb type - other option is GEN200-AR-1156-T

See the following link to identify bulb type - http://www.customdynamics.com/bulb_identification_help.htm

 

http://www.customdynamics.com/loadequalizer.htm#Universal Turn Signal

GEN-7.5-30 $15.25

 

100 LED Brake light - "The GEN-100-1157 YAM tail light is a direct replacement for your tail light and will not require any modules"

http://www.customdynamics.com/Yamaha_tail_retro.htm

GEN-100-1157YAM - $89.95

 

There are discount codes available on the Internet that give a 5% discount on orders over $150. I've asked them if it is possible to set one up for VentureRiders.org but since there is no "payback" to the site it probably doesn't matter. The code I found that works is "rswarrior". I'll update this if they provide a special one for us.

 

I am not associated with Custom Dynamics and am providing this information for members so they have the details in one thread should they want to upgrade to LED.

 

Free shipping to the U.S.. To Canada only option is UPS Expedited at $32.95 (site says no brokerage fee). I've asked if they will ship USPS to Canada.

 

Another member also mentioned to tell them that the bike has a radio on it so they will apply an RF coating to the wiring. Response from Custom Dynamics (and they have been very responsive!) "If you use the load equalizer there will be no interferance. If you were to use our Signal Stabilizer I would get the RF coating. That will do away with any chances of getting any RF noise"

 

Received the Dynamic Cluster and 100 LED brake light Monday and worked on the install Monday and Tuesday evening.

 

For the installation...

 

Turn signals :

I started with the signal lights first. The Dynamic Cluster has a plug in for where the old bulb used to be but has two wires (running and brake light) that need to be connected. I ran them to the brake light figuring that would be the easiest and closest location.

 

The instructions mention drilling a hole thru the back of the signal housing but I choose to keep it clean and run the wires thru the bracket that attaches the signal housing to the fender... figured I'd follow the same path that the existing signal lights follow.

 

Lets say the second signal light went smoother than the first. There is very little slack in the wires so I removed my trailer receiver and bent the clips back inside the fender to loosen the wire. Unbolted the signal assembly from the fender (bolts are inside the fender) and pulled the bulb socket and rubber boot out... and with moving it around trying to get the cluster wires thru.... the ground wire came off the bottom of the socket. Patched in a little extra wire for slack and soldered it back onto the base.

 

Used a wire hangar to fish the wires thru the bracket and then thru the grommet on the fender. Bolted the bracket back onto the fender . For protection of the wires, I used heat shrink tubing to cover the wires inside the fender to run to the hole/grommet leading to the brake light. Cut a "V" in the tubing to cover the wires going into the signal bracket hole.

 

Running the wires into the brake light was fun. There is a rubber boot inside the fender for the grommet leading to the brake light. Using my expensive tool (coat hangar) I pushed the hangar thru from the brake light housing thru the rubber boot and taped the wires to the hangar and pulled them thru.

 

Connection to the run/brake wires was easy using the supplied connectors (posi-lock). Tested signals and brake/run lights several times thru the steps because of the wire I had to solder.

Yellow wire - brake

Blue wire - running light

 

Used dish soap to coat the rubber boot around the old bulb connector and pushed it back into the signal bracket. Put the covers back onto the signal housing and that was done.

 

100 LED Brake Light

The cluster is mounted on a board with three holes for the cover screws to go thru. Plug in the socket from the light board to the bulb socket, align the screws and put the cover back on. Done.

 

Load Balancer

Because the LED signal lights have lower resistance than incandescent bulbs you need a load balancer/equalizer or the bike thinks a bulb is burned out and they flash quick. I connected mine under the seat by using the supplied connectors (posi-lock) and spliced into the wires leading to the tail lights. The balancer has a connector on the end of the wires that needs to be cut off. Three wires - ground, and two wires that connect to the signal lights.

I have an isolator for my trailer lights (also LED but the isolator doesn't make the lights flash fast). I didn't want to confuse things so I made sure I located the wire leading directly to the rear signal lights.

Left wire - Brown

Right wire - Green

Ground wire - Black

Test the lights... find room for the balancer under the seat... attach seat... test lights ... Done.

 

Results

I already had the trunk wing brake light but replacing the stock brake light and adding brakes/run lights to the signal housing definitely makes the rear of the bike more visble. A lot brighter and more coverage. A very positive upgrade !

Custom Dynamics was good to deal with and shipped the products the same day.

 

On the Custom Dynamics site they show how to tell which bulb you have. Pull one from the signal light and compare it (my first post had the link - http://www.customdynamics.com/bulb_i...ation_help.htm)

 

As for "not DOT approved".... I saw that but figure better to be safer with the brighter lights. As was mentioned, I don't think a cop would be able to say it wasn't DOT approved just by how bright the lights were or that it was a run/brake/turn light in one housing. Doubt they'd really care.

 

Pictures

Two pictures at night - running lights, then with brake on

Daytime picture - brake lights

 

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Edited by Freebird
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