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Replacing Cassette Player with Equalizer


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Graphic Equalizer in place of Cassette.

 

Submitted by John Richie

 

Most of the credit for this installation process goes to Kevin Wisor who brought up the topic back in Dec 06. I am providing the steps with photos. The 7 band graphic equalizer is the Pyramid Model 403G, $25.00 at www.etronics.com, advertised as 100 watt amp with a 12 db boost for each band. Dimensions are 4.8"W x 4.75"D x 1"H. The new sound is an improvement over factory, especially if you boost all of the bands, but is only for the speakers, not the headset. This setup disables the cassette player and removes the connector for the CD player (attached to cassette circuit board). The equalizer fits perfectly in the original case for the factory cassette player, but does require modifying the face plate to accept the front of the equalizer. Removal of the cassette player also removes the factory AUX plug, so run an extension line from the factory head unit to a new location on the inner fairing. The speakers work both with the power turned on or off for the equalizer. Installation requires tapping into the speaker wiring harness, as the equalizer needs an output source from the factory amplifier. I cut the wires from the front left/right speaker harness, and used as the left and right “output” as shown on the electrical connection diagram. These go to the “input” on the equalizer.

Run new wires to all speakers from the equalizer. Since I could not locate the rear speaker wire in the front fairing harness, I just ran new wires to the rear speaker(s). This disengages the factory fader control on the handlebar remote, but the equalizer has a fader control for the front to rear. The basic installation steps follow, with photos:

 

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Remove (split) the Front Fairing. Remove headlight assembly. Remove the brackets holding the stereo head unit, move head unit to left side (out of the way).

 

Remove the four mounting bolts for the cassette deck, and remove the two screws that hold the cassette face plate to the inner fairing. Unplug AUX line and cassette deck wire connector. Keep the cassette deck front door closed for removal of cassette unit from the inner fairing. Carefully (toward the front of the bike) pull the cassette unit out of the inner fairing.

 

Photo of cassette deck. Cut clear protective tape, remove the two lid screws, and lift the top from the deck. NOTE: Do NOT remove the side screws that hold the door assembly!

 

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Bottom: remove screws, clamps, and remove the cassette works (mounted with four rubber shock mounts).

 

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Pull off the rubber grommet protecting the rear deck wires and reuse when installing the equalizer. Also, I used the connector cap for the CD connector to cap off the original wiring harness connector for the cassette deck.

 

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Measure and cut the face plate of the cassette housing to allow mounting of the equalizer. Carefully cut the plastic face plate with a Dremel.

 

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The equalizer should be pushed into the face plate enough to use the fader and power button, but not too far or the front door will not close properly. The cut area should be made to fit between the top lip and the 2 fairing mount screw holes at the bottom of the cassette plastic face plate. After I did the rough grinding, I carefully used a small file to fine tune the cut area until the equalizer fit snugly in the face plate.

 

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Final mounting of the equalizer in the housing. I did not use the supplied mounting brackets for the equalizer, but instead removed the side screws from the equalizer box, drilled a hole on each side of the cassette housing, and mounted the equalizer with a metric machine screw on each side. The equalizer is held in the front by the plastic face plate and on the sides by the two mounting screws.

 

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Re-use the rubber grommet from the cassette deck wires to mount the wires from the equalizer on the rear slot of the housing. Re attach the top lid to the cassette housing and cover with clear packing tape to protect from water damage. Make sure that the door opens and closes properly.

 

Reinstall the equalizer/cassette housing unit in the inner fairing, and again check the door for smooth operation.

 

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Disconnect the wire to the rear speaker(s) and run a new set under the seats and gas tank to the front fairing. Since I removed the trunk from my RSV, I only use one speaker in the rear, mounted between the bars of the passenger back support.

 

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For those with the trunk, the factory configuration uses only one set of wires for the two rear speakers (mono sound), so now is your chance to run two sets of wires, one to each rear speaker, for true stereo sound in the rear.

 

Hook up all of the wiring for the equalizer using the supplied wiring diagram. Turn on the key, power up the equalizer, and check that all is well.

 

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Re-mount the front fairing and enjoy.

 

Thanks,

 

John Richie

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The stereo should still work, but you would still need to run the AUX connector to a new place on the fairing. Most of the face plate on the cassette box is used to hold the spring loaded door, and for the two inner fairing screws. You can probably do without the two screws, and if you can do without the door, you could cut a pretty large hole for accessories, like a glove box without a door. I think that it looks better with the door though, therefore, the slot would have to be pretty small.

 

J Richie

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Hi John

Nicr Write Up The Eq Install Much Better Then Mine I Also Replaced The Speaker With Mb Quarts Thay Have A 4" Speaker And A Sepret Twtter With Crossovers I Put Four Of Then In There Is A Thread With Photos Of Them Thay Sound Much Better Then Stock.

Kevin Wisor

1999 Rsv

Jax Fl

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