Halogen or sealed beam running lights?

I'm getting some of the stock running lights for my 2006 RSTD. There are two sets of lights for sale. One is sealed beam, the other is Halogen. What are the pros and cons of each? I have the original headlight....but would not hesitate to replace it with some thing better. I'd like the lights to match....

Well they are both Halogen, it's just that in a sealed beam unit, the whole assembly of reflector, filament and glass is the bulb.

There are some very good LED running lights available which might be a decent alternative, and the only real alternative to the stock headlight is a HID conversion, or supplement the High beam with decent HID driving lights.

Well they are both Halogen, it's just that in a sealed beam unit, the whole assembly of reflector, filament and glass is the bulb.

 

There are some very good LED running lights available which might be a decent alternative, and the only real alternative to the stock headlight is a HID conversion, or supplement the High beam with decent HID driving lights.

Any examples of LED running lights? Saw some by Kurakyn that looked nice. but they were a lot pricier....

Any examples of LED running lights? Saw some by Kurakyn that looked nice. but they were a lot pricier....

The Kuryakn are nice ... None of them are cheap, but the prices are coming down.

They are rated for tens of thousands of hours, so they end up being cheap compared with SilverStar Ultra bulbs, for example.

I am currently in a converstion with a fellow in a Delphi board on the driving/passing/fog lights for the light bars. The one bulb is a sealed beam. It is commenly called incandesent. The other bulb is a halogen. It consits of a reflector (looks imlular to the other bulb but is open in rear) and ahalgen bulb that goes in it.

Headlights are a bit trickier. There is the standard bulb (halogen) and then you have different "upgrade" kind of bulbs silver star and a couple others. I am running a Wagner 80w100 bulb which has more light but also draws alot more juice on the circuit. HID would probably be a good look into.

But I haven't heard any first hand reviews.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200407598_200407598?issearch=127757

I am currently in a converstion with a fellow in a Delphi board on the driving/passing/fog lights for the light bars. The one bulb is a sealed beam. It is commenly called incandesent. The other bulb is a halogen. It consits of a reflector (looks imlular to the other bulb but is open in rear) and ahalgen bulb that goes in it.

Headlights are a bit trickier. There is the standard bulb (halogen) and then you have different "upgrade" kind of bulbs silver star and a couple others. I am running a Wagner 80w100 bulb which has more light but also draws alot more juice on the circuit. HID would probably be a good look into.

You could put a relay in and draw headlamp power direct from the battery. When I did this I noticed a gain in light output.

I take off the sealed beam, and install the halogen ones. Huge increase and lower power consumption.

I did a little research on this today as it bugged me. There are some sealed halogen bulbs made. Sorry about that misinformation. But the ones I was interested in have a reflector housing and the bulb is seperate. On the LED question. I have read several posts on here and some other sites that some folks experience radio interfearence when switching to LED passing lamps. There dont seem to be a lot of ryme or reason to it either. Expensive vs economy bulbs.

The Kuryakn are nice ... None of them are cheap, but the prices are coming down.

 

They are rated for tens of thousands of hours, so they end up being cheap compared with SilverStar Ultra bulbs, for example.

I got over 50,000 miles on my SilverStar Ultra, which is probably in excess of 1,000 hours. I think paid $35 for 2 bulbs. It looks like the Kurakyn Phase 6 LED headlamp is around $300. So it seems like I'd need about 17 of these SilverStar Ultras to break even with the Kury LED. I don't think my bike will last 850,000 miles, but I hope so! Even so, 17,000 hours seems like plenty and qualifies for "tens of thousands".

On the other hand, I am looking at the newer Phase 7 headlamp and passing bulbs, so as to recover some watts. I tried HID and it died after a couple hundred miles, so I'm not travelling down that route again.

Dave

I got over 50,000 miles on my SilverStar Ultra, which is probably in excess of 1,000 hours. I think paid $35 for 2 bulbs. It looks like the Kurakyn Phase 6 LED headlamp is around $300. So it seems like I'd need about 17 of these SilverStar Ultras to break even with the Kury LED. I don't think my bike will last 850,000 miles, but I hope so! Even so, 17,000 hours seems like plenty and qualifies for "tens of thousands".

 

On the other hand, I am looking at the newer Phase 7 headlamp and passing bulbs, so as to recover some watts. I tried HID and it died after a couple hundred miles, so I'm not travelling down that route again.

 

Dave

You need better quality HID components.

They are fitted as standard to most high-end cars now, and they don't die after a few hours.

Currently they are the only real answer for motorcyclists who do a lot of night riding, and want to see where they are going. Halogen doesn't even come close, and LED is not there yet.

HID "bulbs" are considerably tougher than halogen, but some kits contain cheap ignitors and ballasts ... they contain cheap bulbs too, the D2S Phillips bulbs are about $50.

But I haven't heard any first hand reviews.

 

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200407598_200407598?issearch=127757

First hand review for these. I run an HID headlight and these LED from northern tool. I first went with these because the OEM spots/driving lights looked yellow once i put the HID in. When I found them and saw they were A LOT cheaper than any other replacement I could find to make the driving and head light match on color spectrum, i bought. Once installed they are much brighter than OEM and have a wider pattern as well. It helps light up the entire rode. I am going into my second season with the LED and third with HID. I totally like the set up.

Only thing that has to be done with the LED is remove it from the rubber housing and cut the wires. Then i put on wire connectors on the ends so that i didn't have to cut the original wiring in the housing. They fit directly in place, nothing else needed. They draw less and with the HID i have cut the draw down a lot. I have changed all my lights on the bike to LED so i def don't have problems when it comes to adding asseccories and heated gear.

That is my $.02.

Never heard of HID till now. What are they? Can I buy a bulb that fits my existing headlight?

Can I buy HID running lights? If I buy the OEM running lights for my 2006 RSTD, can I get HID bulbs? There is a Sealed beam and Halogen version of the OEM running lights....will either of these allow for the HID bulbs?

I do a LOT of night travel and want all the light I can get....without having my brights on.

Steve-O. If you want to do HID in the driving lights then you need to get the NON-sealed beam. HID is (high intensity discharge) it is a buld of GAS not a wire heating up omiting light. The HID upgrade is a plug and play with exsiting types of bulds with a ballast that is the ignitor and power for the bulb. For the head light it is a H4 buld replacement. As for the spots it will depend on the buld style. So it is plug and play but you have to find a place for the ballast. Since I did just my head light there is only one and it is stuck to the inside of my fairing. If you where to do all three you would then have three ballasts to place.

Google search it and you will find many results. Google is your friend.

I'm with the 'just say no to HID' crowd.

Until they come out with a ruggedized unit which includes the full reflector and front glass, I wont be going with another HID Headlight. Driving lites, maybe.

The el-cheapo units that are made for teenagers tuner cars and then the set is split up for motorcycles...these are around $50 or so, are just too unreliable for MY motorcycle.

Besides, I had the problem of ballast reset during starter motor activation, and just wont use a unit that is not specifically made for the physical and electrical environment of a motorcycle.

Anyone else is of course free to test and enjoy the 'bleeding edge' of technology, but I wont use one until they become as reliable as incandecent bulbs.

So that day may never arrive. Several years ago I posted on the LED headlite technology, but for me the light output is still not what I like to see.

In the meantime, I have purchased an aluminum reflector headlamp housing, ceramic connector, remote heavy-duty harness, and 100/55 watt off-road bulb...and will update the forum when its all installed.

Halogen it is!

I don't like being on the bleeding edge when it comes to safety....and lights are for safety. I'll look at upgrading the headlight at some point in time. I upgraded my Honda to SilverStar or something like that and it made a difference. But with the driving lights, I should have plenty of light.

You need better quality HID components.

 

They are fitted as standard to most high-end cars now, and they don't die after a few hours.

 

Currently they are the only real answer for motorcyclists who do a lot of night riding, and want to see where they are going. Halogen doesn't even come close, and LED is not there yet.

 

HID "bulbs" are considerably tougher than halogen, but some kits contain cheap ignitors and ballasts ... they contain cheap bulbs too, the D2S Phillips bulbs are about $50.

I will agree with you. These were the cheap Canadian Cruising units so popular last summer. They weren't even that much brighter than my Ultra bulb.

When I win the lotto, I am replacing my passing lamps with the self-contained units. There is just no place to hide all the HID components on the RSTD, since HID manufacturers insist on such short wires. Between the bulbs and supporting components.

Right now, my headlamp combined with 55w PIAA passing lamps fat wired to the battery are plenty bright. Its like three headlamps. I'm going to 35w passing lamps to save amps.

Dave

I'm with the Kid on these lights. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200407598_200407598?issearch=127757

They are very easy to put in the driving lights buckets and very bright. I put them on last sunday and at night they made a huge differance. Only problem is now my OEM headlight look very dim and yellow, i just got a PIAA powersport bulb and I'll see how that looks.

[ame=http://www.amazon.com/PIAA-70456-Xtreme-White-Anti-vibration/dp/B000TK3U4O/ref=pd_sim_auto_11]Amazon.com: PIAA 70456 Xtreme White Plus H4 Anti-vibration Bulb: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41y1bmKvaJL.@@AMEPARAM@@41y1bmKvaJL[/ame]

If it doesn't do what i want it to, I'll go for the HID.

Hey Kid, do you have the 6000K crystal white HID kit from HID Country?

I have the EuroFX (EFX) low/high HID Kit. Most kits are just low beam with a reg high beam which isnt bright. Mine has a deflector for the high beam which moves and redirects the light.

I went with EFX because there where at the CycleWorld Motorcycle Show and I could see them and how they were made. Also they come with Lifetime Warranty.

Like I said earlier. I have had mine in for almost 3 seasons with no problems. No added switches, just plug n play.

I light up the WHOLE rode at night and the reflective signs come in visual contact much further away.

Maybe I am young and dumb but it has worked for me and I will lead the technology end.

Everyone Ride Safe no matter what light they use. People will still say "I didn't see them" no matter what.

Hello,

In France, I mounted the HID Bi-Xenon H4 / 3 of the 1st generation and 2nd generation without modification of the OEM wiring.

The bulb H4 / 3 is used for passing or road. There is only one filament.C is an electromagnet which made ​​the switch and crossing road. No strings drawn from the battery. The new relay is connected directly to the connection of the old original H4.

In France, the light does not alume with the starter. To the United States, there must be a switch to turn the HID on the way, if not the balast will not like.

The HID consumes 35 W compared to OEM H4. The light output is 3 times more.

Without changing wiring, it is imperative the easy relay.

PRICE 59.00 Euro

http://www.oliverking.fr/kit-moto-h4...BISLIM1AMP.cfm

Chris

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[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cV_aY7Bkp34]VCF Slovaquie 2010 internet - YouTube[/ame]

...i just got a PIAA powersport bulb and I'll see how that looks.

Amazon.com: PIAA 70456 Xtreme White Plus H4 Anti-vibration Bulb: Automotive

If it doesn't do what i want it to, I'll go for the HID.

How is the powersport bulb working?

The HID needs 5 seconds to reach full power. Trade bulbs use two filaments, one for low beam in HID, and another in hallogen for the headlights.

Bulb H4-3 has a single filament that works all the time and has a kit for the low beam and headlight.

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YhtrMPVPypY&feature=related]HID H4 High-Low Moving Bulb - YouTube[/ame]

Here is an article in the Journal of the Venture Club of France, page 22 et 23.

http://manet-fr.com/docs/gazette201201.pdf

Chris

Silverstar ultra in headlight and $14 each sealed 35 W Haolgens from JP Cycle gives me enough light for my purposes. HID could be better but too many issue stories to consider.

How is the powersport bulb working?

The PIAA 70456 is listed 60/55 with 110/100

The PIAA 70476 is listed 60/55 with 130/125

I like the 70476....lights up the road well...has a blue/purple color listed. Might want to read this older thread.....

http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=65604

How is the powersport bulb working?

I'm gonna get it in the bike tomorrow. I'll let you know sunday after i see it at night:happy34: